Tractor hibernation

[moosetracks]

Now that cold weather is coming, I don't anticipate more than occasional tractor usage during the really cold months. Are there any special things I should do ? I'm planning on treating my fuel with power service. My tractor is in an unheated shed with no electric (bad tractor mommy). How often should it be started and driven just to keep things operating well? I notice that some bolts are beginning to corrode. Should a light oil be used in places to prevent additional corrosion? Thanks.

Moosetracks

 

[RoyJackson]

Obviously, check your antifreeze!
Make sure the fuel tank is full (no condensation in the tank that way) and you have some type of anti-gelling agent, if the fuel isn't winterized. Also, a stay-dry" additive would be nice...but I never used one.
If your machine has a clutch, block the clutch in the disengaged position (pedal depressed) to prevent seizing the clutch and pressure plates together.

I use GP grease on all the exposed portions of the loader cylinders. Also, it's good to touch up any chipped paint.

The bolts should be cadmium plated to inhibit rust. This is done when the bolt or other fastener is made...you can't do it.


Fortunately, winter is drier then summer...less chance for corrosion.


As far as running..I use mine for snow plowing. Even if it doesn't snow, I will operate it once or twice a month..for about ½ hour or so...

 

[beenthere]

""winter is drier then summer...""
(Indoors when the heat on, that is true).

Winter relative humidity is higher than summer relative humidity (outside that is), as well as the temp. fluctuations may be over a wider range, causing more condensation than summertime. Just a thought to help decide what to do in cold storage.

 

[DanR67]

In regards to Roy's comment about blocking the clutch pedal - my B7610 came with a small wood block with a "V" notched in one side (found it in the small "toolbox" under the seat.)

The owners manual shows how to use this to block the clutch pedal - if you don't have one I can send / attach (later - at work at the moment) a picture - you could make one from a scrap of 2x4 in about 2 minutes! /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

I don't plan on running mine much over the winter either - I have a block heater and she's parked and plugged-in under the rear overhang of my garage - tarped as well for good measure! I'll probably do some greasing of exposed cylinders too. I need to keep the tank full though - good tip!

Dan

 

[ByronBob]

I would run it once a month for 10 minutes if you don't use it. Being in WV I would think snow removal will allow you to use it enough. The battery is the thing I'd worry about. The cold makes them weaker than when warm. Having it sit so long it may not want to start. Running it enough to get warm and charge the battery will keep it fresh.

Do you have a block heater? You may be far enough south not to worry about it. Good advice here to follow from the others.

 

[moosetracks]

Dan,

I have a B7610 also. Would appreciate the picture of the block. I have many 2x4 scraps lying around. I don't have a block heater since there is no electric in my barn.

Would removing the battery and keeping it charged help too? I'm sure they'll be a stretch in Jan/Feb when it will be really cold and I won't want to run it. We don't usually get that much snow and even if I removed it around the house I'd have to plow the county road too cause the state doesn't come out here in the winter. Thanks for all the tips everyone.

Moosetracks

 

[Cliff_Johns]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I would run it once a month for 10 minutes if you don't use it. )</font>

That's interesting. I would have thought 10 minutes would have been just long enough to have drained the battery some by starting it, but not long enough to recharge or to warm up the oil enough to really lubricate everything. If it's cold I would have thought, perhaps a half hour would be more like it.

Am I going over board here?

Cliff

 

[RoyJackson]

"That's interesting. I would have thought 10 minutes would have been just long enough to have drained the battery some by starting it, but not long enough to recharge or to warm up the oil enough to really lubricate everything. If it's cold I would have thought, perhaps a half hour would be more like it."

I agree...10 minutes isn't really long enough, IMHO. If I get the machine out, it idles for at least 5 minutes, then I'll operate it (even if not doing any work) for a total of around 30 minutes.
Short operating times don't get engines warm enough to evaporate any condensation in the exhaust (this is more important for you car, by the way).

So, if the machine is started, it's ran including driving around and exercising the hydraulics, for about 30 minutes.

Anyway, that's what I do...

 

[DanR67]

Moosetracks -

1st picture attached: shows the block with a notch cut into the bottom. The notch is @ 1/4" deep x 3/4 - 1" wide.

 

[DanR67]

moosetracks -

2nd pic attachment - this shows the block installed. This picture shows the block between the frame and the clutch pedal lever directly under where your left foot presses down the clutch pedal.

I think you could also cut a "V" notch in the block of wood - I thought that's what it had but I was mistaken. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif Pretty much anything will work there!

I think I just need to attach something so I don't forget to remove it the next time I drive off! /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

*****

In regards to disconnecting your battery - I used to do this on my (now retired) riding lawnmower - I seem to remember that this helped - could usually start the mower the following season w/o a jump start.

I'm thinking I might install a *battery disconnect switch* - then you don't need any tools - and keeps the battery out of the circuit until you need it.

Hope this helps!

Dan