Tractor hibernation

   / Tractor hibernation #11  
If you remove the battery and bring it in where it's warmer than it's going to work better for you when you go to start it. Like a car when it's really cold. They start hard. I might have understated the time to run for it to warm. The boys here feel 30 mins is better. I won't argue that point as I don't clock the idle time. My point was run it periodically if the battery sits there unused to keep it fresh.
The block heater is a good idea up north where I live. With 100+ inches of snow a year we get more than enough use for the tractor in the winter.
 
   / Tractor hibernation #12  
"Blocking" the clutch seems to be important to Deere too.
My 790 came with a "U" shaped clip that attaches to the clutch pedal and the floorboard.
When the tractor was delivered the dealer really emphasized that I use it if the tractor wasn't going to be used for more that a day or two during the winter.
 
   / Tractor hibernation #13  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( When the tractor was delivered the dealer really emphasized that I use it if the tractor wasn't going to be used for more that a day or two during the winter.
)</font>
i think that it a little overkill, not using the tractor for a day or two should not be enought time to do any damage to ANY of it's components
 
   / Tractor hibernation #14  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( <font color="blue"> i think that it a little overkill, not using the tractor for a day or two should not be enought time to do any damage to ANY of it's components </font> )</font>

I agree.
 
   / Tractor hibernation #15  
" think that it a little overkill, not using the tractor for a day or two should not be enought time to do any damage to ANY of it's components "

So do I.....

I have blocked the clutch on the machines I've owned (including a Porsche I used to store during the winter).

However, I normally just go down and pump the clutch a few times weekly. I think it would take weeks, or even months to rust a clutch/pressure plate together.

Now, my tractor is kept in a garage..
 
   / Tractor hibernation #16  
Batteries tend to slowly discharge themselves, and once disharged, they freeze (cracked case) and/or sulfate quickly. I have found that keeping them charged is much more important than keeping them warm.

Two motorcycles, a boat, and a car that I don't use every winter have taught me that a cheap trickle charger rotated for about a week at a time on each battery saves me buying four new batteries in the spring.

The warm part is helpful if actually starting and using the equipment during the winter.

The other comments about condensation are very true. Outside, here in MN, every morning in the late fall and early spring, you will get a dripping-wet coating of condensation on everything. Especially metal objects like cars, tractors, and other tools that "store" the night-time cold temp's. A simple tarp can help a lot with the condensation.

- Rick
 
   / Tractor hibernation #17  
I agree that it's overkill, but it only takes a couple of minutes.
During the winter, I only use the tractor to clear the drive and our street of snow. Not knowing when it will snow next, I just got in the habit of attaching the clamp when I'm done plowing.
 
   / Tractor hibernation #18  
Yet another reason to buy a Hydro huh? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
 
   / Tractor hibernation #19  
I had a car with aftermarket pressure plate and high metalic clutch disc. It would rust together if left out in the rain overnight. No big deal, you just started it in gear and jerked it a couple times with the accelerator while pushing the clutch peddle.
 
   / Tractor hibernation #20  
True, but then my left leg wouldn't get any exercise. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 

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