Tractor in Cold/Snow

scott_in_ny · Mar 11, 2005

( I've never used my block heater, and my L48 has started with no problem all winter. It stays outside and has been covered with snow half of the winter - I wonder, are block heaters a scam, or am I just blessed with a tough engine? /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif )

Whatever.......................if y'all don't want to use a block heater or coolant warmer or whatever you want to call them that is ok with me......i personally could not care....it is your machine......

i choose to use one. you can choose not to use one....but if y'all think that a block heater serves no purpose......then so be it. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

DanR67 · Mar 11, 2005

(

as far as letting a diesel sit for 15 minutes at idle......

this is something i do not think is best....
)

The general consensus seems to be: let it warm up a bit - then go to work (a bit easy at first) - so I guess I'm *guilty* of going *too easy* - especially given that the engine is already warm & toasty thanks to the heater. I'll try to keep my initial idling to @ 5 mins.

Note: I read numerours posts here at TBN on pros / cons of engine speeds (both extended idling and running at PTO speed) during the break-in period - the "bedding of the piston rings" etc. - so I tried to avoid prolongued idling during the first 20 hrs or so of operation.

(
Also use the block heater.... plenty of people say "well mine starts just fine w/o one" yea it may start but it will start easier and smoother after using the block heater...........
AND THAT IS A FACT.
)

I agree with Scott - my engine starts smoothly and is without the usual "rattling" etc. that comes with starting a cold diesel. As I do not put many hours on during the winter - only have run it a few hours every 2-3 weeks - I like the extra peace of mind the heater brings. If this was a daily "working tractor" - then I would think differently, as the engine would be well lubricated from constant use.

While many users' long-term experience shows that engine durability does not suffer from the cold starts - common sense tells me that a warmer engine should see *less* wear at start-up because the oil should flow / lubricate better at a higher initial temperature. Maybe *common sense* doesn't apply?? /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

I re-checked my Operators' Manual (see attachment) regarding cold starting / warm-up - it advises 5 minutes at "half rated rpm" (for me @ 1300 rpm) - so I've been a bit low on the throttle. But the roughly 15 minutes hydraulic warm-up time during cold temperature seems roughly in-line with the table given....

I'll bet this debate will continue for years here at TBN - sort of like the eternal "Over or Under" toilet paper question.. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Dan

granite · Mar 11, 2005

Thanks for the info. We have more snow on the way tonight, so I'm going to read all the posts over again and try and see what the temps are tomorrow.

We just bought 2 more International 6-wheel dump trucks (w/block heaters). We don't have enough outlets to plug them in, but after talking to the dealer he said that if we're keeping them in the garage, we shouldn't worry about them starting or long-term wear. Sometimes I forget that the tractor's diesel engine works the same way as the dump and pick-ups, but the more opinions you get, the better you are.

Dargo · Mar 11, 2005

What? You mean you warm up your engine? Man, time is money; money is time. I don't have time to baby sit my tractor. When that puppy fires over, hammer down; drive it like I stole it. Heck, it will warm up faster that way! /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif If it can't take that, I don't need it. That's the beauty of something that is fuel injected; no waste of time to warm up the engine like was required with the old carb engines.

Not. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif With the expense of these things, I do follow fairly close the instructions provided in my owners manual. I do whatever I can to make sure the money I invest in my tractor lasts as long as possible.

Boondox · Mar 15, 2005

( I've never used my block heater, and my L48 has started with no problem all winter. It stays outside and has been covered with snow half of the winter - I wonder, are block heaters a scam, or am I just blessed with a tough engine? /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif )

I had one and never used it the first winter. My L3010 started and ran just fine. Then I plugged it in just once. In the morning, at minus 30, I couldn't believe how much better the engine started. None of those worrisome sounds of mechanical protest. Been using it ever since.

Pete

Philcrafts · Mar 15, 2005

A quick comment about the block heater from up here in Alberta where they are not usually an option for a vehicle or a tractor. The primary use for them is to enable starts in very cold weather, say -20 dgrees F and below. But the other benefit is that they provide for immediate lubrication throughout the engine on those cold days when the engine oil has thickened up like tar. Believe me, they are not a scam, but can add life to your engine if used during cold weather.

Egon · Mar 16, 2005

( yes i know diesel fuel is not actually burned,lack of a better word)
)

Actually the fuel does burn in a controlled manner as dictated by the design of the combustion chamber.

Egon /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Egon · Mar 16, 2005

Phil:

I spent most of my life in Alberta. Chances of starting a diesel get pretty iffy at temps that are near -40 C. Block heaters are not an option as you stated.

The high speed idle for diesel trucks is very common on working trucks in cold climates. It keeps the engine warmer and thus the workers can warm up when they get in.

One can buy adapters that go on the block heater extension cord that will turn on at a preset temperature.

Egon /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

BGL990 · Mar 16, 2005

Hey, another Alberta guy!! There are a couple of us around here. I'm east of Edmonton, near Elk Island Park. Where are you?

(sorry for the temporary thread diversion ...)

Bass · Mar 16, 2005

I crank it over and set it at 1/3 the working rpm to warm up until the needle moves up. That could be 5 minutes or 10 minutes, depending on how cold it is. Then I run it up to working rpm and slowly work and rework the bucket, and FEL to get the fluids flowing.