Tractor not starting

[ROUSTABOUT]

Time to remove the pump and check the timing. If fuel is being sent to the injectors as your test indicates to continue cranking will load the cylinders with fuel which could result in hydro lock or piston wall damage. One test you can do is remove the number one injector, re-attach the fuel line and use vice grip plier and attach the injector to a bucket and see if the pump has sufficient pressure to fire the injector.

I know nothing about how to time the pump on your Case so I called a OLD Diesel head.

He advised going from memory the pump is timed as a previous poster stated. He also advised the unit is not lock timed like new engines are what ever that means. He advised there are two marks under the pomp timing cover with two screws in it. He advised these marks should be aligned before the pump is removed. If this was not done and the pump is being reinstalled to align the shat end dot with the rotor drive groove dot and install the pump. He also advised the timing needs to be set after installing the pump and the timing should be 6 degrees BTDC not TDC. He also advise there should be a label on the valve cover giving the correct timing information BTDC or TDC and the timing number.

He also advised he would need his old workshop notes which he no longer had before advising on how to time the engine.

If it's cold enough for snow, and he ain't got heat...them old tractors won't hit. You can wear your starter out and charge batteries all day, they ain't touching off. Now, he could drain the water and fill it with hot water from the house, see what it does. Out of the thousands of tractors, or diesels, never had a pump problem. And I only use ether to seat beads on tires. I don't put it in engines.

 

[Gator6x4]

If it's cold enough for snow, and he ain't got heat...them old tractors won't hit. You can wear your starter out and charge batteries all day, they ain't touching off. Now, he could drain the water and fill it with hot water from the house, see what it does. Out of the thousands of tractors, or diesels, never had a pump problem. And I only use ether to seat beads on tires. I don't put it in engines.

The original poster, posted in post number 28 he had remove the pump, aligned the dots, ETC and everything is fine.

“Finally!!! got it started, followed eveyones suggestions and lined up all marks , made sure dots lined up, got it all lined up at 8degrees BFTD and bled injectors and she started and is running!!! Thanks to all!!!”

 

[Lstlk2hi]

I have a Case 480 LL tractor that won't start. Started great for 30 years now can't get to fire, even with either! Have replaced injectors
and rubber seals throughout the fuel system. Roosemaster pump has been rebuilt. cranks over great but won't fire. Bled air out of system.
Am at a loss on what I can do to get started.

Start with the closest place from the fuel pump you can loosen a bolt or nut then crank it. Once you get fuel spurts tighten that back up then go nearest the cylinders you can find another nut/bold to loosen and crank again until fuel spurts. If you get no fuel from the start you may need to disconnect fuel line from tank and blow air into the tank to A) make sure there is no clog in the line. Once you are satisfied no clogs follow the fuel line to the next spot you can open that section of line and do the same. Something I should have mentioned first is to check and make sure the valve below the tank is in the ON position. Mine is a 580CK extendahoe and yours could be different. Another thing to check is the filter. On mine there are 2 6" diameter casings under the tractor, one for fuel and one for hydraulic fluid. You might want to pull the fuel filter and clean it. On an old (50s) Cat D6 orchard track layer I pulled 10 pounds of goo from the fuel filter that surprised me it ran at all. Hope this or other posts get it fired up. The image is how not to park your tractor when scraping roads. Thank God I managed to stall it before the roll down the hillside started.