Tractor paint?

[Kenfyoozed]

I am looking to make my old MF135 look better. I have read many post about paints, some good some bad. I have painted a work truck years ago, and It looked good for what I used. i was young and used no type of respirator! After reading some of these post I am glad I didnt severly hurt my self. What I am looking for is a paint thats easy to apply, looks good, wears well, and wont fade to quickly, and wont kill me as I apply it. I will be improvising a leanto on my barn as a paint booth.

So what types of paint should I consider? Or am I asking for to much? I would like it to have some shine to it .

 

[/pine]

What I am looking for is a paint thats easy to apply, looks good, wears well, and wont fade to quickly

as important as a quality paint is...the preparation is more important... a poor quality paint will hold up better on a properly prepared surface than a high quality paint on a poorly prepared surface...

unfortunately preparing the surface is usually a nasty, boring and tedious job (to do properly)...

after all the dirt,grease, rust/scale etc. etc.. is removed and the surface is cleaned with a solvent compatible with the intended paint... ALWAYS use a "tack rag" just prior to applying the paint to get the best possible application...

 

[ray66v]

What I am looking for is a paint thats easy to apply, looks good, wears well, and wont fade to quickly, and wont kill me as I apply it./QUOTE]

After 30 spending years in auto refinishing, I am also looking for this. Let me know if you find it.

There really is no holy grail here.

There are no totally safe paint products for spraying. Wear the prescribed safety products, and I can assure you that one job won't kill you.

Start with how much you want to spend on materials, and work from there.

 

[Kenfyoozed]

Why is it I am always searching for something that doesnt exist?

I would like to spend as little as possible, since this is a tractor, but still want it look good for a while. I read that the paints from TSC fade quickley, but the price seems great. I figure I wouldnt mide spending 200$ if I did it myself. What type of paint systems should I be looking into? Laquers, Enamels, Acrylics, or what?

I will use the proper equipment , and the tedious boring prep, well I like the tedious work. Keeps the mind sharp and the devil at bay, and I need all the help there I can get. Plus I am planning ahead for next winter.

 

[/pine]

Imron® Polyurethane Enamels | Dupont Performance Coatings - appp20.asp.dupont.com

may be overkill for a tractor...
This is one of the best paints (IMRON) on the market...it is pricey and wearing a top of the line (particle) respirator is paramount... (one whiff will kill you)

 

[mrutkaus]

imron...well, i've had one whiff and i

 

[Farmwithjunk]

The paints CAN be harmfull. The hardeners will flat put the hurt on you. I've been exposed to icocyanite hardeners ONE TIME and have perminent effects. (symptoms of asthma) The hardener I used was the very same stuff TSC sells. PAY HEED TO WARNINGS ON LABELS.... You can absorb it through your skin as well as breathing it. Wear protective clothing and use a fresh air breathing system. You may NOT be proned to problems, but is it worth the risk to cook your lungs over one paint job?

I'm not at all familiar with them, but I've been hearing about auto paint systems that are WATER BORNE paints. I'd find a good auto finish supplier and start asking questions.

Another option.....Tractor chassis can EASILY be painted with rattle cans and still get a very good job. Then take sheet metal to an auto body shop and have them shoot the "slick stuff".

 

[ray66v]

The paints CAN be harmfull. The hardeners will flat put the hurt on you. I've been exposed to icocyanite hardeners ONE TIME and have perminent effects. (symptoms of asthma)

This is possible, but it is extremely rare. In 30 years I have only seen 1 guy who had an allergic reaction to iso, and that took multiple exposures with no respirator to bring on. I have seen lots of guys spray it for decades some with no protection what so ever. Everyone reacts differently.

I'm not at all familiar with them, but I've been hearing about auto paint systems that are WATER BORNE paints. I'd find a good auto finish supplier and start asking questions.

I am familiar with them, and have used them, they are only currently available, to my knowledge, as basecoats for clearcoat systems. The clear is still solvent based. and that is where all the bad stuff is. They also require special equipment that is very expensive.

Then take sheet metal to an auto body shop and have them shoot the "slick stuff".

If he is capable enough, to prep it well enough, they can pretty much shoot it, this can be a fair priced option, depending on if the shop is slow enough to want the job.

A vocational school doing the job, is also a possible option if there is one nearby.

 

[ray66v]

Why is it I am always searching for something that doesnt exist?

I would like to spend as little as possible, since this is a tractor, but still want it look good for a while. I read that the paints from TSC fade quickley, but the price seems great. I figure I wouldnt mide spending 200$ if I did it myself. What type of paint systems should I be looking into? Laquers, Enamels, Acrylics, or what?

I will use the proper equipment , and the tedious boring prep, well I like the tedious work. Keeps the mind sharp and the devil at bay, and I need all the help there I can get. Plus I am planning ahead for next winter.

Go to the nearest auto paint supplier and inquire if they have a "low end" automotive product. and go with that. Some only sell the low end stuff anymore because the top end stuff is ridiculously expensive.

It is all pretty much urethane enamels now. With a low end product, you could get by with $200 depending on the color.

 

[Kenfyoozed]

I saw that Duplicolor has a paint called Paint shop. It comes premixed and is a laquer system. Seems pretty easy, but its 25$ a quart. The colors are not a correct match for MF, but close enough I think. Although 25$ a Qt seems expensive for a Laquer system.

How much unthinned paint would I need? 2 quarts of red(rouge red), 1 Gallon of dark metallic grey(flint grey), and 2 quarts of metallic silver( corporate wheel grey). Does this seem right? More or Less?

I want to shoot ALL the paint. I just need to becareful.

What is the "pecking order" of paint? Low quality to best quality? Easy to shoot to harder?