pvcman1
Member
Hi,was looking at buying a disc mower untill i found out it recomended a min of a 50hp tractor mine been 43hp.would 7hp make alot of difference?,it would be cutting 4 foot tall grass on flat land.Thanks.
Tractor power using disc mowers
- Thread starter pvcman1
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Northcountryboy
Bronze Member
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- Jul 14, 2014
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- North country NY
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- New Holland T4.75 John Deere 950 Ferris IS2500Z H7320 BR7050
A drum mower would work.
Northcountryboy
Bronze Member
- Joined
- Jul 14, 2014
- Messages
- 53
- Location
- North country NY
- Tractor
- New Holland T4.75 John Deere 950 Ferris IS2500Z H7320 BR7050
HEC
Veteran Member
They rate equipment for a reason , it would be good if you could try one out to see . It may mean you would only have to go a little slower then a tractor with more HP. .A dealer might give you some good info. also from their experience with that piece of equipment .
bigbull338
Elite Member
you can get a 6ft disc mower that should workk on your tractor.now in tall thick grass you may have to cut in low 2 with the rpms at 2000 or a tad higher.
jagyzf
Gold Member
Starting a disc mower is hard. I use a 9 1/2 foot pull type MoCo and you do notice starting it and any incline makes the tractor work. I mow at 6 mph with a 95 hp tractor.
One more note on disc mowers, I haven't looked at the specs in a while. At one time Deere under the rated HP recommeneded x HP + cab. About once a year the cab takes a hit from rocks, usually from hitting a woodchuck mound hidden in the grass. I know other members here have said that they have even had windows broken.
I wouldn't mow without either a cab, or maybe a sheet of polycarbonate between me and the mower. Possible with a 3 point mounted machine any rocks would end up going either forward to the tire would block them. I would still not want to run one with an open tractor.
Here is another thread on disc mowers and the very 1st post brings up that the some OEM's want a cab tractor.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/75746-questions-disk-mowers.html
Yes I have a complete curtain on the front of the machine and all guards in place. Rocks still find their way out of the machine.
One more note on disc mowers, I haven't looked at the specs in a while. At one time Deere under the rated HP recommeneded x HP + cab. About once a year the cab takes a hit from rocks, usually from hitting a woodchuck mound hidden in the grass. I know other members here have said that they have even had windows broken.
I wouldn't mow without either a cab, or maybe a sheet of polycarbonate between me and the mower. Possible with a 3 point mounted machine any rocks would end up going either forward to the tire would block them. I would still not want to run one with an open tractor.
Here is another thread on disc mowers and the very 1st post brings up that the some OEM's want a cab tractor.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/75746-questions-disk-mowers.html
Yes I have a complete curtain on the front of the machine and all guards in place. Rocks still find their way out of the machine.
jagyzf
Gold Member
This from CaseIH has the cab recommended as the 1st footnote on the spec's page for both 3pt and pulled units.
http://www.caseih.com/en_us/Product...Pull-Type_and_Mounted_Brochure_CIH7180803.pdf
This has come up on other forums I visit also.
Disc mowers and open cab tractors - Tractor Talk - HayTalk - Hay & Forage Community
http://www.caseih.com/en_us/Product...Pull-Type_and_Mounted_Brochure_CIH7180803.pdf
This has come up on other forums I visit also.
Disc mowers and open cab tractors - Tractor Talk - HayTalk - Hay & Forage Community
Last edited:
5030
Epic Contributor
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- Feb 21, 2003
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- SE Michigan in the middle of nowhere
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- Kubota M9000 HDCC3 M9000 HDC
My rule of thumb is 7 pto horsepower for each head on flat ground. It takes a bit to get one going, even my 100 pto tractor balks a bit on startup (blows a little smoke). Always a cab tractor. an open station is an invitation to get hit by tocks, wood or whatever that the discs throw forward.
I actually have 2 mowers, a sickle bar conditioner and a disc bine. I use the sickle on fields that I'm not sure of whats under the hay (like a new customer). I never run the disc machine on new fields.
Typically, I can mow twice as fast with a disc compared to a sickle and plugging in tall, damp forage isn't an issue, however, the sickle produces a better close cut on 2nd and 3rd cuts versus the disc.
If fuel is an issue, always run a sickle. Disc machines suck fuel, much like round balers versus small square bailers.
Finally, if in doubt about any poly twine left in a field (from missed bales, run a sickle. Poly twine is a quick death for the upper seals on a disc machine.
I actually have 2 mowers, a sickle bar conditioner and a disc bine. I use the sickle on fields that I'm not sure of whats under the hay (like a new customer). I never run the disc machine on new fields.
Typically, I can mow twice as fast with a disc compared to a sickle and plugging in tall, damp forage isn't an issue, however, the sickle produces a better close cut on 2nd and 3rd cuts versus the disc.
If fuel is an issue, always run a sickle. Disc machines suck fuel, much like round balers versus small square bailers.
Finally, if in doubt about any poly twine left in a field (from missed bales, run a sickle. Poly twine is a quick death for the upper seals on a disc machine.
Farmer495
Veteran Member
Find a disk mower rated for 40 PTO, 5 disk gear drive or 6 disk shaft drive.
I would want full power for 4 foot high grass. I run 5 disk gear drive on 42 PTO HP, I have to drop a gear in the stuff that is thick and taller than the 14.9-28 rear tires... Tractor plays with it otherwise and I am sure it would run 6 disk gear drive in most of my cutting.
I would want full power for 4 foot high grass. I run 5 disk gear drive on 42 PTO HP, I have to drop a gear in the stuff that is thick and taller than the 14.9-28 rear tires... Tractor plays with it otherwise and I am sure it would run 6 disk gear drive in most of my cutting.