LittleBill21
Elite Member
a voltmeter will easily determine a bad connection if current can be pulled through it on a starting circuit. Look up how to perform a voltage drop test
Tractor quit and won't start
- Thread starter BakoJ
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CADplans
Elite Member
True, if you have long enough leads, and long enough arms to hold the leads in place,, while you use your third arm to turn the key to get the current pulled,, and be able to see the meter from where you are safely cranking the tractor while sitting in the operators seat,,
LittleBill21
Elite Member
or you buy this and do it from the tractor seat with the meter next to you...
Avenger
Veteran Member
As others have mentioned, check for bad ground. That could be the reason it wont start. However, that's probably not the reason it died. The oil does concern me, check the level of both engine oil and hydraulic. If the oil pressure dropped, because of a leak, then the engine will save itself by shutting down. If you think its hydraulic oil, that shouldnt shut down the tractor, but is cause for concern since you need to find the leak anyway.
Since its cold, could be a dead battery. Jump it with a strong battery, like from a pickup. If it starts, then its probably the battery. I just had to do this about a month or so ago.
When it shut down, did it do anything like idle down, loop (rev up and down), anything weird like that? Or was is idling and suddenly stopped?
The smoke at startup is normal, unless it's excessive.
Since its cold, could be a dead battery. Jump it with a strong battery, like from a pickup. If it starts, then its probably the battery. I just had to do this about a month or so ago.
When it shut down, did it do anything like idle down, loop (rev up and down), anything weird like that? Or was is idling and suddenly stopped?
The smoke at startup is normal, unless it's excessive.
OP
BakoJ
Member
- Joined
- Dec 31, 2021
- Messages
- 46
- Tractor
- 2021 LS MT2 25S
The engine just stopped. It is full of brand new fuel. I'm heading out to check everything else now.
OP
BakoJ
Member
- Joined
- Dec 31, 2021
- Messages
- 46
- Tractor
- 2021 LS MT2 25S
Update: Checked everything I could. Every lever, switch, sensor, fluid level was checked. Battery connections were tight and showed 13.6 Volts on the multimeter.
The dash display and none of the warning/idiot lights display except for the parking brake indicator does light and the parking brake warning sounds. I'm sure it is an electrical or fuse problem, I just haven't located the fuses yet.
I called and asked to speak to a service tech at the dealership and was told one would call me back. Sadly the dealership is giving me the runaround. The sales rep told me they have a mobile tech. The service manager said they don't. And now it looks like service is going to be handled by another of their dealerships (not a big deal, equi-distant from my dealership).
Looks like I'll be loading it up and taking it over tomorrow.
The dash display and none of the warning/idiot lights display except for the parking brake indicator does light and the parking brake warning sounds. I'm sure it is an electrical or fuse problem, I just haven't located the fuses yet.
I called and asked to speak to a service tech at the dealership and was told one would call me back. Sadly the dealership is giving me the runaround. The sales rep told me they have a mobile tech. The service manager said they don't. And now it looks like service is going to be handled by another of their dealerships (not a big deal, equi-distant from my dealership).
Looks like I'll be loading it up and taking it over tomorrow.
Last edited:
Avenger
Veteran Member
You didnt put a load meter on the battery? Amps vs volts. You need both.
Did you try jumping it, like I suggested?
Did you try jumping it, like I suggested?
OP
BakoJ
Member
- Joined
- Dec 31, 2021
- Messages
- 46
- Tractor
- 2021 LS MT2 25S
Yes, tried jumping it and no change. It won't even crank and the display is blank and will not light. I can't tell if this model has an ECM. It looks like it may. Does anyone know for sure?
ZetorSteve
Silver Member
Did you check all the grounds to see if they are painted over? Whenever I get a car from a body shop that has wonky electrical issues I usually find a chassis ground that has no or poor ground due to paint between the connection. Take off any chassis ground you find check to make sure there is no paint between the connection and the chassis.
Did anybody explain how to do a voltage drop test on the wires? With all wires hooked up properly, take one of the meter leads and put it on the ground post of the battery. Directly on the post, not the terminal. Take the other lead and put it on the chassis ground. Have someone crank the engine while you watch the meter. If it is any more that .25v you have excessive resistance in that wire or the connections. Clean them to bare metal and recheck. Do the same on the positive post to the big power cable on the starter. If all checks ok then the problem is elsewhere.
Even if it doesn't crank right now you need to put the key in crank for the test to work fully. This test validates how well electricity will flow. Poor or no flow will give you problems. The higher the voltage reading during a voltage drop test, the higher resistance, or worst the problem.
Egon
Epic Contributor
If the tractor was running well and then just stopped I’d suspect a fuel solenoid issue or internal breakage of some kind that seized the motor. For the motor try cranking it with a direct connection from battery to starter. On the solenoid it’s all about following all circuits and safety switches, all control levers in the proper place, a solenoid that is good and there may be thermistor in circuit holding the solenoid open that has failed. The problem could also be with the battery. In some cases jumping the battery will not help.