Tractor Rebuild: 1st Step - ID

[Robert_in_NY]

Your welcome. It gives me something to do while I am sitting around the house.

Thanks also for the well wishes on my recovery. I broke my back on October 15th and for the most part I think I am doing quite well. I am able to do just about everything I could before I was hurt except lift anything heavy and work and a couple other things.

 

[WayneB]

Well, this is just what you might end up with: Look at the 1953 SC W/F

TractorLinks.com - Antique Tractor Links Directory

Now here is a bunch of old tractor albums full of wonderful pictures

PictureTrail

Case World

TractorLinks.com - Antique Tractor Links Directory

 

[cjcocn]

WayneB

Thanks for the links. The look of that '53 SC is my ultimate goal.

It will get light out here within the hour, so I am getting ready to head out there with my air compressor and pump up the flat tire. After that I will hook it up to the truck and see if I can tow it home.

How do I get this thing in neutral so that I can tow it?

Thanks

 

[joe48]

CJ
I worked for a Case dealer when I was a teenager in the sixties. I had to do everything from pushing a broom in the shop to manning the parts counter when no one else was around.
The other guys have given you lots of good info and places to look for help, parts etc. There are lots of parts still available for those models, just have to track them down thru clubs and specialists, also magazines like Antique Tractor or Aged Iron are good spots for that.
Your tractor is an 'S" standard model, the serial no. will give you year and model, when you get a cross reference.
Those machines were heavy built rugged and simple. Couple of things to look for is pull the inspection covers off trans and rear end and look at the condition of the gears and especially the rear chain drive sprockets. The amount of wear on the sprocket teeth will give a good indication of hours and how hard tractor was used. Compare the wear side of tooth to the slack side which should be like new so you can judge by the cupping on the wear side what percentage of life is used up. Hope you understand my explanation.
If your lucky you might not have to do anything except change trans oil.
The engines in these things were built like tanks, so unless they got water in them you may not need to do too much there
I could tell by the picture it has a WICO magneto on it, don't even fool around just buy a rebuilt one and new wires plugs etc. That was one thing we constantly rebuilt in the shop were magnetos. Also the carb is probably a MARVEL-SCHEBLER, a dinosauer by todays standards but very rugged, either rebuild it or better buy a reman, you'll have less troubles. Good Luck, Joe

 

[Robert_in_NY]

The gear shift lever should have a neutral in it, it appears the lever is up so push it down and if it can slide side to side it should be in neutral. If not, you have a Ford so yank that thing home

 

[joe48]

CJ
I forgot the trans in that is a 4 speed , I think the pattern is a standard H ,but don'remember for sure. Like robert said should be able to find nuetral and gear posistions by just rowing lever around. Also if I remember the shift pattern is cast into the floor plate near the shifter. Joe

 

[cjcocn]

Well, it took a couple of tries, but it's home!

The first time I went out there was a bust as the air compressor couplers froze up by the time I got out there. I had to come back home and warm the air compressor motor back up before I could replace the air that I released trying to get the frozen couplers to work.

For the second trip out there I had the hose and tire inflater already hooked up. When I got out there, first thing I did was pump some air into the flat tire. The rubber is cracked in some places, but it held air.

I couldn't figure out where neutral was. I tried different configurations, but each time I tried to tow the tractor the rear wheels wouldn't turn. I don't know if it was the cold, some rust inside the gear case, or a combination of both. Finally I did what Robert suggested and just yanked it out of there and pulled it home.

The ditch was fun and the Case ended up making a new trail through the cattails as I had to put a few extra tow straps on for a while so I could cross the ditch with my truck before the straps tightened up. It didn't want to climb the ditch with that length of tow strap (60') so I took two off and was back down to one tow strap. That made the angle sharp enough so that the truck was able to make the tractor climb out of the ditch.

Now I have to see if I can make enough room in my garage so that I can drag it in there, let it warm up a bit, and start pulling covers off to see some of the internals. I figure that I can drag it to the garage door, but after that I may have to rig something up so that I can push it in without doing any damage to my truck or the tractor.

I took my camera with me, but I didn't have anyone to take pics and once I got going I didn't stop to take any pics myself. Sorry!

I am not sure how long it will take me to clear out the garage and drag the tractor in there, but once I do I will take many pics. I figure that I will have no choice then (I am bad at not taking pics when I should) since I will asking tons of questions and will need those pics to show you what I am talking about.

Thanks again for all your help and I will start a new thread once I have the tractor inside my garage.

 

[Robert_in_NY]

A 2.5" piece of pipe with flat stock welded on both ends (pipe only needs to be 4-5' long). Weld the flat stock so it can have holes blown thru it so you can drop a drawpin thru either end. Then pin the tractor to the truck and push it in. I hope that made sense but basically it is a simple tow/push bar. Just use a heavy enough pipe so it doesn't bend up if you put too much force on it. I will try to fashion up a drawing of what I mean as I use this all the time to push loaded hay wagons around while someone steers the tounge in the barn.

 

[bindian]

With the information you have provided so far the only way anyone can help you is when you post a picture of post some part numbers. There are a lot of us guys that have plenty of information to help id your tractor once we get some new information. Each tractor has serial numbers in different places so it is hard to say look here or here. Do you have an idea what color the tractor and wheels are?

Good call Robert.
hugs, Brandi

 

[BobG_in_VA]

I've be "listening" to your thread up until now. If its as cold as I think it is where you are and that Case has been sitting out as long as it has,,,,I'm of the opinion that water has gotten into the trans case over time (and yes it will get in there) and has frozen. Hence the rear wheels won't turn when it seems to be in neutral. Once you get it under cover, find the trans drain plug, and get the old stuff out. Also let is set for a week that way. If you have a heater of some type (even a lit bucket of charcoal briquetts ) that you can put under the trans for a while will help if you have ice in there. Just my thoughts today....BobG in VA