Tractor rookie with a 580ck

   / Tractor rookie with a 580ck #11  
Those vent filters can get pretty crumbly, so be careful. Years ago, i bought 6 off ebay for the price of one through Case. Looks to be about $10 through NAPA. I can't recall if the o-ring was included with the new hyd. filter or not, when I bought it. Worked on too much stuff since then.
 
   / Tractor rookie with a 580ck
  • Thread Starter
#12  
Yikes. Well supposedly my local napa has the filter in stock for $22. I'll look up the vent and see if the might have that too.

My pressure gauge kit came with 11 adapters and not a single one is big enough for anything on the tractor. So scratch reading the pressure, but that's fine, I'll return it and figure out something else there.
 
   / Tractor rookie with a 580ck #13  
   / Tractor rookie with a 580ck
  • Thread Starter
#14  
Well, I got the hydraulic filter from Napa, but they didn't have the vent filter, so I ordered one online. Haven't messed with the hydraulics anymore but I did fire it up and finally got to use it a bit this weekend for the first time.

Idles pretty good now. Used the loader and some rope to pull down some dangerously hanging limbs from some trees. That was fun, but realized I have almost no brakes. Had to drop the loader a couple times to stop. Another thing to add to the list. Haha.

And my new set of manuals came in. WAAAAYY more helpful with the correct parts book and the operators manual.
 
   / Tractor rookie with a 580ck #15  
How much pedal do you have..?? Good pedal, but like stepping on aplum, but no braking action, or do pedals go nearly to the floor..?? If pedals go to the floor, the master cylinders need brake fluid. With that being said, if they are low, there's a good chance brake lines need replaced, because they are leaking,or bad wheel cylinders. There are two seperate types of lines, going to each wheel cylinder. The first part out of the M/C's are steel lines, that have numerousbends in them. The second short one is just before the wheel cylinder, and is part rubber flex line. Case did have these preformed 10 years ago, but were $75 ea. I'm sure they are more now, but you can check. I bought a brake line flaring tool from Eastwood Eastwood Brake Line Flaring Tool Kit for Professionals and bulk NiCopp line, and assorted fittings from Advance Auto Parts, and made my own. https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...-16-x-25-cnc-325/16190029-P?searchTerm=NiCopp. The good news, they now make NiCopp lines in various length https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...-cn-372-5-cn-372/22190271-P?searchTerm=NiCopp, you can bend your own, and save buying the tool. You can use regular steel line, but the NiCopp bends so much easier.

At the time, no one offered the short flex line. Since you now have your parts manual, with part number, you can do a Google search, and check. At that time, I lucked out and found one on ebay for $10. The other I had to buy through a dealer, but discovered buying the same part through a Case/IH Agriculture dealer, it was 10% less. Seems they were like $25+ at the time, through an AG dealer. I always do a Google search on part numbers, and through Ebay, you never know what someone has on there.

If you have plenty of pedal, but no braking action, more then likely the bull pinion cage seal is out, and has the brake disc's soaked with oil. Easiest way to check that, is to look below the brake housings for oil (90 wt) dripping from them. Gear oil has a distinct smell, so you know for sure if that is the problem. Since you have a service manual, it should show you the step by step procedure, on how to replace the seals. These are a common seal, and can be bought through a bearing supply, and/or probably NAPA. 10 yearsago, they were like $15 ea. through Motion Industries, maybe a buck or two more through NAPA, and WAY more then that through Case. Again, run the part number through Case Construction, Case/IH, Google, and Ebay. Takes a few minutes, but can save you some serious bucks.

If in fact, the seals are leaking, and you need to replace the seals, you'll need to drain the differential. I don't know if the diffy has a dip stick on it to check the fluid level or not. If it looks milky, you ought to do a transmission flush. Drain the diffy, I let mine drain over night. Replace the plug, then fill with 2,gallons of diesel fuel, and 2, gallons of ATF, and a quart, or two, of rubbing alcohol. 90% alcohol is best if you can find it. Tough to find since this Covid thing, and mostly 70% in pints now. Drive it around for 5-10 minutes to get things sloshed around. ATF is high detergent, and willclean things up. Diesel will thin it out, has some lube properties, and wash contaminants to the bottom. The rubbing alcohol will absorb any moisture left in there, and will take it out when you drain it. I just did this to my little IH 140 tractor a few months ago. One of the pictures below shows how well it cleaned things up. Maybe pour another gallon or two of diesel though to flush anything laying in the bottom, and wash it out.

In the service manual, it should tell you to only do one side at a time, to prevent the internal differential parts from dropping. The small tapered head screws that hold thebull pinion shaft housing, which holds the seal to be replaced, at least on the old 310B, had like #1 Phillips head screws. I replaced them with hex type Gr. 5 (Allen wrench) from Fastenal, which I think come in packs of 10. Seems like they are only torqued to around 10-15 inch pounds.

The bearing cage housing with new seal installed, needs to be slipped over the splined brake shaft. In your manual, it SHOULD tell you, you need some sort of shim stock to put around the shaft, to keep inverting the lip on the seal. That one at the time stumped me, as I had notin come to mind to use. I posed that question, possibly here, or on another forum. A retired mechanic came to my rescue. Start at the back side of the shaft, beyond the splineswhere the smooth part of the shaft is, but outside where the seal rides that shaft, wrap the shaftwith electrical tape, and wrap outwards, beyond the end of the shaft, leaving about a 1" tail. Coat the tape with oil, then carefully slip the housing in over the shaft, turning it slightly back and forth. Wrapping from inwards, to outwards, leaves the lips of the tape to the inside, so the lip on the seal basically jumps over those lips, and does not catch. There should be shims behind those housings, so don't forget to put those on first. When the housing is in place, and torqued, grab the tape by the tail, and it will spiral right off. I put pictures of replacing a seal in one of my garden tractors below, to give you an idea, of how it works. I've probably installed 25-30 seals using this method, and have had 100% success. I buy contractor packsof electrical tape from Harbor Freight, or anywhere that has cheaper tape, and keep it in the tool box for jobs like this.

Now for the brake disc's themselves. They wiill more than likely be in decent shape, other than being oil soaked. You can take a simple propane torch, and literally boil the oil out of them. The brake linings are bonded to the steel center, and can take that type of heat. I was reluctant to try it, but after talking to more than several local Case owners, they told me they all did it. That leaking oil seal is just the nature of the beast, and they will all eventually do it.

I hung my brake disc's on a steel rod outsode the shop, and heated in acircular motion for probably 10 minutes each, until the oil stopped coming out. A full circle to get it heated up, then half circle at the top, working the oil towards the bottom. Just remember you need to do both sides. Once I got the oil out, I laid it off to the side to cool, and started on another one. For final cleanup, I sprayed it with brake cleaner, then buffed them with a gasket removal Roloc disc, but some finer grit sandpaper, like 180 grit will do the same. Just buff that waxy looking surface off. Or, just buy a new set of brake disc's. Mine would lock the wheels up, after using the above, "boil the oil out" method, so I was a pretty happy camper. Do whatever floats your boat...

If you would happen to need brake parts, from master cylinders, wheel cylinders, or any parts, like springs, expander balls for the braking mechanism, definitely check this place out, after looking at prices elsewhere. Remanufactured Transmissions, Torque Converters, Engines - Joseph Industries The last time I ordered any parts from there, when entering part numbers, it was kind of hit,and miss onwhat they have listed. But, a call to the 1-800 number got me everything I needed, in short order. The woman I spke with knew her stuff on parts. Just make sure you have your part numbers in front of you, when inquiring. I have noidea where you arelocated, but they are located in Streetsborough, Ohio, about 100 miles North of me. If I called,and placed an order before 9:30-10:00 am, UPS was here with them the next day.

Hope you didn't fall asleep reading all of the above, just trying to help determine what may be the problem with your brakes, and what to expect. Since you have the manuals, it should make it a lot easier, to see what I tried to explain. And, all repairs can be done pretty much with a basic tool set. Tools such decent torque wrench's are a good investment, both in. lb. and ft. lb. if you're going to be working on machinery.
 

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   / Tractor rookie with a 580ck
  • Thread Starter
#16  
Right on. Didn't put me to sleep. I enjoy the detail of your explanations.

I'll check again in the morning, but for travel, the pedals travel freely about 4 inches, then hard. And I noticed only the right side actually brakes, but barely.

I'm assuming 4 inches of travel is probably "the floor" as these dont really reach the floor. So maybe filling/checking the fluid and lines is my first step.

Tool-wise, fortunately I was an autobody/Collision repair tech for 15 years at my dads (but really my whole life) and working as a "mechanic" for the last two years. So I have pretty much all the tools, just tractors and hydraulics are slightly different and unfamiliar animals to me. But taking apart stuff.... that's almost universal. Haha.
 
   / Tractor rookie with a 580ck #17  
My 480's pedals would literally go clear to the floor board, due to broken brake lines.

Should be a panel, if still there to remove to fill M/C's, above the dash. The PO of my 480 cut an access hole through the side of the dash for easier access. I'd suggest an auto. trans. fill funnel, to fill from the top.

Bleeder valve is on the wheel cylinder, if you need to bleed the system. Brake adjusting nut is also located on the wheel cylinder. My 480 came with auto-adjusters on the adjusting wheels, but were all but rusted away. The new wheel cylinder kits came with new adjusters.

If fluid brings the pedal back up, but brakes only kinda' slow/stop you, that's a sure sign the disc's are oil soaked.

Since you were in auto body repair's, here's a recipe for a penetrating oil that works better than anything I've found on the shelf, including KROIL. Mix Acetone, and ATF 50/50. Put it in something like a dish detergent bottle, so the Acetone doesn't evaporate. Great for rusty, and painted over threads. The combination will dissolve rust, and the Acetone will soften old paint. Brush the threads, if accessable, it makes it a lot easier to disassemble things. It will separate in the bottle after setting a while, but a quick shake will mix it up. It works so well, I buy Acetone by the gllon at big box stores, and ATF in the 2gallon jug at Rural King, so it's always on hand. And, always buy no less than a dozen of the 6"-8" small stainless steel bristle wire brushes at Flea Markets to get in tight places. I have/work on a lot of old stuff, from garden tractors, up to my IH 656, and 480 hoe, so that mix is used a lot. And, never-seize just about everything when going back together.
 
   / Tractor rookie with a 580ck
  • Thread Starter
#18  
Right on, thank you! I probably wont get to try that until maybe the weekend. Hopefully. I'll update if or when I get a chance to. I'll probably check on how far my pedal actually goes before I head off to work right now.
 
   / Tractor rookie with a 580ck
  • Thread Starter
#19  
Well, I haven't messed with it anymore since....

Had a bunch of other stuff going on, including one of our horses and goat getting into a fight.

That's been fun to deal with..... horse kicked of a horn, ripping off a huge chunk of the goats skull, horn completely intact, and the goat stabbing the horse three times with the other horn. Both are alive but what a mess.
 
   / Tractor rookie with a 580ck #20  
OUCH..!! I had the sweetest Tenn. Walker mare kick 2 of my Nubian goats, resulting in fatal injuries. Not sure what her problem was with them, the other horses got along with them well. Bet that Vet bill would have bought a few parts..!! All part of having a few critters around.
 

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