Tractor Sizing tractor sizing question

[jmh1783]

I need some expertise. I'm looking at a property with about 11 acres of open mostly flat land and I'm trying to figure out what tractor to buy. I don't want to get into a brand discussion. I have narrowed it down to three choices (all hydros):

Tractor A: larger frame, 35 hp, 4000lbs
Tractor B: smaller frame, 3000lbs, 40 hp (6 inches narrower, 12 inches shorter), $200 less than above
Tractor C: same frame as A, 4000lbs, 45 hp, $2K more
***weights are without the loader

The open space is pasture (I don't intend to have animals) but is also exposed to the road. I intend to mow some of it regularly like a lawn and the rest monthly. I want to buy a flail mower to handle both the tall and short grass. No thick stuff to deal with. My other uses for the tractor are: plowing in winter, rototilling, fencing, planting an orchard, wood chipper, wood splitter, driveway maintenance, lots of tree planting over the course of years, other one-off projects.

Here's my real question/concern: Most flail mowers are rated for at least 30 PTO HP. Tractor A has 29 PTO HP. I currently have an underpowered zero turn mower, I'd prefer to not repeat the problem when buying a tractor. Tractor B is smaller and lighter but with more PTO HP. It would be more maneaverable for mowing, easier on the lawn and getting into the woods on the property. With ~35 PTO HP it is up above the minimum, but not by much. Tractor C has lots of PTO HP but is it too much tractor? It is no larger than Tractor A but would consume more fuel doing the same work.

Any thoughts would be appreciated!

 

[ustmd]

Those are all lots of tractor (and $$$) for mowing. Any reason you are wanting to use a fail mower vs a bush hog?

We maintain 30 acre of similar land (horse pasture) with 27hp and a bush hog. I have a finish mower that I have used 4 times in 8 years.

 

[jmh1783]

The reason I was looking at a flail mower is I'm not sure of what split I'm going to have between field and lawn. I figured I'd buy one flail instead of a finish mower and a rotary cutter. Also the flail mowers seem to chop up the grass better. Would you use a finish mower on grass you cut once a month?

 

[TheMadOne]

For the job you outline, and using only the choices presented, I'd go with B. It'd be the better mower, and has more than enough HP to run the flail mower you're looking at.

Going outside of your guidelines, I'd get a bush hog and a finish mower, rather than a single flail mower and expecting it to do a good job on a lawn. Or, wait and see how tall the grass gets in a month. Finish mowers should be fine for up to about a foot or so, as long as it doesn't have to battle stumps and rocks.

 

[jmh1783]

Good point. I was hoping not to buy two units. Also a consideration it throwing stones. The driveway is gravel and pretty thick. There is a lot of road frontage that needs mowed like a lawn which is a concern for projectiles.

 

[nybirdman]

Looks like tractor B will suit your needs;a flail type mower will require more maintenance but sounds like the right tool for the job.

 

[jeff9366]

I recommend a Bucket Spade for orchard and tree planting.

LINK: Tractor and Skidsteer bucket spade shovel

 

[Gary Fowler]

I recommend a Bucket Spade for orchard and tree planting.

LINK: Tractor and Skidsteer bucket spade shovel

That is probably OK for your sandy loam soil, but I sure wouldn't use it at my place, at least not with it attached to the FEL bucket like that. My brother in law had a hay spear like that is it sure would bend the lip on the FEL bucket. We ordered a quick attach plate from EA and then mounted a rear hay spear on it and it made for much heavier lifts. I think I would do the same for you spade. I thing the QA plate was less than $150 but was well worth the effort for modifying the hay spear.

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

Will be very easy to find a good used brush hog and finish mower for less than the new price of a flail. Arround here there aren't a ton of used flail mowers so they are relatively more expensive (plus a greater used risk IMHO).

Get a quick hitch or extendable 3pt lower arms and switching implements is easy.

 

[jmh1783]

Thanks for the advice. I'll buy new. I'm the guy who buys a used something-or-other for $50 and then has to spend $150 fixing it.