Traction Tractor stalls going uphill but works fine on flat and downhill

[bearcity]

I think you need to check your compression. You're most likely not generating the HP that you should generate. The altitude may contribute to that but I suspect a more serious problem. There are basically only four things that I can think of ---- lack of fuel, lack of air, low compression or a hydrostatic transmission problem. I don't see that you've changed the hydraulic fluid/filters??

How many hours on this tractor?? Do you have any noticeable "blow by" when the tractor is running?

I'm afraid that I'm not much help --------------

Thanks! Any info is helpful. I'm hoping somebody here have the same tractor and share some hands-on experience.

Tractor currently has about 190 hours. It does blow some black smoke during initial start up for 30 seconds or so. After that, it seem to run very smooth. No, I did not change hydraulic fluid/filter yet. I've used the tractor for about 40 hours. I don't know if the hydraulic fluid been changed or not. Can old fluid cause this problem? The same fluid for the loader the 3pt lift right? They seem to work fine.

I've never worked on a diesel engine. How do you check compression? Is it similar to a gas engine through the sparkplug port?

 

[k0ua]

Thanks! Any info is helpful. I'm hope somebody here have the same tractor and share some hands-on experience.

Tractor currently have about 190 hours. It does blow some black smoke during initial start up for 30 seconds or so. After that, it seem to run very smooth. No, I did not change hydraulic fluid/filter yet. I've used the tractor for about 40 hours. I don't know if the hydraulic fluid been changed or not. Can old fluid cause this problem? The same fluid for the loader the 3pt lift right? They seem to work fine.

I've never worked on a diesel engine. How do you check compression? Is it similar to a gas engine through the sparkplug port?

I believe you remove the fuel injector nozzle and measure thru that hole after you shut off the fuel , crank the engine for 15 seconds . I think you are going to have a really hard time finding the sparkplugs

 

[bearcity]

My manual says to replace transmission oil and clean the filter at 150 hours. So, I guess my tractor is over due for transmission oil change. Is this the same as hydraulic fluid? How do you "clean" the filter? Can anyone point me to a thread or any existing info on how to do transmission oil / hydraulic fluid change on a MF 1433 or equivalent Challenger MT265B tractor? thanks.

 

[k0ua]

My manual says to replace transmission oil and clean the filter at 150 hours. So, I guess my tractor is over due for transmission oil change. Is this the same as hydraulic fluid? How do you "clean" the filter? Can anyone point me to a thread or any existing info on how to do transmission oil / hydraulic fluid change on a MF 1433 or equivalent Challenger MT265B tractor? thanks.

All of the tractors I have owned have had a replaceable hydraulic filter. Yes the hydraulic fluid and the transmission fluid are one in the same. What did you manual show about cleaning the filter? Is is a screen you remove? It should have shown some pictures or drawings I would think. To do a hydraulic fluid change, typically they will have several drain plugs, a main drain plug and usually some on the final drive cases on the rear axle near each rear tire. Usually the front axle requires a change at the same time. Be sure to look in the manual for the recomended fluids for each. The front axle is likely different, and is not a part of the common sump. Since this is a Hydrostat tractor it is likely to have a hydrostat filter that needs changing also.

 

[bearcity]

I should have read the manual more carefully. It does provide instructions on how to clean the filter. I'm adding to this thread so it might help someone with the same tractor in the future.



Hopefully this could solve the problem...

 

[oldpilgrim]

I'm betting on 'altitude sickness'.

 

[k0ua]

I'm betting on 'altitude sickness'.

yeah, the Hydraulic fluid and filter should be done, but I am betting it won't fix this problem..

 

[bruceatlam]

I would like to see the compression numbers ---- should be in range of 450 psi. Lowest acceptable is probably somewhere around 350 psi. Just guessing based on other diesel engines. I don't think that it's just the altitude ---

 

[PILOON]

With 190 hours, unless totally abused, I have to believe that some techniques need to be learned as other than altitude effects that tractor should perform fairly well.
I am a gear tractor owner and needed to learn and adapt to hydrostatic techniques.
I for one would suggest lower gear selection and more go peddle/RPMS as the solution.
RPMs won't hurt the tractor but lugging will.
High gear and lugging will merely over heat the oil with negative effect.
If low gear and high RPM does the job, then go for it.
1st and 2nd are work gears with 3rd a travel gear (on flats).
Forget compression testing as you don't see blue smoke which would indicate oil burning with poor compression from bad rings/valves.
Puffs at start up are normal.

 

[k0ua]

With 190 hours, unless totally abused, I have to believe that some techniques need to be learned as other than altitude effects that tractor should perform fairly well.
I am a gear tractor owner and needed to learn and adapt to hydrostatic techniques.
I for one would suggest lower gear selection and LESS go peddle/RPMS as the solution.
RPMs won't hurt the tractor but lugging will.
High gear and lugging will merely over heat the oil with negative effect.
If low gear and high RPM does the job, then go for it.
1st and 2nd are work gears with 3rd a travel gear (on flats).
Forget compression testing as you don't see blue smoke which would indicate oil burning with poor compression from bad rings/valves.
Puffs at start up are normal.

made one change in your post..^