tractor suppily weder

[yomax4]

Saying you bought a cheapo welder doesnt tell anybody diddly squat. You could at least give the brand and size of the welder. I also suggest you save your money on the cheater lens. I have one in my hood and dont like it. I always have to take my glasses off to use it. I would buy some cheap reading glasses at wallyworld, or the corner drugstore. that way when you take the welding hood off, your not looking for your regular glasses before picking up a hammer to mash your finger with. Done that a time or two.

I also went away from the cheater lens. They never seem to be the correct distance from the eye to the work. Reading glasses stay put pretty well and give better peripheral vision in ackward weld situations.

 

[Jeepnford]

I also went away from the cheater lens. They never seem to be the correct distance from the eye to the work. Reading glasses stay put pretty well and give better peripheral vision in ackward weld situations.

Safety glasses that were also cheaters would be ideal. I use the cheater in my hood with safety glasses on so I'm not always changing them. The hood cheater works O.K for me.

 

[swines]

I also suggest you save your money on the cheater lens. I have one in my hood and dont like it. I always have to take my glasses off to use it.

I also went away from the cheater lens. They never seem to be the correct distance from the eye to the work. Reading glasses stay put pretty well and give better peripheral vision in ackward weld situations.

A cheater lens is not one magnification. They come in a range from 1.00 to 2.50. Just like cheap reading glasses, you have to try them out until you find the correct magnification for your specific needs.

Luckily, they're inexpensive - under $4.00 at full retail. So it's not like you're spending anymore money than you would on cheap reading glasses to find the correction you need.

I have a 1.75 lens in my hood and it works fine for me. I can't use reading glasses as my corrective lenses are tri-focal lenses that have an astigmatism correction as well as near and far correction.

For a lot of people like me - the cheater lens is the only solution to the problem of having magnification with a welding helmet.

 

[Bandit2026]

Hey Muddstopper Tractor supply only has one el cheepo as far as the cheater lens goes probably wouldn't work with my try-focal glasses, something to do with agent orange. Have to wear those puppies all the time I will probably go without the cheater for a while as I'm the only one I have to satisfy. Thanks to all those that replied.

 

[shadetree]

Did you find and read the comments on TSC website for the el cheepo welder? A couple of them sounded like they could help you learn how to use that 'puppy'. You've already got it you may as well learn how to use it.

 

[arrow]

Hey Muddstopper Tractor supply only has one el cheepo as far as the cheater lens goes probably wouldn't work with my try-focal glasses, something to do with agent orange. Have to wear those puppies all the time I will probably go without the cheater for a while as I'm the only one I have to satisfy. Thanks to all those that replied.

Ok you made me look. The "El Cheapo" was less than $150. Those Forney welders look interesting. Wonder where they're made.

 

[Bandit2026]

Probably same place your Mahindra was!

 

[arrow]

Probably same place your Mahindra was!

Japan?

 

[Big Barn]

Ok you made me look. The "El Cheapo" was less than $150. Those Forney welders look interesting. Wonder where they're made.

FORNEY is a an American company based in Fort Collins Colorado, although both of mine were made in Saskatchewan.

I have a couple of their stick welders from the 1960's. They came with carbon arc torches, soldering irons and battery charger attachments.





The migs they sell today may be made in Italy or??

Terry

 

[Texasmark]

I bought their Farmhand 85 as my first MIG. Tried .035 initially as I read up on it and all the reports said use the larger diameter wire when working on thicker material. Well it was too large and I had problems.

I went down to .030 and had very favorable results even up to ⅜ on ⅜ material. I just made a puddle and kept increasing it till it got to the scab plate. Once I had a big bubble of molten steel, it wasn't a problem to walk the bead down the interface. Worked super on purlins.