Tractor-Towable LARGE Dump Trailer

   / Tractor-Towable LARGE Dump Trailer #71  
Does anyone know of an alternative to the scotch lock and the crimp connectors? Either one seems to have problems if it's in the weather. I've used dielectric grease and wrapped them with tape to keep moisture out and they still go bad eventually.

Even the shrink tube doesn't seem guaranteed to keep moisture out long term.

Is there anything used in the aircraft industry that's waterproof? Are crimp connectors used in aircraft work?
 
   / Tractor-Towable LARGE Dump Trailer #72  
Many companies make a crimp type barrel connector that has "shrink tube' material which, when properly heated and shrunk, seals the connection from the elements. Before I use any shrink tube type of product I cover the connection or wire ends with silicoe grase to help keep the connection dry.
You could go one step further and use the type of connector used in under ground wiring for automatic irrigation systems. It has a small tube containing a water proof grease that the connection is placed into and then capped before the wires are buried.
3M also has a very sticky rubberized product that comes in rolls and is cut to size then placed over the connection.
If there is room and time I crimp on the uncovered barrel connectors then solder. I then coat with silicone grease and then install a quality shrink tube, if the connection may be subject to wear I put another shrink tube over the first.
Bill
 
   / Tractor-Towable LARGE Dump Trailer #73  
Bird, Gordon...
Thanks for the info. At the site Bird posted with the Tekonsha controllers they listed a wiring connector for different trucks. They appear to have a plug on one end and bare/stripped wires on the other. Could you fill me in on where the wires and plug have to be connected?
I have a 6-way plug already mounted on the truck that I use for my other trailers...would the brake controller connect to this recepticle?
You guys, and TBN is/are fantastic!
 
   / Tractor-Towable LARGE Dump Trailer #74  
Jim, unfortunately (or maybe I should say fortunately/w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif), a lot of my experience is dated. I never had one of those wiring harnesses; had to just run the wires to where they were needed myself. If I were going to do it now, I'd have to order one of those harnesses and see how it worked. Like Gordon said, the controller should have 4 wires; (1) ground, (2) hot wire when the key is on, (3) tapped into brake light, and (4) back to the plug connector on the rear of the vehicle (and therefore on to the brakes on the trailer).

<font color=blue>I have a 6-way plug already mounted on the truck that I use for my other trailers...would the brake controller connect to this recepticle?</font color=blue>

Yes, assuming it really is a 6 prong plug (and all the ones I recall on the vehicle were); you know they make some "adapters" for 4 wire trailers that have what looks like a round 6 prong connector, but not all the holes have a metal contact in them. So, if you already have the other wires hooked up properly to that 6 prong plug, then the contact that isn't currently being used will be the one for the brakes. There is, of course, a "standard" sequence or arrangement for which wires go to which contact, but I'd have to look at the instructions to remember what order it is now.

Gordon has not only probably done a lot more of this than I have, but also more recently, so maybe he'll clarify, confirm, or correct this for us./w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif
 
   / Tractor-Towable LARGE Dump Trailer #75  
Bird,
The 6-way I has does have the brake contact in the system. I have an adapter for hooking up the flat, 4-wire plugs so common on some trailers....so I guess plug/recepticle wise I'm all set.
I am wondering about the wiring harness. I wonder if the plug end hooks to the brake controller....and the wires to the truck....or if newer trucks are already set-up with a connector, presumably so you don't have to drill through the firewall etc. Just plugging in the harness to the truck wiring system takes care of all that. Perhaps the instructions that come with the parts explain...very clearly I'd hope.
 
   / Tractor-Towable LARGE Dump Trailer #77  
Jim

Yes, many of the newer trucks (mid 90's) do have a wire run for this. Some have a whole plug in setup ready to go, some just deadend the brake feed wire up under the dash - check owners or shop manual.

Although it goes against the spirit of the "male do it yourselfer", and although I've done a number of installations myself - I'm gonna pay for the next one to be put in for me. I don't twist under the dash and work upside down as well as I used to, and just don't have as much time to fix my inevitable bad splice or poor ground.
 
   / Tractor-Towable LARGE Dump Trailer #78  
As was stated on some of the newer trucks with the trailer towing package its already wired. With the plug you plug into the trucks harness and still have to wire the brake controller. With the harness it's only 4 butt connectors.

If your truck wasn't prewired then you have to run a line back to the rear of the truck from the controller. That is of course after you run 12 volt feed to it from the battery and tie into the brake pedal switch.

Most controllers come with some pretty good pictures. Once you get a controller and if your stumped just post again and I'll try to help. Or if you have any other questions before then Just ask.

Gordon
 
   / Tractor-Towable LARGE Dump Trailer #79  
West Marine sells adhesive lined heat shrink butt splices, packaged by Ancor. Also available from McMaster Carr at like half the price but in larger quanities. I've never seen one of these go bad. Crimps should be done with a ratchet tool, not with one of the models made of 2 pieces of ~ 3/16 metal riveted together. I use a $200 unit from T&B, but a $20 hamfest special is almost as good.

Either source also has 3 to 1 adhesive lined heat shrink tubing, which will insulate other splices. 3 to 1 means it will shrink to a third of the original diameter.

Pat
 
   / Tractor-Towable LARGE Dump Trailer #80  
Dang for my T&B crimpers I only paid about $45. but they don't ratchet. But my larger T&B crimpers for battery cables really hurt when I bought them.

But yes when it comes to tools you get what you pay for.
Gordon
 

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