Tractor Under Load

[bikerzing]

I just noticed today as I was moving residual snow filled with gravel back onto the driveway that the tractor seems to run "strange" under load. It almost sounds like the choke is open, but I made sure it was pushed all the way in. As you can tell, I am not much of grease monkey, but willing to jump in when I have to. So I have a 3-cylinder gas John Deere 1020. It has no problem idling at 500rpm or at 2500rpm. But as soon as I start doing bucket or back blade work it sputters.

This just got me thinking about the hydraulic fluid. I have two small leaks, one under the tractor at the hydraulic connections and a second at the bucket cylinder. Could that be caused by low hydraulic fluid? I never did check that and the tractor has been sitting idle for about a month.

 

[Egon]

Is the fuel system clean with no water and good filters? Can carberator jets be adjusted?

 

[Jerry/MT]

Forget about the hydraulic leaks causing the problem unless they are some how getting into the carb intake.

It doesn't take much fuel flow for low or high idle but it does as you increase the load. Make sure you have adequate fuel delivery from the tank outlet to the carb fuel bowl. There is a tank strainer or maybe a sediment bowl so check them for clogging (crud, ice if the temperature below freezing). Make sure the fuel line is not kinked and if there is a screen in the carb inlet elbow, check that. If that checks out you may want to consider checking the carb fuel bowl for water, ice and/or crud. Finally, the main jet maybe clogged.

 

[Shaneard]

Sounds like it's starving for fuel, it shouldn't have anything to do with your hydraulics. Clean the carb and put some fresh gas in it.

 

[Jimmy in NC]

Before I tore the carb off for a new condition.. I'd add some seafoam and ride it around a bit. A small bit of water can cause the lean running condition and sea foam can move it out of there. I would also find the main jet, and open it a quarter turn.


It's a $7.00 try vs. a kit and lots of time.

 

[Old Guy in Tenn]

Fuel trouble is likely, especially this time of year, but it might be air. When it sputters, what color is the exhaust? When under load, it needs more fuel AND more air. If the air cleaner is plugged, it is effectively choked when you want more air than it can supply, and would likely make the exhaust dark. Check the air cleaner, too. Creatures seem to like them for making nests and storing food.

If the air supply is clear, maybe check the governor (if it has one) while checking the other fuel stuff. If that linkage is sticky it may not be able to add enough fuel when the engine slows.

- John

 

[Briar Hill Brittanys]

When I first got my '66 1020, it did the same thing. On the carb fuel inlet there's a screen that can get clogged, and mine was. I also drained the tank and blew out the lines on either side of the lift pump. A local NAPA store had a rebuild kit for the carb, so I did that as well. Probably the biggest culprit was the dirty inlet filter, but the carb didn't suffer from the rebuild. It's worked great since.

I do have some worn NLA parts on the governor that cause slow throttle response. It picks the load up fine, no sputtering, just a little sloow on the pick-up.

HTH Mark

 

[bikerzing]

Going to try seafoam first. My fuel pump doesn't have a screen. After doing a little digging, it looks like they must have changed versions of fuel pumps on these and got rid of the fuel pump that uses a bowl and screen. If the seafoam doesn't work, I will disassemble the carb. Lord knows when the last time that thing has been disassembled. I will have to look for a rebuild kit.

 

[RNeumann]

All good info posted. My tractor manual recommends changing the fuel filter when you notice a loss of power......it's not hours based.

 

[bikerzing]

I dug into my service manual and found there is a strainer assembly at the inlet elbow of the carb. There is no fuel filter.

 

[ericm979]

Check the strainer.
If it's dirty, take the carb off and clean the strainer and carb out. Small passages in the carb may be clogged with gunk. I use a can of carb cleaner with the little red spray tube to jet out the passages. Carb cleaner also dissolves gum and varnish. It's tough on skin too, so minimize exposure.

If it were mine I'd put a clear inline fuel filter in the fuel line. They're cheap and will catch crud before it reaches the carb.

Also check the air filter (I think someone else mentioned that). Feeling like it is running rich would indicate either too much fuel or not enough air. You can get too much fuel if the float is stuck or the needle is not seating fully. It's often difficult to tell if it's running lean or rich. A handy quick test is to turn on the choke partially or fully- if it makes things worse it was rich, if it makes it better it was lean.

 

[bikerzing]

When installing a fuel filter, do I have to worry about it adding additional pressure drop to the fuel line? Also, my 1020 has an oil bath air cleaner, so no filter to clean. Lastly, pulling the choke definitely makes things worse so it is running rich. Thanks for the tip.

 

[PILOON]

When installing a fuel filter, do I have to worry about it adding additional pressure drop to the fuel line? Also, my 1020 has an oil bath air cleaner, so no filter to clean. Lastly, pulling the choke definitely makes things worse so it is running rich. Thanks for the tip.

I'd say no* as I did that exact same thing and have been running like that for the last 4 years.
I simply cut the fuel line and added the filter.
I also converted my small fuel filter bowl into a separator like device by adding a small drain valve at the bottom. (my problem was that no shops carried the special filter elements for it)
I now simply drain crud and any water from the bowl 'quick drain' and the inline filter lasts forever it seems.
Note that I use a standard inline 'gas' filter as sold by NAPA as IMHO the filter knows not the difference between fuel or gas.

* 3cyl Mitsubishi 20 hp engine

 

[ericm979]

I've never noticed a change when adding a filter to gravity feed motorcycle or lawn equipment fuel system. If it has a fuel pump it's even less likely to cause a problem. Of course you want a filter that will flow enough fuel for your application, but unless you step down a size from the fuel line size that's unlikely to happen.

I'd at least open up the air filter and look. Could be a mouse in there, sludgy oil, or who knows. Another quick test is to remove the filter housing lid or the filter so the carb breathes air that bypasses the filter. You don't want to run it like that for long but if it runs significantly better then the filter system is probably the problem.

I've never had a vehicle with an oil bath filter so I had to go reading. This article Yesterday's Tractors - Oil Bath Air Filters is a good explanation. Seems that they need very frequent cleaning, and the correct weight of oil.

 

[bikerzing]

Here's an update. I did as Jimmy in NC suggested and ran Seafoam through. It cleared it right up. It's funny, I remember my grandfather always giving away cans of heat. He swore by the stuff and used it regularly in his old Farmall. I just love his "rules of thumb" as he would call them.