Tractor Sizing TRACTOR WEIGHT as ONE (1) CRITERION in TRACTOR SELECTION

   / TRACTOR WEIGHT as ONE (1) CRITERION in TRACTOR SELECTION #51  
I have hundreds of acres yet I get plenty done with my L2500 series Kubota Tractor. I never see myself getting a bigger tractor.

Bigger is not always better.

1. My Grandfather had a Ford 900, so the implements that we have, are sized for that. While I have the land base to justify a bigger tractor, it would cost me so much money to replace all the different implements that I have, that a bigger tractor would be cost-prohibitive. The tractor is only part of the equation, the implements it pushes or tows is what really makes the tractor versatile. A smaller tractor with more implements is much more productive then a bigger tractor with less implements.


2. The heavier a tractor is, the bigger it has to be or it will break. Our Ford 900 was a heavy tractor, and constantly broke. My Kubota on the other hand, if I hook onto something it cannot handle, it just breaks traction and spins with no damage done. At that point it is just prudent to stop, and figure a different way to make something work.

3. I look at a tractor as being a Leatherman. It is my swiss army knife of my farm, where I can do 90% of my work, but it does not do it all. When I need to clear land, or dig endlessly in my gravel pit...I just RENT specific equipment that can do the job better. The cost of renting, to do specific tasks, is very cost effective over maintaining and owning bigger equipment that seldom gets used.

4. Brains win over brawn every time. I had a guy with a 60 hp Kubota ask me how I ever could log with my 2500 series Kubota tractor since it was so small. Well logging is about traction, not size, and my winch (which he did not have) has 100% traction all the time, my tires...any tires...do not. Again, this goes back to having the right implements on the tractor, to do the most with the tractor at hand. In short, in logging, a winch is half the tractor. I can winch around rocks, stumps, up hillsides, etc. I can put 150 feet of 3/8 cable anywhere...my tractor I cannot.

5. Slow and steady wins the race! We got a $9000 grant to build a heavy haul road across our farm. That required 350 cubic yards of gravel to surface the road, yet a contractor quoted me a bill of $7000 to haul in gravel from my pit a quarter mile away. As I told the wife, we have the gravel, we just have to move it, but I only have a 1 cubic yard dump trailer. That would be 350 trips, way too much....or is it? The truth was, if we hauled 10 loads per day, in 35 days we would have hauled 350 cubic yards, and that is just what we did. Last year I moved 700 cubic yards over the course of the summer. A person can do a lot with small equipment as long as they are consistent.

6. Sizing up a tractor is not some profound equation. The USDA says to be efficient, a person has to double in horsepower. It does not make sense for me to do so, but if I was, I know it only makes sense for me to go from 27 hp to a 60 hp tractor. It would NOT make sense for me to jump up to a 40 hp tractor; the capacity is just not there. A skilled tractor operator with a small tractor can work circles around an unskilled tractor operator who has a bigger one. A person can never use their check book to pay their way out of operating skill.

Conclusion: I think people buy too big of a tractor most of the time. We call them "Kubota Farmers" because they buy 60 HP tractors and have only 5 acres of land. I think it is better to have a properly sized tractor for 90% of the work needing to be done, and rent for the 10% that cannot not, then to have too big of a tractor 90% of the time.

I know a guy that was going to buy a great big tractor so that when his wood pellets came, he could unload 1 ton pallets. That is stupid. That only happens 1 day out of the year, why buy a great big tractor for 1 day, when the tractor would be too big for 364 other days? Just split the load in half, and then unload the pellets, and save yourself a lot of money.
 
   / TRACTOR WEIGHT as ONE (1) CRITERION in TRACTOR SELECTION #53  
I'm not happy with the 2nd sentence in the first paragraph, let alone that part.

It is all nonsense. Buy the power you need and the best tire style to fit the soil/surface conditions then add enough weight to make it work.
6 pages of blather summarized in one sentence.
 
   / TRACTOR WEIGHT as ONE (1) CRITERION in TRACTOR SELECTION #54  
After putting 70 hrs on my L3301 while operating in 40 acres of heavy pine and clearing a 3/4 mile walking trail, I wish the salesman would have stressed ground clearance with the tractor purchase. I really needed an MX tractor for extra ground clearance and protection of fluid filters. I ruined two hydraulic filters because running over obstacles I couldn't see.

Other than that I'm happy with the work my L3301 and implements.
 
   / TRACTOR WEIGHT as ONE (1) CRITERION in TRACTOR SELECTION #55  
A little disappointed you write throughout your reply about size/dimensions rather than tractor weight. Not quite sure you really get weight yet. Especially the importance of weight as the key specification for new tractor researchers.

I write about size and dimension because it is the variable that does not change. Weight is another matter entirely. It would be foolish to buy a tractor based upon weight because it can and should be changed depending upon the work at hand.

A tractor owner can buy wheel weights, have fluid filled tires, add weight to the front, or add counterweight. I do not like fluid-filled tires, but if I am loading gravel in my gravel pit, I might throw on my snowblower since it adds a ton of rear weight, and really allows me to dig gravel out well. Or I might scoop up a bucket of earth, that way when I am plowing with my tractor, I get a little better weight transfer so I get better drawbar pull.

And that is my point, weight changes and transfers all the time in operation. Like with my skidder. When I am pulling wood out with my winch, when the wood is well back, all my skidder does is spin its tires, but at a point, the load comes in, the weight gets transferred to my tires, and I stop spinning my tires, and I start moving out of the woods. That is because weight transfer took place: the ideal ratio being 60% on the back axle, and 40% on the front. Now if I pull more wood than what the skidder is designed for, it is counter productive because the weight transfer ends up being 80% on the back, and 20% of the front. In other words my front tires are hardly touching the ground, and not getting traction. That does me no good trying to move wood.

The same weight transfer takes place with anything four wheel drive. A tractor pulling a plow, a truck pulling a sled in truck pulling, or a bucket loader moving gravel. With front loader work, you want 60% on the front, and 40% on the back, opposite than with a skidder because the work being performed is swapped.

R.G. LeTourneau proved half a century ago that weight does not matter when he designed his Haul Pak trucks. By having the proper weight transfer, his trucks could haul more load then what the truck actually weighed itself.

I do this same thing when moving big round bales with my little Kubota. Note the plural word "bales." It is easier for me to put one on the back, and another on the front, because the load is balanced and I can move faster and easier than with one on the front that makes my rear end light. The thing is, a bigger tractor cannot move (4) bales, so my little tractor is just as capable since both sized tractors are moving the same amount of hay, so no bigger tractor needed. An engineer would say, "You need a bigger tractor", but a farmer says, "No, I just need an extra hay bale to act as a counterweight."
 
   / TRACTOR WEIGHT as ONE (1) CRITERION in TRACTOR SELECTION #56  
This thread is like an outtake from Groundhog Day.
 
   / TRACTOR WEIGHT as ONE (1) CRITERION in TRACTOR SELECTION #57  
Adding weight is easy.

Adding horsepower, hydraulic/lift capacity...not so much.
 
   / TRACTOR WEIGHT as ONE (1) CRITERION in TRACTOR SELECTION #58  
It's Mother's Day, for crying out loud.
 
   / TRACTOR WEIGHT as ONE (1) CRITERION in TRACTOR SELECTION
  • Thread Starter
#59  
It's Mother's Day, for crying out loud.

I thank you, MOSS, for your continuing attention through numerous iterations of this thread. HAPPY MOTHER'S DAY!
 
Last edited:
   / TRACTOR WEIGHT as ONE (1) CRITERION in TRACTOR SELECTION #60  

Subcompact and compact tractors under 3,000 pounds bare weight operate in landscape, kitchen/commercial garden or hobby farm applications on one to ten flat acres.


Ten acres?? Of course you are not considering the numerous twenty five or so HP and under three thousand pound tractors that were used to farm 1/4 or 1/2 sections of land are you?
 
 
Top