Tractor Will Not Start

[LouNY]

Maybe the pump guy will chime in, I have not heard of that way of timing an injection pump.
If I were hazzarding a guess I would say that the internal plunger or piston should have been pushed up into a chamber and attempting to pressure the fuel to the injector which would have cut of the fuel supply.
I would think that the plunger would have needed to be installed for timing.
Good luck

 

[bill18163]

I have been looking for a service manual for the Bosch fuel pump on this tractor we are working on. The manual for the tractor says it is a Bosch-M made by DENSO. I can't find anything on the web regarding this pump. Can somebody steer me into what I am looking for?

 

[bill18163]

Maybe the pump guy will chime in, I have not heard of that way of timing an injection pump.
If I were hazzarding a guess I would say that the internal plunger or piston should have been pushed up into a chamber and attempting to pressure the fuel to the injector which would have cut of the fuel supply.
I would think that the plunger would have needed to be installed for timing.
Good luck

Hi LouNy,
I'm hoping you might be able to help with this question. We are still trying to figure out why this tractor will not start. We took off the gear case cover on the front of the engine because we wanted to see if there was any kind of damage done in that area when the tractor stopped with a loud bang and crunch. Of course we found that bolt that had come out of one of the clutch throw out bearing fingers that we found inside the bottom of the clutch housing when we did the clutch work. That's all repaired now. But the tractor won't start. It ran before the clutch problem and now it won't??? The question I have now is to help us get a clearer understanding of how all those timing gears work on the front of the engine under the gearcase cover. All those gears have numbers on the gear teeth that you have to line up. The manual says to set the #1 cylinder at TDC and then make sure the numbered teeth line up. So we set #1 to TDC on the compression stroke and expected to see the numbered gear teeth lined up but they didn't. Now if you keep turning the crank shaft quite a few times the teeth will eventually line up but we had to turn the engine over quite a few times to get that effect. We expected to see the gear teeth line up just because we had the #1 cylinder at TDC. Obviously that is not the case. Can you help us with understanding how these timing gears work?

 

[LouNY]

Those timing marks on all the gears should line up every 2 revolutions of the crankshaft.
When the #1 piston comes to top dead center on the compression stoke the markings should align.
The piston will reach top dead center every revolution with one being compression and the next revolution being exhaust.
If the main hub on the crankshaft doesn't have good visible marking,
when you get the piston to TDC on the compression stroke with the gears all aligned put a good visible mark on the pulley and then rotate the engine two full turns and they should be lined up again.

 

[bill18163]

I ordered a compression gage about three weeks ago and it never came. Amazon finally told me it got lost in the mail. I think the third party seller was screwing around and never sent it. How does something get lost in the mail today???? Anyway I ordered another one and it came today. We ran a compression test and the results was as follows: #1 cylinder 90lbs., #2 cylinder 405lbs, #3 cylinder 230lbs. The spec is 410/377. I know for a fact that the valves are in excellent shape. When we took the head off and pulled the valves to get a look at them they were in very good shape. They had a lot of carbon on them but when we cleaned them up all the valves and seats were really good. No abnormal wear at all. We did a quick lap job on all of them just to make them look good. So knowing that the valves were good I wanted to prove a point to myself. We squirted some oil into the #1 cylinder and ran the test again. It pumped up to 230lbs. So the rings are bad in two cylinders. How do you get bad rings in two cylinders and not in the third? Now we have to figure out what comes next. A new engine or try to repair this old one? Neither of us has done this kind of work.

 

[LouNY]

If someone used ether on that engine it could have easily broken rings and even the lands of the pistons.
Also injectors that are not spraying correctly can gum up the rings with carbon and stick them in the ring grooves.

The only way to determine if the engine is rebuildable is to tear it down and measure the cylinder bores to check the roundness
and look for grooving and gouges that are too deep for over sized pistons to fix.
Possibly a hone and rings or pistons and rings would fit and seal untill it's tore down and miked there's no telling.

Also over heating can collapse rings.

 

[bill18163]

We are currently looking for a Mitsubishi S3L/S3L2 rebuilt engine. If anyone knows a supplier of diesel engines that I might get one of these engines from, let me know. We just might have to purchase another engine.
We have the engine out of the tractor and on a bench and are in process of tearing it down. So far we know that #1 & #3 cylinders are low on compression(90 & 230 lbs) they should be about 400. When we get the pistons out and look at them and the rings maybe we will learn more. So I don't know if the sleeve bores are within tolerance or not. Everything has to be checked out as we go along. One question that I have for anyone that might know the answer is that if the bores are good do you have to break the glaze on the cylinder walls before putting new rings in?

 

[bill18163]

The engine is back together and running. I will post what we found when we disassembled the engine after I ask this question.
As I just said the engine is running but the hydraulics system is not working. No power steering etc. I suspect there is air in the system. Does anyone know the procedure to bleed air out of the system?