tractor won't start (or try to start) - SOLVED

[jd2130]

Hi, My kioti ck2510 sat idle all summer and now I'm trying to get it going again. It's from 2020, only has 200 hours.
When I try to start it, there is no clicking or anything, but the battery is fully charged. I thought it might be the seat safety switch, so I installed a bypass on that switch. It didn't help.
I tried jumping it by touching a piece of metal to both bolts on the solenoid (my first time trying this on a tractor). It just sounds like the starter is spinning, but no starting.
Does anyone have suggestions? Is there a different way to bypass all of the safety switches to help rule out that as a problem? I wouldn't mind too much if I have to do some weird bypass every time I start it.
Thank you

 

[Billrog]

I've bypast all my safety switches but if you have no clicking at all make sure, PTO disengaged, shifter in neutral, park brake engaged and master fuse not blown.

 

[jd2130]

I've bypast all my safety switches but if you have no clicking at all make sure, PTO disengaged, shifter in neutral, park brake engaged and master fuse not blown.

Thanks, yes. I checked all of those but not yet sure how to check the master fuse.

 

[Robin Veerman]

If your tractor has been sitting all summer, I’m thinking that the battery is weak. You should charge it for 24 hours and see what happens. You should put it on a 3amp maintainer 24/7. It might be too far gone but a load test would tell you that…
Just my 2cents

 

[jd2130]

If your tractor has been sitting all summer, I’m thinking that the battery is weak. You should charge it for 24 hours and see what happens. You should put it on a 3amp maintainer 24/7. It might be too far gone but a load test would tell you that…
Just my 2cents

Thank you Robin. I already tried this. It's all charged up. Also pretty sure it's not the battery because it won't even click when I turn the key

 

[dodge man]

Load test the battery that will put the battery to rest. They can seem good but be shorted out or another problem internally. A load tester is $30 to $50.

 

[jd2130]

The problem was seeds/crud in the fuse box! It was full of seeds and other debris from working my hay field. I cleaned it out, pulled out the main engine switched and cleaned that area thoroughly, and it's working.

It's a pain to get to the fuse box on this tractor, though. I had to take the hood all the way off to get there.

Thank you smart folks for your input!

 

[jd2130]

This same tractor won't start again. To recap, it wouldn't start before because the fuse box was dirty. I cleaned it out and it started fine. Now it won't start again.

I assumed it was the fuse again, so I cleaned the box thoroughly and replaced the main fuse and the start fuse (even though all of the fuses tested as working with the little tester/tweezer tool). It still won't crank at all or click when I turn the key. The battery is fully charged. Does anyone have any more ideas? I was thinking of replacing the whole fuse box itself.

Thanks in advance.

 

[grsthegreat]

Check or replace the battery cables. They rot out internally over time.

Also, verify all connection points on battery cables ate clean and tight. Use sandpaper if necessary to clean up. Also, if you can twist the battery cables at posts, there not tight enough

 

[oosik]

I've had one frightening moment like the OP explained. Turn the key - absolutely nothing.

It took me about ten minuets to figure it all out. Ten minuets of sweating and stone cold fear.

The previous time I used the tractor was with my chipper. I had left the PTO engaged. On the 2009 Kubota M6040 - leaving the PTO engaged shuts down the entire operation.

Relief - like you would not believe.

On my first tractor( Ford 1700 ) it was the battery ground had lost good connection to the tractor frame. Steel wool and retighten. Off to the races again.

 

[319Quahog]

Yeah, besides checking the obvious things which you absolutely should check/wiggle/double check.

Any relays in the starting system OP?

Dead relay would give similar symptoms.

IME on other parts, they love filling up with condensation. Have gone through two on the third function of mine-both times on the open grapple function. Mounted it slightly different this time.

 

[jd2130]

Thanks for your help guys! I don't think there's any issue with the battery, because I have power. I can turn on the lights and when I turn the key, the dash lights up. But when I turn the key all the way to start there is no sound.

It is the same type of situation as if a safety switch was failing, but the PTO is disengaged (and it's hitting the safety switch appropriately), it's in neutral, and I bypassed the seat safety switch.

I've been going around and cleaning all of the electrical connections, but no luck yet.

 

[jd2130]

Yeah, besides checking the obvious things which you absolutely should check/wiggle/double check.

Any relays in the starting system OP?

Dead relay would give similar symptoms.

IME on other parts, they love filling up with condensation. Have gone through two on the third function of mine-both times on the open grapple function. Mounted it slightly different this time.

Yes-I've done so many of those wiggle checks!

Not sure what you mean by 'relays in the starting system OP'. I did bench tests of both of the relays and they are both working properly

 

[319Quahog]

Yep, if the relays tested well they're likely not the issue.

No click at all. Is the starter solenoid getting juice?

I had a Dodge where the solenoid would occasionally bind up. Got juice, but I kept a big adjustable wrench to bash it with.

 

[jd2130]

Yep, if the relays tested well they're likely not the issue.

No click at all. Is the starter solenoid getting juice?

I had a Dodge where the solenoid would occasionally bind up. Got juice, but I kept a big adjustable wrench to bash it with.

Not sure how to test if the solenoid is getting juice. If I try to jump start it from the solenoid, it makes a spinning sound.

 

[KS KIOTI]

I’ve had two bad key switches on my Bobcat CT230, may give that a go.

 

[garry1p]

I had a bad key switch and sometimes it would do as you describe and other times it would just shut off while in use.
I had to make some long leads for my meter to verify what was happening as I was working alone and since mine was intermittent it took awhile to troubleshoot.

 

[LouNY]

Is this what your starter and solenoid look like;

When you try and start it by "jumping" the solenoid if you are jumping across the two large posts the starter will just spin over. If you jump from the large battery stud to the smaller top flag type terminal it should crank over if your battery and cables are good.

The better way is with a remote starting switch.

Just be well aware that an engine can start using this at any time, in gear or not.
People have been hurt by getting run over.

 

[jd2130]

Is this what your starter and solenoid look like;
View attachment 1903192
When you try and start it by "jumping" the solenoid if you are jumping across the two large posts the starter will just spin over. If you jump from the large battery stud to the smaller top flag type terminal it should crank over if your battery and cables are good.

The better way is with a remote starting switch.
View attachment 1903193

Just be well aware that an engine can start using this at any time, in gear or not.
People have been hurt by getting run over.

Thank you. I was not trying to jump it right.
Also, thank you for the warning!

I'm currently charging up my truck battery to 100% and I'll put that on the tractor before running any more tests, just to rule that out as a possible problem.

 

[part-time-Farmer-NC]

I had a similar experience. I found by jiggling the hi/med/Low shifter and turning the key worked for me. I had just plowed my taters up got off and must have hit it with my knee. Nothing I did would cause it to start. I would have guessed it wouldn't matter but it sure fired up when I jiggled it even though it was in Med range.