Tractors and wood! Show your pics

   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #14,001  
^^^^
The new emissions really don't like idling... they're meant to be running hotter. Having said that I"ve bad about not running as hard as they say that I should... about the only time that I run at PTO speed is when rototilling or bush hogging. It may cost me some day.
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #14,002  
What year did the new emissions come in? I didn’t think the 2816 had any of that. One time they’d preach that letting the old diesels idle was better than stopping and starting. I only ran at pto speeds when snow blowing or few times towing. Most times it’s 1500-1600. Not much at all


I saw you mention you really disliked the old buzz saw your father had. Did you see the more modern ones such as balfors? The blade design looks more like a skill saw. Different tooth design than the old blade I saw at my grandfathers. It seems quite zippy for wood under 12 inches which is the majority up here these days. Especially for soft wood like the fir and spruce we have. I wondered what it would be like. I normally like to haul my wood out 4 feet but most junk it up right in the woods to eliminate the mess.
 
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   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #14,003  
If your rails are blued from heat, it's possible they have been softened a bit and may see accelerated wear. Hopefully, that isn't the case, but either way it's nice to see it saved and still get some use out of it.

Did the bar also have a bend near the base, where it entered the saw?
It looked a bit like that in your original picture, but that may just have been an illusion caused by the angle from which the picture was taken.
I set a square next to blade, got good as I could so I'll just run it and see what wears out faster the chain or the bar. I'ts almost like chainsaw bars are like springy steel.
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #14,004  
IMG_20200531_160806.jpg

I have a chainsaw edging mill and use it to make beams, these are cedar.
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #14,005  
I wonder if spending $54.40 on making 5/8" x 5'- 5" bolts out of rebar is cheaper then buying them. Well to late for that question but I know pool people would rather buy them, sometimes I wish I had a pool but that ship has sailed to..........
yjLop90m.jpg


ojqw4c1h.jpg


4uBwXoWh.jpg


Now the hard part, lining up all those holes so I can get them long bolts through, yeah what can wrong............

ufQtoPjh.jpg


If nothing else this will make an awesome work bench..........
sUzzemKh.jpg
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #14,007  
I set a square next to blade, got good as I could so I'll just run it and see what wears out faster the chain or the bar. I'ts almost like chainsaw bars are like springy steel.

My understanding it that, the rails are heat treated to a higher hardness for better wear characteristics. However, making the whole bar this way would make it brittle, so it is not heat treated this way. I can't remember where I heard that, but it does make some sense. I do know that overheating the bar can soften the rails, increasing wear (over heating can occur from lack of lube, getting the bar pinched, possibly from forcing a dull chain into the wood with excessive pressure, etc.)

As mentioned in another thread some time ago, I've worked for a manufacturer of steel spring wire for most of my life. I'm what we used to call a "butt metallurgist", as in "I'm not a metallurgist, but..." Since I'm not sure of the source of my impressions on how chainsaw bars are made, I'd welcome comments from someone who actually knows the facts.
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #14,008  
Here you go:

View attachment 661362View attachment 661361
The only cost is 8 zip ties to hold each bin to the frame, cut off blades for the grinder, and reciprocating saw blades for cutting plastic.

Cheap. I have less than $850 invested in 32 bins that will hold about 15 cords of wood.
I also like this method, very convenient as long as you can lift them, my machines struggle when the wood is wet to even get them off the ground, and dry they are still a bit tricky to move around. Then again they are typically filled with oak. Might be time to upgrade my machines!
My biggest issue is finding the totes at a reasonable price, most places here want $150-$200 each.
Also they make recip blades for plastic?? I just use, well really any blades and blaze right through them!!
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #14,009  
It's hot now, but this was earlier this summer or spring...

Just hauling a bit. It isn't far away, so not too concerned about not hauling a ton. I split it out of the bucket usually so I don't have to lift.....
oGUwKNB.jpg


W6qgHko.jpg


I got a saw haul:
eOwavET.jpg


vM45JDu.jpg


I cut down this beast:
uQmde2g.jpg


Haul it home:
bhiyFfQ.jpg


Split it up:
23U5xgY.jpg



This is how much of an IBC tote ONE piece got me:
gGrRYJH.jpg


And if I want, burn it in my new fire ring:
YfcsBVS.jpg


That's our camper in the ring.....
fIJbgR5.jpg
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #14,010  
I wonder if spending $54.40 on making 5/8" x 5'- 5" bolts out of rebar is cheaper then buying them. Well to late for that question but I know pool people would rather buy them, sometimes I wish I had a pool but that ship has sailed to..........

Now the hard part, lining up all those holes so I can get them long bolts through, yeah what can wrong............



If nothing else this will make an awesome work bench..........

I really like your rebar bolts. Just remember....If you can't do it with force you need a bigger hammer.........

gg
 

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