Tractors and wood! Show your pics

[Sawyer Rob]

Those trailers ARE really cool, but these wagon running gears are just so "inexpensive", and are awesome too...

Also, they are a lot easier to hook and unhook plus you can pull doubles or even triples, if you have enough truck or tractor in front of them...

SR

 

[Industrial Toys]

I'd give the guy a hundred bucks if he could back up straight a hundred feet!

 

[Sawyer Rob]

I'd give the guy a hundred bucks if he could back up straight a hundred feet!

IF, it was just one wagon behind that tractor, I'd get your hundred bucks pretty fast!

Two I can back up, not so straight or fast, but I can get it done.

SR

 

[Mikejeakins]

Rob your better than me. I have to keep going forward and reverse to get it were I want it.

 

[s219]

I am cutting a new road on my land, despite never-ending rain over the last two weeks. Since I have to go back to work next week, I finally decided I would at least drop the trees while I have time off, and can get the tractor in to skid logs later, once things dry out.

I felled a couple poplars, but most of the trees so far (did 12 today) are Loblolly pines. These are the most stubborn trees I have dealt with in a while -- they are real tall and skinny. They do not want to fell with a normal notch and back cut. The ones that fall in the direction of the notch -- what I want -- need nibbling on the hinge with the saw, since the hinge seems to be a lot stronger than I normally see. And then others sit back on the saw for no reason, so I need to use wedges and tie on a rope to persuade them to fall in the direction of the notch. Makes for slow going when the trees don't want to follow the rules.









I am using both my Kubota L3200, with Wallenstein chipper on the PTO, and my new Kubota RTV. Hard to believe one person could need two vehicles, but they are both helping out -- I have my gear in the back of the RTV and am using it to pull a trailer to catch wood chips from the Wallenstein. Having gear in the RTV leaves the tractor front bucket free to help out when needed.

I am bucking the pine into 16' logs. Not sure what to do with it yet. Am going to see how much I have at the end and decide if it's worth hauling them to the paper mill, otherwise I will stack them and keep around for projects with my Alaskan mill. The skinny ones are 8" diameter, while the big ones are close to 12" diameter.

 

[4570Man]

This is my preferred method of cutting firewood. With a big saw you can make a pile of wood fast. It take about 5 minutes a log with most of the time spent moving the tractor to cut up a log.

 

[Gordon Gould]

I am cutting a new road on my land, despite never-ending rain over the last two weeks. Since I have to go back to work next week, I finally decided I would at least drop the trees while I have time off, and can get the tractor in to skid logs later, once things dry out.

I felled a couple poplars, but most of the trees so far (did 12 today) are Loblolly pines. These are the most stubborn trees I have dealt with in a while -- they are real tall and skinny. They do not want to fell with a normal notch and back cut. The ones that fall in the direction of the notch -- what I want -- need nibbling on the hinge with the saw, since the hinge seems to be a lot stronger than I normally see. And then others sit back on the saw for no reason, so I need to use wedges and tie on a rope to persuade them to fall in the direction of the notch. Makes for slow going when the trees don't want to follow the rules.

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I am using both my Kubota L3200, with Wallenstein chipper on the PTO, and my new Kubota RTV. Hard to believe one person could need two vehicles, but they are both helping out -- I have my gear in the back of the RTV and am using it to pull a trailer to catch wood chips from the Wallenstein. Having gear in the RTV leaves the tractor front bucket free to help out when needed.

I am bucking the pine into 16' logs. Not sure what to do with it yet. Am going to see how much I have at the end and decide if it's worth hauling them to the paper mill, otherwise I will stack them and keep around for projects with my Alaskan mill. The skinny ones are 8" diameter, while the big ones are close to 12" diameter.

With a skinny tree that needs a wedge to help direct the fall have you ever tried making your normal notch cut and then bore straight back thru the center of the notch so the saw tip comes out the back of the tree dead center. It gives a clear path for a wedge thru the hinge. Then drive a wedge in the back slot you just made. Make you back cut in two cuts, one on each side of the tree. On the first side start your cut about 1/2 or 1 inch above the wedge cut with the tip of the saw just over lapping the edge of the wedge cut. As you cut in make sure it over laps all the way to the hinge. Cut straight in to make a half back cut and one side of the hinge. Tighten the wedge. Then cut the other side the same way to finish the back cut and hinge. The tree won't tip back and bind your saw. You want to end up with a narrow strip of solid wood above the wedge and between the two back cuts. Pound in the wedge to fell the tree. The 1" vertical connection between the wedge cut and back cuts will split easy as the wedge goes in and the tree comes down.

gg

 

[HKH]

No tractor but here is some wood.

Bullitt, is that a HF dual splitter? How did you fabricate the 4 way splitting head?

here is part of this years wood that I split with mine

 

[s219]

With a skinny tree that needs a wedge to help direct the fall have you ever tried making your normal notch cut and then bore straight back thru the center of the notch so the saw tip comes out the back of the tree dead center. It gives a clear path for a wedge thru the hinge. Then drive a wedge in the back slot you just made. Make you back cut in two cuts, one on each side of the tree. On the first side start your cut about 1/2 or 1 inch above the wedge cut with the tip of the saw just over lapping the edge of the wedge cut. As you cut in make sure it over laps all the way to the hinge. Cut straight in to make a half back cut and one side of the hinge. Tighten the wedge. Then cut the other side the same way to finish the back cut and hinge. The tree won't tip back and bind your saw. You want to end up with a narrow strip of solid wood above the wedge and between the two back cuts. Pound in the wedge to fell the tree. The 1" vertical connection between the wedge cut and back cuts will split easy as the wedge goes in and the tree comes down.

gg

That is a great suggestion Gordon, thanks -- I will give that a try.

 

[dragoneggs]

This is my preferred method of cutting firewood. With a big saw you can make a pile of wood fast. It take about 5 minutes a log with most of the time spent moving the tractor to cut up a log. View attachment 452241

Done that too and it is fun and easy to cut wood from both ends at the height of your choosing :thumbsup: But this is also when I wish I had a hydraulic instead of mechanical thumb on my BH.