Tractors and wood! Show your pics

[hunt4570]

It does happen DEPENDING on what brand/style of tires you have or had, you still haven't told us what they were.

It's not going to happen to the brand/style of tires I have on my loader tractor, so it's a non-issue in my case.

SR

.They are Carlisle rubber R4 tractor tires, not radial..

 

[Hilbilly]

I'm not deezler but I just use a small flat file. After every couple sharpenings I give the rakers a couple (yes two) strokes with it, takes less than a minute per chain. I do not use one of those little gages as to me they seem a waste of time. I can tell by the bite of the chain if I took enough or too much off and 2 strokes is about perfect.

I also use a small flat file but still don't like that job. It seems that the file tends to skate and the rakers vibrate. Maybe I just need to get better files.

 

[hunt4570]

I also use a small flat file but still don't like that job. It seems that the file tends to skate and the rakers vibrate. Maybe I just need to get better files.

Do you do it on the saw? Thats how I do mine.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

.They are Carlisle rubber R4 tractor tires, not radial..

Thanks, those tires like many others, especially non radials will not stand up to heavy sidewall flexing and that's why they eventually do fail.

SR

 

[Hoobie]

Thank you for this comment, Helo. Gives me some bit of hope. Of course, if 2 million Unkrainians have fled, that still leaves 40 million of them at home under duress. The madness has to end ASAP.

To not derail this thread, I am excited to get back to some firewood production with spring's arrival. Unlike the diehards in here, I am a fair weather firewood producer. Not interested in frozen fingers, shoveling snow to clear my log piles, or dealing with logs frozen into the ground.

So I got all 6 of my blades sharpened up. Finally realized that I need to take the rakers down a bit also, they were just as tall as my teeth.

And I finally broke down and bought an affordable peavey (timberjack). Hope this thing holds up ok. Anyone like to use these things? I figure I will remove the leg after I clear my current log piles down to the ground, and just use it for rolling logs after that.

Deezler the timber jack is a great tool. Saves saw chains by lifting logs off the ground and your back too. I bought mine in he neighbouring state of Maine at Peavey Mfg. Ltd. they make the original Peavey , cant hooks and other really good stuff. Can't beat them.

 

[Hilbilly]

Do you do it on the saw? Thats how I do mine.

You bet. I also don't like those filing gauges for doing the rakers. I like my rakers filed a little more. Gives the chain more bite and the sawing goes faster.

 

[Jstpssng]

I use an 8” mill file for my rakers, because I have a hard time holding onto those little files they sell for the purpose. 3 swipes per raker, every few sharpenings. As somebody else mentioned you can tell if you didn’t take enough off because you still will be making sawdust, not chips; if you take too much off the chain will constantly try to pull you into the tree.

 

[Loaderman22]

I use an 8” mill file for my rakers, because I have a hard time holding onto those little files they sell for the purpose. 3 swipes per raker, every few sharpenings. As somebody else mentioned you can tell if you didn’t take enough off because you still will be making sawdust, not chips; if you take too much off the chain will constantly try to pull you into the tree.

And that will vary depending on what you are cutting. Softwoods, I like them a little lower, power through cedar and poplar. But for red oak, take them down too much and the saw pulls too hard and can bog down or chatter in your hands.

Now a pro like Skeans will have his method fine tuned because a chain that's not cutting exactly how he wants will affect his day a lot more than it will for us.

 

[hunt4570]

Thanks, those tires like many others, especially non radials will not stand up to heavy sidewall flexing and that's why they eventually do fail.

SR

And that is why now I run the tire manufacturers recommended psi and not the tractors manufacturer , they dont make the tires...

 

[Yogi05]

Do pre-cut as high as you can. Take into consideration how healthy that wood actually is. If it's already rotten - cut less than half. If it's nice and "green" you can go till 2/3.
Put the cable around tree where that cut is.
Pull gently, to break the cut. In pic it seams that you can pull it sideways, that remaining tree will not allow the fallen one kill you
Tree should not flip over but stay like it is, and already 1.5 m shorter and 100 kg lighter
Repeat, till you can handle it

View attachment 736645

This was my original thought because it's lodged pretty well amongst that other stand of trees. Which by the way are all off one stump.
I was simply too chicken to try it thinking it didn't sound like a very good idea.
Maybe I was wrong after all and it's not such a dangerous thing. It's on the edge of my driveway so lots of escape room. And yes, I can pull it sideways, just can't pull it backward away from the other trees.
I even thought of roping the top and adding the tractor to keep it from doing anything drastic if I cut where you suggest.

Thanks