Tractors and wood! Show your pics

   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #19,821  
Here in West Texas no trees so really miss
having a wood stove for cooking & one for heat
Nothing like wood heat for steady heat. Don't care
for oil or gas stoves you get hear then is cools off
then more heat then it cools off SUCKS!
We use oil filled heaters and constant hear! When
the electric shuts off oil still heats and a constant
temp is maintained.

willy
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #19,822  
You bet. I also don't like those filing gauges for doing the rakers. I like my rakers filed a little more. Gives the chain more bite and the sawing goes faster.
I have a penchant for people who cut wood to also have a grinder type chainsaw sharpener. Rakers are done in about 2 minutes because you can set there grinder at a stop just enough to get the rakers where you want. The wheel change takes less than 15 seconds.
When i was logging, all my tweaked chains I used that day were put on the grinder at night. I touched up chains onboard when in the wood but never messed with a rock or iron hit. That meant another chain and at night, I attended to the damaged chains.
The beauty of the grinder was how fast it did stuff from sharpening to raker adjustment while maintaining a consistency.
Doesn't have to be that $400-$500 one. $150 would get you a decent one.
The trouble w the cheaper ones is that their motors don't draw enough amps and they have to travel at high rpms which takes the temper away from the cutting edge. Even this can be over come with a grind crayon (Kool Stik which they now call "Kool Grind") to dress the wheel now and again.
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #19,823  
What are you using to file the rakers? That is the one sharpening job I hate.
Here’s one of the grinders I use depending on the chain for doing depth gauges.
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #19,824  
And that will vary depending on what you are cutting. Softwoods, I like them a little lower, power through cedar and poplar. But for red oak, take them down too much and the saw pulls too hard and can bog down or chatter in your hands.

Now a pro like Skeans will have his method fine tuned because a chain that's not cutting exactly how he wants will affect his day a lot more than it will for us.
If you’re getting chatter you might have too much hook on a round tooth. An aggressive raker can cause chatter or bog/stall of a cut, but what’s more likely to help is a little back pressure on the handle bar that’ll smooth it right out. Great example is off side falling or clutch side up you start the saw in the cut then remove your hand from the handle bars to use as a chip shield, with this method you’ll find out fast how well a chain is cutting.
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #19,825  
Can someone tell me how to safely take this tree down?
I think trying to use my FEL to move it, either from the top(ish) or bottom, would end badly for me or the tractor, or both.
Can't pull the base away from a distance because there is not enough room (house).
Can't just cut as it stands as far as I know because it could end up anywhere.
I don't really want to take down the stand it is leaning into (piece by piece).
It's broken at the base as far as I can tell.
I'm no expert, or even much of an amateur really.
It's about 8 to 10 inches diameter
View attachment 736506
i agree with Green acres homestead you might be over you confort zone here … do you know a old timer lumberjack not a industrial one a traditional one ? try to get one to come over and do it for you if you can …


that’s a rat nest ehn lol

What i would do but i don’t really advise you to do it because i do not know your skills level and physical abilities… it’s hard to see from the picture so i won’t say to start cutting the tree(s) it is stuck in because i can’t tell which one it is and if it can be done safely so the next best thing and it is actually safer but there is still some risk. I would cut the tree you are concerned about at the base hip to chess hight until you get it to stand it up near vertical like 10 to 15 degrees slanted … every time you cut a section watch yourself get clear watch your feet and legs … then i would tie up a chain at the base of the tree and using a chain block or winch i would pull it back towards the house until it reach its original position. I wouldn’t pull it with your tractor tho, with a winch it will be more controlled. Then i would repeat the processes until it’s completely down … most likely towards the end of the process the top of the tree will get stuck at the top and it will be hanging there but it will come down …

Then y’a cut the dead one on the right that one is a wild card yes it is leaning away from the house so technically it shouldn’t be a problem but it is rotten so you have to watch sometime they break in half in mid air and the top half fall in a other direction from the base like on itself just like a folding table kinda thing so yes that’s very dangerous.
 
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   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #19,826  
Do pre-cut as high as you can. Take into consideration how healthy that wood actually is. If it's already rotten - cut less than half. If it's nice and "green" you can go till 2/3.
Put the cable around tree where that cut is.
Pull gently, to break the cut. In pic it seams that you can pull it sideways, that remaining tree will not allow the fallen one kill you
Tree should not flip over but stay like it is, and already 1.5 m shorter and 100 kg lighter
Repeat, till you can handle it

View attachment 736645
Id
I just do not like the way the tires are squished down, I used to run mine like that but no more.
It's hard on everything with low psi. Plus it's dangerous , especially with a FEL.
I run 30-32 in my fronts.
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #19,827  
Finally got up to the first peak at the new property. Looks like they had it logged. I'm not crazy about it but I'll have A LOT of great firewood to sell for years. I think I'll do a fire pit and some aderondak chairs up here for stargazing.

I need to get up.there with the grapple and saws now.
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   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #19,828  
This was my original thought because it's lodged pretty well amongst that other stand of trees. Which by the way are all off one stump.
I was simply too chicken to try it thinking it didn't sound like a very good idea.
Maybe I was wrong after all and it's not such a dangerous thing. It's on the edge of my driveway so lots of escape room. And yes, I can pull it sideways, just can't pull it backward away from the other trees.
I even thought of roping the top and adding the tractor to keep it from doing anything drastic if I cut where you suggest.

Thanks
Take in consideration that all weight of that tree will try to pinch your bar. Be very accurate and slow. It is not dangerous for you, but you can lose your saw

Take with you universal saw key. I don't know, how you call that, we call it T key.
If your bar is pinched, dont try to fight gravity. Just unscrew saw from bar. Leave bar & chain where it is, take motor with you and start to do what you need to do with tractor.
Nothing bad will happen with bar & chain
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #19,829  
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #19,830  
Take in consideration that all weight of that tree will try to pinch your bar. Be very accurate and slow. It is not dangerous for you, but you can lose your saw

Take with you universal saw key. I don't know, how you call that, we call it T key.
If your bar is pinched, dont try to fight gravity. Just unscrew saw from bar. Leave bar & chain where it is, take motor with you and start to do what you need to do with tractor.
Nothing bad will happen with bar & chain
Bar wrench?
 
 
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