Tractors and wood! Show your pics

[Helogabals]

Bar wrench?

 

[Hilbilly]

Here’s one of the grinders I use depending on the chain for doing depth gauges.

Nice setup. I would like to be able to grind the rakers that easily and fast too.

I have a penchant for people who cut wood to also have a grinder type chainsaw sharpener. Rakers are done in about 2 minutes because you can set there grinder at a stop just enough to get the rakers where you want. The wheel change takes less than 15 seconds.
When i was logging, all my tweaked chains I used that day were put on the grinder at night. I touched up chains onboard when in the wood but never messed with a rock or iron hit. That meant another chain and at night, I attended to the damaged chains.
The beauty of the grinder was how fast it did stuff from sharpening to raker adjustment while maintaining a consistency.
Doesn't have to be that $400-$500 one. $150 would get you a decent one.
The trouble w the cheaper ones is that their motors don't draw enough amps and they have to travel at high rpms which takes the temper away from the cutting edge. Even this can be over come with a grind crayon (Kool Stik which they now call "Kool Grind") to dress the wheel now and again.

I've got a cheap electric grinder that works OK but just barely and after reading your post I did some checking. The grinder I have runs at 6300 rpm but the other one Princess Auto has runs at 3500 rpm and it has a lot of other better features. It's $155 CAD and I think I might get it now or wait until it comes on sale. I normally hand sharpen my chains while I'm in the woods, especially if I notice it's not cutting well or if I accidentally touch the ground. If I rock it, I'll wait until I get home. I do carry a spare chain for each of my saws and my practice has been to use one chain until it is toast and then install the new one. But maybe I will start switching back and forth and do all my sharpening at home with the new electric sharpener. I hove noticed that my hand sharpening always leaves one side of teeth a little shorter than the other side, even though I take the same number of strokes on each tooth.

 

[hornett22]

Good looking land with nice view.

Yeah, it's pretty nice. Wish I had time to get more done.

 

[hornett22]

Good looking land with nice view.

This place is LOADED with deer.

 

[Williy]

If we ever had a tree pinch the chain saw
blade a wedge and sledge did the trick and
no we never removed the blade and chain
never had to the wedge did it all. Years ago
we could purchase fat or skinny wedges so
if your blade was not in tree very far the fat
wedge came in to play just what we did many
moons ago

willy

 

[Skeans1]

If we ever had a tree pinch the chain saw
blade a wedge and sledge did the trick and
no we never removed the blade and chain
never had to the wedge did it all. Years ago
we could purchase fat or skinny wedges so
if your blade was not in tree very far the fat
wedge came in to play just what we did many
moons ago

willy

You’ve never had something really sit back then, there’s times wedge will do nothing if the center of gravity has come past center of your hinge. Pinching a BAR is something that will happen to even veteran fallers especially well bucking.

 

[Skeans1]

A quick trick to watch what a tree is doing is to set just the tip of a wedge in with the butt of it slightly pointed down. If the tree is starting to set back the wedge will stand up and you know it’s time to start getting some lift on the stump, now if that wedge keeps setting down no wedge is needed. Myself I carry a 15” wedge I use for that reason as well as using it as a setter for setting up wedges or being used out bucking and finally that big old fat wedge will bail you out when stacking isn’t enough.

 

[Hilbilly]

Last year I was dropping a tree that about 12" at the base and was too close to my powerline. It had a slight lean towards the powerline and I wanted to make sure it didn't get blown down onto the line. My intention was to fall it away from the powerline. I cut the face and then most of the back cut and figured it was time to get the wedges. I pulled the saw out and turned around to grab a wedge. When I turned back the tree had sat back and there was no way I could get a wedge started. Had to get my come along and pull the tree back up enough to get the wedge started and then all was good. I was scared the tree would fall back onto my powerline, which was exactly what I was trying to prevent in the first place. That's a problem with the small trees here. There's not enough room to get a wedge behind the bar when doing the back cut. I have, however ruined a few wedges by driving them in early and then cutting them with the saw, while finishing the back cut.

 

[Jstpssng]

Last year I was dropping a tree that about 12" at the base and was too close to my powerline. It had a slight lean towards the powerline and I wanted to make sure it didn't get blown down onto the line. My intention was to fall it away from the powerline. I cut the face and then most of the back cut and figured it was time to get the wedges. I pulled the saw out and turned around to grab a wedge. When I turned back the tree had sat back and there was no way I could get a wedge started. Had to get my come along and pull the tree back up enough to get the wedge started and then all was good. I was scared the tree would fall back onto my powerline, which was exactly what I was trying to prevent in the first place. That's a problem with the small trees here. There's not enough room to get a wedge behind the bar when doing the back cut. I have, however ruined a few wedges by driving them in early and then cutting them with the saw, while finishing the back cut.

I would rather destroy a plastic wedge though, than have the tree go where I want. Sometimes when it rocks back the way that you say, making another shallow groove in the back cut will give you a chance to start the wedge.

 

[Jstpssng]

This is impressive. I will ask that you watch it with your volume off though, to keep politics out of this long running thread.