Tractors and wood! Show your pics

[Citydude]

That was amazing!

 

[Gordon Gould]

My intention was to fall it away from the powerline. I cut the face and then most of the back cut and figured it was time to get the wedges. I pulled the saw out and turned around to grab a wedge. When I turned back the tree had sat back and there was no way I could get a wedge started.

That's a problem with the small trees here. There's not enough room to get a wedge behind the bar when doing the back cut.

Try this when you don't have room for a wedge. Make your face cut and then lay your saw on the flat of the face cut and bore straight back thru the back of the tree. Then put your wedge in. Make your back cut in two steps. One on each side and a little above the wedge. Make sure you leave good wood above the wedge. The little bit of verticle grain left splits very easily when you drive the wedge. Works real well. Called tongue and groove cut.

gg

 

[Skeans1]

Try this when you don't have room for a wedge. Make your face cut and then lay your saw on the flat of the face cut and bore straight back thru the back of the tree. Then put your wedge in. Make your back cut in two steps. One on each side and a little above the wedge. Make sure you leave good wood above the wedge. The little bit of verticle grain left splits very easily when you drive the wedge. Works real well. Called tongue and groove cut.


View attachment 736945


View attachment 736946


gg

Why not just do your back cut first?

 

[Skeans1]

Last year I was dropping a tree that about 12" at the base and was too close to my powerline. It had a slight lean towards the powerline and I wanted to make sure it didn't get blown down onto the line. My intention was to fall it away from the powerline. I cut the face and then most of the back cut and figured it was time to get the wedges. I pulled the saw out and turned around to grab a wedge. When I turned back the tree had sat back and there was no way I could get a wedge started. Had to get my come along and pull the tree back up enough to get the wedge started and then all was good. I was scared the tree would fall back onto my powerline, which was exactly what I was trying to prevent in the first place. That's a problem with the small trees here. There's not enough room to get a wedge behind the bar when doing the back cut. I have, however ruined a few wedges by driving them in early and then cutting them with the saw, while finishing the back cut.

If I’m in small stuff like that I’ll put the back cut in first so I can wedge it up tight then put my face in.

 

[Gordon Gould]

Why not just do your back cut first?

Why not - that works. But on small trees the wedge will run into the hinge before the tree tips. So you have to bore it anyways. Boring it before the wedge is in place is easier on the wedge.

gg

 

[BackRoad]

Great video Mr. Jstpssng...it just kept going and going.

Interesting how they seemed to all slide off to the left after dominoing the next in line.

My luck - the feller gets paid the big bucks...and I'd be the one responsible to limb them all out once he got them down!

"BackRoad, it's all yours now - go clean it up..."

 

[Jstpssng]

Great video Mr. Jstpssng...it just kept going and going.

Interesting how they seemed to all slide off to the left after dominoing the next in line.

My luck - the feller gets paid the big bucks...and I'd be the one responsible to limb them all out once he got them down!

"BackRoad, it's all yours now - go clean it up..."

That's why they make delimbers.

 

[Cycledude]

This is impressive. I will ask that you watch it with your volume off though, to keep politics out of this long running thread.

Wow amazing is definitely right I’ve never seen that many taken down all in one try before !!!

 

[Hilbilly]

I'm going to have to remember all the good suggestions here, when I get back to firewood gathering.

I also picked up one of the better Princess Auto electric chain sharpeners. After getting it set up and giving it try, I really like it.

For those of you that use the electric sharpener on the rakers, do you change the wheel and use a flat edged one that has not been shaped or just use the same wheel that was used for the teeth?

 

[Rockbadchild]

I'm going to have to remember all the good suggestions here, when I get back to firewood gathering.

I also picked up one of the better Princess Auto electric chain sharpeners. After getting it set up and giving it try, I really like it.

For those of you that use the electric sharpener on the rakers, do you change the wheel and use a flat edged one that has not been shaped or just use the same wheel that was used for the teeth?

I wouldn't uses a electric sharpener on the rakers unless you have a controlled way of doing it ... if you take these down too much your chainsaw will become pretty dangerous ...