Trailer Build Planning

[mrmikey]

I drew this up (attached) almost 12 years ago and made my own trailer from it. Only change from original is I changed the Torqueflex axles from 2000LB to 3500LB and added electric brakes as I haul a 1100L water tank as my daughters well goes dry in the summer. So weight of trailer 700lbs ±, water 2500lbs for a total of 3200lbs±.
I made a similar size trailer my SIN but he wanted a conventional lighter spring axle instead of the Torqueflex. After hauling his and mine, I'd never consider a leaf spring suspension if I had a choice. When empty, the Torqueflex hits a bump, bounces twice and stops, his is still bouncing 10 minutes later LOL.
Full, mine bounces once and stops........Mike

 

[ArlyA]

Didn't actually think about the fact that I could not possible carry that much stone. I get it in 1000# loads and you're right, that's not much stone and I don't need 32 inches of depth on the sides. using an 8 or 10 inch wide board on the bottom may be the simplest solution.

Go bigger ak higher capacity, go better frame, is my suggestion.

 

[jaxs]

Sorry I missed your question.

the wiring that comes with these trailers does not run the ground wire to all of the lights. Instead you are supposed to connect the ground for each light directly to the frame near then light and you connect the ground at the front to the frame. The issue is that with all the paint and the fact the the frame connections are not solid so that it can fold the continuity is poor. The only real way to fix it is to get some additional wire to run all the way to the lights instead.

Thanks,I wanted to know so as to best address your concern without detouring. You are correct,that is absolutly a poor way to ground when frame is bolted togeather instead of welded. Adding a dedicated ground wire that go's to all lights is simple and straightfoward. The conventional flat car to trailer plug already has the dedicated ground wire. Just make sure all connections are good and take time to route wires where weeds and brush can't grab wire and pull it loose. Through boxed frame members or tucked to an inside corner of angle or channel is a good idea. I think your best option is a used trailer such as this so that you get welded frame,heavier duty,larger tires and within budget.

 

[CoyPatton]

Thanks,I wanted to know so as to best address your concern without detouring. You are correct,that is absolutly a poor way to ground when frame is bolted togeather instead of welded. Adding a dedicated ground wire that go's to all lights is simple and straightfoward. The conventional flat car to trailer plug already has the dedicated ground wire. Just make sure all connections are good and take time to route wires where weeds and brush can't grab wire and pull it loose. Through boxed frame members or tucked to an inside corner of angle or channel is a good idea. I think your best option is a used trailer so that you get welded frame,heavier duty,larger tires and within budget.

I have re-wired many many trailers. A few of the various folding trailers. Any bolt together trailers have a major issue with frame grounding—dissimilar metals of bolts wasters and these frames exposed to weather are a recipe for quickly compromised grounding through the frame. If you want the trailer to fold, as many do for compact storage, you have a built in problem area for wiring to be jerked out, as you must have slack for the wiring to not be damaged when folded.
One way to get 3 separate wires of slightly greater gauge is to use extension cord wire. You will have to determine what color you use for what purpose as you are limited to white, black and green.

 

[WranglerX]

I have re-wired many many trailers. A few of the various folding trailers. Any bolt together trailers have a major issue with frame grounding—dissimilar metals of bolts wasters and these frames exposed to weather are a recipe for quickly compromised grounding through the frame. If you want the trailer to fold, as many do for compact storage, you have a built in problem area for wiring to be jerked out, as you must have slack for the wiring to not be damaged when folded.
One way to get 3 separate wires of slightly greater gauge is to use extension cord wire. You will have to determine what color you use for what purpose as you are limited to white, black and green.

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Deka/DW04923-1.html

 

[CoyPatton]

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Deka/DW04923-1.html

$2.80 a foot
14 feet. Distance from rear bumper of pull vehicle to rear of trailer (allows for slack for turning and at fold point).
6 feet. Distance from one side light to other side light.
20 feet total at $3 per foot = $60 for a 4x8 framed trailer.
Compared to either salvaging a cord or using a damaged cord for wiring a trailer?
Your decision! But unless you plan well in advance you have some wait time also. With shipping these days from all carriers that could be a week or a month.

 

[WranglerX]

But do it once properly and it is good forever... Really hate rebuilding trailer wiring every few years using lesser quality stuff... Also it's kind of comforting to know when ever I hook up the lights will be working and not have to muck around with them ever time I want to use trailer....

But really my post was to only show that 4 wire cable was available for those who might need it for proper wiring job....

 

[flyerdan]

Using the frame for a ground is fine if everything is welded together so there aren't any continuity issues.
When we built a bobcat trailer at work (back in the 90's) it had 2x4 frame rails that the lights were integral to. While it was tacked together, I took measurements and strung pull wires, then prefabbed the wiring harness to live inside the tubes. When the welding was done, pulled the wiring in and drilled for the grounds. Cleaned and deburred the inside where the pop rivet would hold the terminal. I think there were five ground rivets for eight lights total.
Also had a junction box at the front to tie both sides to the plug wiring. If you have a shared trailer where employees may forget to unplug it before driving away, or grind it off on the highway, having a replaceable wiring lead can save a lot of headaches down the line.

 

[jaxs]

If you have a shared trailer where employees may forget to unplug it before driving away, or grind it off on the highway, having a replaceable wiring lead can save a lot of headaches down the line.

Do you mean to say people don't always stop then and there to put things back like they found them?.

 

[hube2]

To be honest, I'd prefer not to have a folding trailer. The likelihood that I will ever fold it is small. More than likely I'm going to replace all the pins with bolts and be done with it.

Edited to add: I might be able to fold it in half, but it will never stand safely or be rolled around on those tiny stand wheels where I will be storing it.

I have looked for other similar trailers that are available but the capacities of what I have found are much less or the wheels are even smaller. On the other hand I wouldn't be able to store anything bigger. Nothing that I've seen that comes assembled will suit my needs and I'd just be buying something that would need even more work to make it suit those needs.

If I had the skill and the equipment I'd probably build my own or if I had the skill and ability I'd get something else and modify it. But I need to work within what I know that I am capable of doing or I'll just end up with a piece of crap sitting in my yard that never gets finished and I have to move around every time I have to mow.

What I really need is 2 trailers, one for the road and one to drag around my property with the tractor, but I just don't have the space to store unitaskers. When I say drag around the property, it's not going to get a work out off roading, we're talking lawn and flat (well hilly but smooth) field.

I appreciate the link to the wire actually. I just had a talk with my father in law who has one of these and he has had to to rewire it every spring due to rodents. Something with a jacket rather than loose wires would have a better chance of surviving storage. Yes, it costs more, but would it really cost more if I needed to replace wires every year?