Trailer Deck

[edgaines]

Don't know if this is the right place, but........
How do you replace the decking, (2x6pt) on a trailer that has welded channel on both ends? (I'm sure they all are, but thought I would find one end of it bolted on so changing the planks would be easier.) Any suggestions welcomed... /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

 

[MicroPilot]

Is there a slot somewhere in one of the channels? If not you may have to cut one of the boards in half to get them started out. When re-installing, at the end when the last board is going back in make sure it is just a little longer than what will fit past the lip and pound it in place with a hammer.

 

[RobS]

If you bow the boards you should be able to get them in /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[MicroPilot]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( If you bow the boards you should be able to get them in /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif )</font>

Yea, that would work too if they were long enough.

 

[BubbaJr]

If you decide to cut the decking out, make sure you look underneath to see where the tail light/electric brake wires are before you fire up the saw.

Don't ask !! /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

 

[Gary_in_Indiana]

The easiest way is probably to just cut one end off, replace the wood then weld that piece back in place. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[Bird]

There are two ways I know of to do it. One is like Gary said, to cut the channel off one end and weld it back on after the new boards are in place. How wide is the channel at each end that's over the boards and are the boards held down by bolts. The second, and to my way of thinking, the preferable, way is to cut the boards to such a length that with one end pushed all the way into the channel, the other end will go down flat and flush with the other channel. Then slide the board into the second channel, so that both ends of the board are IN the channel but not all the way at either end. And a bolt, even through a middle of the board will keep it from sliding forward or backward enough to get loose at either end.

 

[Gary_in_Indiana]

Bird,

How could that possibly be the preferable way if I don't get to cut metal and use my newly acquired welding skills? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif Your way is hardly any fun at all. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Bird]

Yeah, Gary, for those who have the equipment and know-how, the cutting and welding may be preferable. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif And while I don't really know for sure, I wonder if you cut the boards to fit tightly in the channel at both ends, is there a possibility that they might swell when they get wet and try to bow. Since boards generally tend to shrink with age, that may or may not be a consideration.

 

[greg_g]

Gary - when replacing trailer deck, the assumption is that the original floor has no remaining life. I simply cut the bad piece at one end or the other, and lift the two pieces out. If you're replacing the entire trailer bed, you only have to do this with a few boards. Once they're missing, you need merely slide the remaining board to a diagonal position whereby the ends come free of the channel.

Replacing with new boards is just the opposite. Place them on the diagonal and slide the ends into the channel till they're running "north and south" again. Do this till no more will fit in on the diagonal. At that point get yourself a couple of short 4x4s and a sledge hammer. Again on the diagonal, put the next floor board in place - one end in the channel. But this time with a 4x4 under the center as a pivot point. Bow the opposite end down till an edge is under the channel. Knock it in place with the sledge hammer, knock out the 4x4. Repeat on each new floorboard, adding height to the 4x4 stack to increase the bow as you get toward the final boards.

Sorry, no cutting or welding involved. Swearing maybe, but no cutting or welding.

//greg//