trailer floor

   / trailer floor #11  
the amount you use that trailer I would get some pressure treated and end it...
 
   / trailer floor #12  
I'll go along with the plywood , light, quick and works well. I don't go along with the marine grade as it is the same as exterior plywood, except it has no voids, where-as ext grade ply will have a few. The glue in marine is exactly the same and the wood is exactly the same as marine grade except for the voids, but costs 2 times as much. The advantx works just as well as plywood, but is a bit heavier. Later, Nat
 
   / trailer floor #13  
Why not a deck of 3/4" PT plywood? You could even go two layers using construction adhesive and screws if you don't have good rail spacing underneath for an "Ultra Deck". /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
   / trailer floor #14  
I appreciate that we don't have to license trailers. Registration and title above a certain weight, but no license required.
 
   / trailer floor #15  
Pressure treated 1x6s (the ones that are actually 1" thick)

They don't rot, are tough, cheap and strong enough that I was able to install some D rings below flush.

Plus if one plank ever breaks I can replace it without having to take the whole thing apart.
 
   / trailer floor #16  
I used treated tongue and groove 2x6' when I built my utility trailer 8 years ago. I also bolted 2 runs of 1-5/8" deep Superstrut (the gold anodized with the slots in the bottom) to the frame to act as a rail for tie-downs. The strut sits just proud of the 2x. I use 3/8" shoulder eyebolts with a heavy duty fender washer (the machine supply house called them "deck washers") and a unitstrut nut as the tie-down points. I just drop them in the channel and tighten by hand where ever I want a tie-down. 1 turn to loosen and they are out of the way.
 
   / trailer floor #17  
Do a search on Google for "trailer parts" - there are a number of places out there that sell trailer parts. Do a search for "trailer flooring" too - there is a bunch of different stuff out there, rubber, aluminum diamond plate, polyvinyl etc. You definitely want something that wont allow loads to slip around. I wouldn't want all your BX implements moving around on the trailer when I am hauling them back up to Ma. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
 
   / trailer floor #18  
2x6 pine. Soak them in very strong salt water. Make sure they have 1/8" cracks between them so they will not trap water and rot between the boards.
 
   / trailer floor #20  
I'd use whatever plywood you want, thick enough to support the weight.

Then pick up a can of polyester-based fiberglass resin (which is cheap), mix it properly, then saturate the plywood top, bottom, and edges, using a 6" wide brush.

Then your trailer will rust away long before the plywood rots.
 

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