trailer plug replacement

[arrow]

Must have done at least 7 or 8 of these over the years. Inside the spade connector, there are wire terminals that simply corrode out. I've put grease, used tape to keep out the weather, and even silicone on these connectors to little avail. I'm wondering if it better to get the molded type and make the wire connection down the line and then put a shrink sleeve over the union of soldered wires. Has anyone found a better way to solve the inside terminal corrosion on replacement 7 pole spade connectors?

 

[Coyote machine]

Move to Arizona.

 

[pmsmechanic]

On both of my trucks I moved the trailer connector into the box. That's the end of corrosion problems. I just use a short extension cord over the tail gate for my bumper pulls. I also use a soft bungee over the tail gate to hold the plug up so that it's not in the slush etc.

 

[mojoinco]

Get a long pigtail with molded connector (as you already want), run it into a weather proof electrical box and use a terminal strip. That's pretty much how the rental trucks are set up. Simplifies troubleshooting/ repair and that rare time when the trailer (not your own) is wired differently.

 

[ModMech]

I have had the most success with coating the completed connector terminals with NAPA Battery and Terminal Protector, but I am sure there are quality products by other brands as well.

Moving the connection somewhere else by installing a sealed and molded plug, moves the problem somewhere else too.

 

[herringchoker]

I'm close to salt water and the roads here are heavily salted in the winter. I had the same corrosion problem, tried all kinds of greases and nothing worked. But in years of owning and operating Class 8 trucks and trailers I never had this corrosion problem with the 7-pin ROUND pin connectors used on heavy duty trucks. So, I converted to that system - end of problem (I still grease the pins as I always did). And there is a bonus - if anybody wants to borrow my trailer - sorry, the connector is not compatible with the 7-spade RV setup.

 

[arrow]

I have had the most success with coating the completed connector terminals with NAPA Battery and Terminal Protector, but I am sure there are quality products by other brands as well.

Moving the connection somewhere else by installing a sealed and molded plug, moves the problem somewhere else too.

It's funny but this was an idea that came to me last night just before I dozed off. I had never tried this stuff on the connectors but will give this a shot if I do not get molded connector.
I think a covered connector certainly would do it's duty as it applies to the elements. It's as if one needs a pig tail only to connect vehicle to trailer and then take the pig tail after you're done with it and throw it in the vehicle for storage. There may be room in the battery box working the emergency brakes to install a connector.

 

[arrow]

I'm close to salt water and the roads here are heavily salted in the winter. I had the same corrosion problem, tried all kinds of greases and nothing worked. But in years of owning and operating Class 8 trucks and trailers I never had this corrosion problem with the 7-pin ROUND pin connectors used on heavy duty trucks. So, I converted to that system - end of problem (I still grease the pins as I always did). And there is a bonus - if anybody wants to borrow my trailer - sorry, the connector is not compatible with the 7-spade RV setup.

The problem I keep experiencing is not at the connection point as the plug is inserted to nor the spade terminals within the plug. It is where the wires connect to the plug. These little screws seem to rot out no matter what they're made of.

 

[pmsmechanic]

The problem I keep experiencing is not at the connection point as the plug is inserted to nor the spade terminals within the plug. It is where the wires connect to the plug. These little screws seem to rot out no matter what they're made of.

Have you ever tried spraying the inside of the plug with Fluid Film? I'm wondering if that wouldn't work.

 

[herringchoker]

I didn't mention that I have always sealed those screw connections with Vaseline and in the last few years I also spray with Rust Check film. I then thoroughly wrap the whole back end of the plug and the cable with electrical tape. On the big trucks I also covered that with brush-on electrical tape or brush-on contact cement (same stuff at half the price). Fluid film should work.

 

[arrow]

I didn't mention that I have always sealed those screw connections with Vaseline and in the last few years I also spray with Rust Check film. I then thoroughly wrap the whole back end of the plug and the cable with electrical tape. On the big trucks I also covered that with brush-on electrical tape or brush-on contact cement (same stuff at half the price). Fluid film should work.

This has given me an idea. First, I'll try getting just the plug replacement. I'll spray the contact points with something like Battery Saver. I'll then tape over the seam where the wire enters the plug. Over this I'll brush on some of that rubberized tool handle dip and see if it adheres to the tape and plug base. If it works, it may provide a decent weather seal. Thanks to all who contributed in a fruitful manner. It seems when people here do that, one idea leads to another to hopefully solve the problem.

 

[Pete6114]

I always load up the plugs/pins heavily with Dielectric grease which has only one purpose, and that's to seal out moisture and prevent corrosion on electrical connectors. Works well and have never had a corrosion issue.

 

[jaotguy]

x2 on the liquid tape from wally world ... cover everything you can see that is bare ....

 

[pat32rf]

The liquid tape is great stuff but many of my 50 working years were spent as an electrician and trying to keep something dry by taping it up just doesn't work.....Dielectric grease and moving the plug pays off.

 

[pmsmechanic]

The liquid tape is great stuff but many of my 50 working years were spent as an electrician and trying to keep something dry by taping it up just doesn't work.....Dielectric grease and moving the plug pays off.

I'll agree with that statement. Moving the plug into my truck box was the most effective thing I have done to keep the wires from corrosion and gravel burn.

 

[Mace Canute]

I didn't mention that I have always sealed those screw connections with Vaseline and in the last few years I also spray with Rust Check film. I then thoroughly wrap the whole back end of the plug and the cable with electrical tape. On the big trucks I also covered that with brush-on electrical tape or brush-on contact cement (same stuff at half the price). Fluid film should work.

I agree, Rust Check works excellently on trailer plugs. Just a quick application once or twice a year and everything is good what with the creeping agent and water dispersant in it. I prefer it to any grease type barrier because it's so less messy.

 

[pat32rf]

Rust Check also works good in Ontario....Keeps the brass clean and connections good.

 

[pohorsky]

I wonder you could just get a blank plug, and just use that as a cover.

 

[SweBota]

Put the same kind of socket that is on the car on the trailer, they are usually better protected with some lid Then use a short removable coiled cable with a plug in each end for the interconnection, and remove that and store indoors or in the car when not in use. All new trailers use that principle here now. Easy to change, easy to repair. I keep a spare in the car as well.



/Marcus

 

[arrow]

Put the same kind of socket that is on the car on the trailer, they are usually better protected with some lid Then use a short removable coiled cable with a plug in each end for the interconnection, and remove that and store indoors or in the car when not in use. All new trailers use that principle here now. Easy to change, easy to repair. I keep a spare in the car as well.

View attachment 425905

/Marcus

Good yo know SB and thanks for the info. I "Battery Saver" sprayed the internal connections after I inserted them in the plug terminals with some grease on the twisted wire. I then squeezed some black, flexible gasket maker where the wire goes into the socket. After a month of steady use, it is holding up nicely.