Trailer question

[Mowbizz]

What size trailer for a Bx-24?

I have a BX24 also and I just bought a 6'2" x 12' EZ Dumper 10k trailer. I am tickled pink about the way the BX fits into the trailer. I drive into the trailer and the bucket rests on the front wall of the dump bed while the backhoe dangles (pinned, of course) perfectly over the barn door style tailgates. I will try to get some pics next time it's loaded up in the trailer. This way I have a dedicated trailer for the BX and the dump trailer to use all year long for whatever comes up.

 

[HVACDIESEL]

Thanks for all the good info.Hopefully I can squeeze on my 10' dump trailer.

 

[check]

There is a guy here saying he hauled his BX25 on a 10 foot trailer.

Yes, that's mew - will bring back a photo from the cottage after this weekend (which is Canadian Thanksgiving).

BTW, I will be buying trailer brakes for only about $300 (plus some wiring) from Princess Auto here in Torontothis week, which will up the GVWR to 3,500 lbs. This will be more than enough for the BX25, and one or more extra implements when I get them.

 

[KeithInSpace]

...buying trailer brakes...which will up the GVWR to 3,500 lbs.

Don't doubt you, but I get confused easily. How does adding brakes increase the capacity of a trailer?

Common theme is that trailers UNDER 3,000# or 3,500# capacity (depending on state) don't require brakes. Similarly, adding brakes to a trailer would not necessarilly increase the weight rating, which is permenantly affixed to the trailer frame and to the trailer title. At least not without some serious wrangling with the DOT.

Thought weight rating of trailers were more driven by axle and, most importantly, tire capacity than the presense of brakes.

Perhaps it's different in the tundra of Canada...tires are blocks of ice anyway...

Kidding.

I am curious, though, as to the thought process.

 

[check]

Don't doubt you, but I get confused easily. How does adding brakes increase the capacity of a trailer?

Common theme is that trailers UNDER 3,000# or 3,500# capacity (depending on state) don't require brakes. Similarly, adding brakes to a trailer would not necessarilly increase the weight rating, which is permenantly affixed to the trailer frame and to the trailer title. At least not without some serious wrangling with the DOT.

Thought weight rating of trailers were more driven by axle and, most importantly, tire capacity than the presense of brakes.

Perhaps it's different in the tundra of Canada...tires are blocks of ice anyway...

Kidding.

I am curious, though, as to the thought process.

The trailer was made with a 3500 lb. axle - the next size down is 2,000 lb. however, they could not rate it for 3500 because there were no brakes. (In Ontario you must have brakes for anything over 3,000 lb.) Today I went and picked up the brakes (actually, I bought the whole 3500 lb. axle assembly for $349, leaving me with a spare axle afterward), and will be installing probably this weekend. So now, for a $1300 price, plus $350 for brakes, I have a 3500 lb. GAWR trailer, which I was told would cost about $2500 today (since steel went up a lot in the last year).

Meanwhile, I have a trailer I can move around by hand, and yet it will carry my tractor safely!

I have attached a photo of the new BX25, just after it was loaded on the trailer after we bought it. As you can see, it fit on the 5' X 10' trailer quite nicely, and with the extended receiver hitch, there was enough clearance in front of the FEL so that the truck would not be scratched when turning a corner. As well, the trailer os low, which keeps the center of gravity low, and thus it was very stable on the road. (We just went a little ways, to my cottage, but it felt very good with my F150 as the tow vehicle.)

 

[check]

The trailer was made with a 3500 lb. axle - the next size down is 2,000 lb. however, they could not rate it for 3500 because there were no brakes. (In Ontario you must have brakes for anything over 3,000 lb.) Today I went and picked up the brakes (actually, I bought the whole 3500 lb. axle assembly for $349, leaving me with a spare axle afterward), and will be installing probably this weekend. So now, for a $1300 price, plus $350 for brakes, I have a 3500 lb. GAWR trailer, which I was told would cost about $2500 today (since steel went up a lot in the last year).

Meanwhile, I have a trailer I can move around by hand, and yet it will carry my tractor safely!

I have attached a photo of the new BX25, just after it was loaded on the trailer after we bought it. As you can see, it fit on the 5' X 10' trailer quite nicely, and with the extended receiver hitch, there was enough clearance in front of the FEL so that the truck would not be scratched when turning a corner. As well, the trailer os low, which keeps the center of gravity low, and thus it was very stable on the road. (We just went a little ways, to my cottage, but it felt very good with my F150 as the tow vehicle.)

Sorry, can't seem to post an attachment - will check it out and try again later.

 

[check]

Thanks for all the good info.Hopefully I can squeeze on my 10' dump trailer.

OKay, so here's how I fit my BX25 on a 5' X 10' trailer, with room to spare for the ramps.

 

[RobJ]

Perfect example Check of thats all you really need. Since most of the BX models have a bellymower, no problem there. And if you had something else, you can always put it in the back of the truck.

And you are also right that it's noce to have a trailer that you can move by hand or ATV. Tandom axle trailers can't really be moved by hand.

 

[KeithInSpace]

OKay, so here's how I fit my BX25 on a 5' X 10' trailer, with room to spare for the ramps.

Yup...that's about how I remember it fitting in my 5' x 10' 3,500# trailer.

Not that it isn't great and all...I do remember being able to shove around my old trailer by hand (an absolutely impossible thought with my big trailer,as Mr. RobJ points out)...but seeing that picture absolutely reminds me of why I got the 20' long trailer.

At least you have brakes...that's a big plus. And having the dump is wonderful. I'd have to take two trips to the dealership to have my mower deck serviced...that was a pain. And I never figured a way to make the trailer feel "good" behind my truck (2005 Expedition) with the tractor loaded. Wandered too much. Tires were too "squished".

Looks like you have a 5 foot long draw-bar on your truck (I'm exagerating, but that sucker has got to be at least 2 feet long...), maybe that helps with the "feel"...funny, though. I never had a problem with the possibility of scratching the truck. When I got my backhoe, I'd load it the other way, though. Seemed to load my tongue better than FEL first.

Dunno. It's just me, but I just wasn't comfortable towing my $20,000 machine on a trailer that 'just made it'. As nice as yours looks and all.

I'm just a fan of the safety factor...150%...towing a 3,000# machine means I MUST have a trailer capable of being loaded with 5,000# of payload...add the trailer weight and you are right there at 7,000# every time. And you get two whole entire extra tires added to the mix to boot.

 

[MarkV]

Not to criticize any of the creative ways some are hauling their tractors but many of them would not pass a DOT stop. To be totally in compliance when hauling a TLB both the loader and backhoe bucket must rest on the bed of the trailer and have their own chain, not strap, restraint. The tractor itself must be chained to four points.

DOT focuses on commercial users for the most part and let a lot of us home owners get a way with some violations. They do have the right to check and ticket anyone hauling a trailer and they do here at times. If you want to follow the letter of the law there is no way you can haul a BX on a 10’ trailer and meet the standards.

MarkV

 

[RobJ]

Not to criticize any of the creative ways some are hauling their tractors but many of them would not pass a DOT stop. To be totally in compliance when hauling a TLB both the loader and backhoe bucket must rest on the bed of the trailer and have their own chain, not strap, restraint. The tractor itself must be chained to four points.

DOT focuses on commercial users for the most part and let a lot of us home owners get a way with some violations. They do have the right to check and ticket anyone hauling a trailer and they do here at times. If you want to follow the letter of the law there is no way you can haul a BX on a 10 trailer and meet the standards.

MarkV

Got a link to those regs? Straps are used on everything down here. How about a 100' prop for a wind turbine? Got Straps??

 

[radioman]

sometimes that funny feeling can be eliminated with the weight distrubuting bars along with sway bar as well. try it. its helps with better handling as well.

 

[KeithInSpace]

Concur, Mr. Radioman...I run a WD hitch and love it.

 

[LBrown59]

Looks like you have a 5 foot long draw-bar on your truck (I'm exaggerating, but that sucker has got to be at least 2 feet long...), .

L . B .
Sure appears flimsy to me.
It looks like the tongue is sagging in the center.

 

[RobJ]

Concur, Mr. Radioman...I run a WD hitch and love it.

I think a Ford exp would not be the #1 choice for a tow vehicle, being a little shorter wheelbase and all. the new ones all have a longer wheelbase I think, not sure when the switch over was, before or after 2005?

The standard is 119" and the EL is 131". For comparision the Suburban is 130" and my F250 SD is 172"(CC, LB). 158" for a CC SB. I think I have the numbers right..

 

[KeithInSpace]

It's a Ford Expedition...not the Ford EXP, a 1980's 2-door derivative of the Ford Escort. That car didn't have towing CAPACITY, it actually moved better WHEN TOWED.

Kidding.

I totally agree that the short wheelbase Expedition is not the perfect tow vehicle. The new Expeditions are given a CHOICE of long vs. short wheelbase, a'la the Suburban vs. Tahoe. It isn't a "newer/older" thing. It doesn't do too bad, though. Not bad at all.

Interesting fact, though, is that I have to purchase a 3/4 ton Suburban with tow package to exceed the 9,000# tow capacity of my Expedition. The 1/2 ton models top out at 8,100# capacity.

Another interesting fact is that the Expedition EL (longer version) has a LOWER towing capacity than the "short" version (mine). Presumably because for an identical frame and powertrain system, there is more GVWR devoted to the VEHICLE than the trailer.

Didn't see myself towing a 10,000# trailer when I bought my Expedition. Suffice it to say that my next vehicle, if I bought right now, would be either a 3/4 ton Suburban 4x4 or some type of 3/4 or 1 ton pickup. I do tote the family around quite a bit, so I'd like to stick with some type of jumbo SUV.

 

[check]

L . B .
Sure appears flimsy to me.
It looks like the tongue is sagging in the center.

No sagging - that dip in the middle is where the ball connects. BTW the longer drawbar does reduce the towing capacity - down to 5,000 lb.

 

[MarkV]

Got a link to those regs? Straps are used on everything down here. How about a 100' prop for a wind turbine? Got Straps??

Rob I don't have a file on the regs and am to lazy to go looking for it. This is information I got from one of the DOT guys in the area. We have a good number of them around here because of all the pulp wood haulers in the area. Those guys push the limits often so are looked at closely.

From what I was told straps are fine for a load that does not have the possibility of suspension movement, which includes rubber tires. Everything else requires chains.

Also I am not trying to be the safety cop. I haul so little for such short distances that when I do I don't meet the regs myself. It just isn't worth the expense of a lager trailer for as little as I use it. Just wanted to point out to new users that even if you meet the weight restrictions of the trailer you are not necessarily legal. Most rural areas seem to be pretty lenient for non commercial users but I am sure some are not.

MarkV

 

[KeithInSpace]

...possibility of suspension movement...

I can't say exactly what the regulations are, but I personally don't think it is possible to safely transport one of these tractors for any distance with straps.

I carried mine to NC a couple of years ago, before I got the BH. It was in my old 3,500# 5'x10'. That trip was my last with that trailer...I didn't carry my tractor anywhere else until I got my new rig.

My point: I tied my tractor down with 2 extremely heavy duty (6,000# or something)ratchet straps and two smaller (1,500#) straps. By the time I made it to NC (under 4 hours), all but one of the straps were cut. I made certain they weren't resting on anything sharp, but even the rounded corners of my BoxBlade chewed through the strap...it wasn't even tight to the metal, just firmly resting against it as the strap was holding elsewhere.

If you can tie up a tractor and have the nylon strap touch ABSOLUTELY NOTHING (the only thing touching any type of wood or metal are the metal hooks), then I would think you're safe. Other than that, I think chains are the only way to safely transport.

Personal experience.

I think those blades are safe because there is nothing rubbing against the strap. That's the same for a great many things that are towed with straps...bricks (they use wood or cardboard bumpers), wood (same), and most any type of immobile object.

I have never seen any type of commercial construction equipment (which my job keeps me around pleanty) moved with anything but G70 chains. There's a reason for that.

 

[RobJ]

It's a Ford Expedition...not the Ford EXP, a 1980's 2-door derivative of the Ford Escort. That car didn't have towing CAPACITY, it actually moved better WHEN TOWED.

Kidding.

I totally agree that the short wheelbase Expedition is not the perfect tow vehicle. The new Expeditions are given a CHOICE of long vs. short wheelbase, a'la the Suburban vs. Tahoe. It isn't a "newer/older" thing. It doesn't do too bad, though. Not bad at all.

Interesting fact, though, is that I have to purchase a 3/4 ton Suburban with tow package to exceed the 9,000# tow capacity of my Expedition. The 1/2 ton models top out at 8,100# capacity.

Another interesting fact is that the Expedition EL (longer version) has a LOWER towing capacity than the "short" version (mine). Presumably because for an identical frame and powertrain system, there is more GVWR devoted to the VEHICLE than the trailer.

Didn't see myself towing a 10,000# trailer when I bought my Expedition. Suffice it to say that my next vehicle, if I bought right now, would be either a 3/4 ton Suburban 4x4 or some type of 3/4 or 1 ton pickup. I do tote the family around quite a bit, so I'd like to stick with some type of jumbo SUV.

Hey man my first tow vehicle was a 1980 Toyota Tercel!! I made a 4x7 big wheel trailer out of 1.5"x1/8" angle. Ply deck. I could clean an jerk it over my head!!(I was a bit younger and it was attached to the Tercel)). It only hauled my Yamaha YZ250J. 220# bike give or take.

I think the tow rating has to do with simple weight. If I recall the F250 super duty with the gasser v8 (remember from 1999 specs) was rated to tow more than the diesel. The difference was how much more the diesel engine weighed. I have no idea how they rate them now.

Rob