Trailer Questions

Runner · Dec 26, 2008

Hi all. I'm preparing to buy my first real utility trailer to haul my tractor, cars, etc. on. What I'm looking at right now is a (new) PJ, 20+5, deckover with (2) 7K axles, brakes on both axles. A couple of questions:

First, this thing has the "oil bath" hubs. I'm wondering if there is any downside to these hubs. I've read that they aren't good for trailers that sit a lot like this one probably will (presumably because the oil runs away from the bearings and leaves them exposed?). I also question what happens when the seals start to wear: with regular hubs, the grease will tend to stay in there even if the seals are a little worn, but I'm wondering if all the oil will just run out of the oil bath hubs as soon as the seals wear, i.e., maintenance problems?

Second, I will be towing with a 2004 F350. I have a brake controller (Tekonsha Prodigy), but have not installed it yet because I don't currently have any trailers with electric brakes (currently have two boat trailers, one with surge brakes, and small utility with no brakes).

My question is, what happens if I try to tow this trailer back from the dealer without a brake controller? I know the truck can stop it, but I'm wondering if I plug the 7-pin trailer plug into the standard Ford receptacle without a brake controller hooked up (so that I have lights), will it have an adverse effect on the trailer brake system or not (other than the brakes not working)?

I plan on hooking up the controller soon, but would like to be able to take my time on the install and adjustment, rather than rushing around with it if I decided to buy the trailer now.

The other option is to just hook up the brake controller, put in the fuse as necessary and lay the unit on the floor of the truck, but I'm not sure they are meant to work unless solidly mounted.

Thanks in advance for any guidance you may have on these topics.

Lunk · Dec 26, 2008

The last time I installed a trailer brake controller was on a 1997 Dodge. It, and on the '94 and '95 fords before it, was basically a plug and play job. There was a connector under the dash that the controller more or less plugged into. The biggest time waster was finding the exact spot I wanted to drill and mount the controller itself.

I don't think you'd hurt a thing by dragging the trailer home sans brakes, but I'm no expert.

As far as the "oil-bath" hubs - I haven't a clue. They're news to me. I would tend to agree with your assessment though, as perhaps they are designed for the daily, commercial type end-user, not the occasional hauler...

Good luck on your purchase. It sounds like you have enough trailer, and enough truck to pull it - A good start, IMHO.

Lunk

BarryinMN · Dec 26, 2008

I have a PJ 8x24 14K deckover. You can get molded adapters to match 4x7, 7x4, 7x6 etc for temp use. I use them to pull 2 wheel cargo trailers boat trailer, etc.

I also have the same controller it needs to be solidly mounted. Your truck is new enough it may have the controller wiring built into the dash harness & simply plugs in.

Always check the trailer brake engagement before hitting the road as an accidental lockup might not be good. You cannot see the tires from the mirrors like you can with a bobcat style trailer.

Mine has the grease zerk hubs as I am an occasional trailer puller. No opinion on the value of oil hubs on lighter trailers. I would comment that the WB is stretched & take deliberate wide sweeping turns to keep the trailer tires off the curbs

denmansoft · Dec 26, 2008

If you don't have the controller plugged in you just won't have any trailer brakes.
With your truck and if the empty weight of your trailer is < ~ #3000 you should be fine to bring it home empty.

Ditto on the prodigy (and most other newer controllers) needs to be solidly mounted. they sense the accelleration/deceleration of your vehicle and if you have your foot on the brake pedal they apply trailer brakes appropriately.

You will probably find you need to adjust the controller for empty trailer vs. loaded.

George2615 · Dec 26, 2008

I'll agree with your statement that oil bath hubs may not be good for your application where it is going to sit around most of the time.

Towing it home from the dealer empty will not be a problem. You'll just have to leave extra stopping distance since the truck brakes will be doing all the work. It will have no adverse effect on the trailer since the braking wire from the truck won't be applying any power. The 7 pin plug will only be supplying brake lighting and turn signals.

You can hook up the controller anytime. The only time you will need it hooked up is when you have a load on the trailer. Empty, the truck will be able to stop the extra 2000 lb or so behind you.

I don't know if or how your state inspects trailers when you register them. If they require an inspection the controller will have to be installed and actually work the brakes.

The controller must be mounted in order to work since it has a motion or inertia detector inside that senses the movement of the truck slowing down which applies graduated voltage to the trailer brakes as needed. Once mounted it may need to be adjusted / calibrated for each trailer you hook up that has brakes. If its just sitting on the floor it could fall off the center hump making it think the trailer needs full voltage and lock up the trailer brakes.

farmboy12 · Dec 26, 2008

Dad hangs the controller by wrapping the cord around the steering wheel. That way, you can change the position of it. Left hand-right hand control, setting it on your lap, laying it on the floor when not in use, etc.

Kyle

Builder · Dec 26, 2008

I know oil bath hubs on big truck axles are considered an upgrade. I think if you just bump your trailer a 1/2 wheel rotation once in a while, the seals will stay soft.

Diamondpilot · Dec 26, 2008

denmansoft said:
If you don't have the controller plugged in you just won't have any trailer brakes.
With your truck and if the empty weight of your trailer is < ~ #3000 you should be fine to bring it home empty.

Ditto on the prodigy (and most other newer controllers) needs to be solidly mounted. they sense the accelleration/deceleration of your vehicle and if you have your foot on the brake pedal they apply trailer brakes appropriately.

You will probably find you need to adjust the controller for empty trailer vs. loaded.

I have actually seen some trucks lock up the trailer brakes with some trucks with no controller. I am not sure if it was a miss match with the trailer and truck or what but I would just install it before you go get the trailer, you are going to end up doing it one way or the other. By the way the oil bath is the way to go on a trailer like that.

Chris

Runner · Dec 26, 2008

Guys,

Thanks for the responses. Probably should just fab up my bracket and mount the controller before I pick it up (if I get it). Guess I'm also a little worried that I will have to be learning how to adjust the brake settings and stuff on the fly and I'd hate to screw something up on the drive home (25 miles or so) if I get it wrong.

Here's a couple of pics of the unit I'm considering. Way more trailer than I need, but I like it anyway.

davkir · Dec 26, 2008

I agree it would be safer to have your controller on and ready to go first. Most of the trailers I have purchased were used and it seems like there always is some sort of minor wiring/brake problem. The guys at the trailer place would probably be happy to help you out if needed since you bought a new trailer from them.
I take any new trailer/truck/controller combination I get out in the country to a road with no traffic (well, for me that is were I live). Spend 30 minutes or so "experimenting" with the setup and you will quickly get a feel for the adjustments. (Be careful not to overheat the brakes as the adjustment is somewhat temperature sensitive).
Then when you have it loaded, it's pretty easy to dial in the appropriate settings.
That's a great looking trailer!