rdln
Veteran Member
Landscape trailers usually have welded on side rails, this makes it a real pain to forklift palletized material onto the sides.
Trailer selection....
- Thread starter pashworth
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Dargo
Super Member
- Joined
- Mar 6, 2004
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- 5,981
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- S. IN
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- Jinma, Foton, TYM, Belarus, Yanmar, Branson, Montana, Mahindra and maybe some green and orange too.
I had an 18' HD trailer and it was WAY too small for my 5030. By the time I had a loader on it and a bush hog, I was hanging 4' off the end of the trailer with the bucket 18" over the front! /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif
I ended up buying a 25' gooseneck trailer with two 7000 pound axles with brakes on each. Believe it or not, but it is none too big. As someone pointed out, you have to subtract the entire trailer weight from the overall weight rating of your axles to get the amount you can carry. My 25' trailer weighs nearly 5000 pounds empty. That leaves me with a 9000 pound carrying capacity. Adequate, but definitely not too big!
Also, as mentioned several times, the mesh ramp will be a joke for you. I had a buddy borrow a smaller 890 JD tractor and pick it up with a trailer like you are considering. Upon first loading the tractor, he absolutely ruined the weak mesh fold up ramp. He was told that his mesh ramp was "extra heavy duty". Maybe so, but that means it can handle around 2000 pounds or so.
I ended up buying a 25' gooseneck trailer with two 7000 pound axles with brakes on each. Believe it or not, but it is none too big. As someone pointed out, you have to subtract the entire trailer weight from the overall weight rating of your axles to get the amount you can carry. My 25' trailer weighs nearly 5000 pounds empty. That leaves me with a 9000 pound carrying capacity. Adequate, but definitely not too big!
Also, as mentioned several times, the mesh ramp will be a joke for you. I had a buddy borrow a smaller 890 JD tractor and pick it up with a trailer like you are considering. Upon first loading the tractor, he absolutely ruined the weak mesh fold up ramp. He was told that his mesh ramp was "extra heavy duty". Maybe so, but that means it can handle around 2000 pounds or so.
RobertN
Super Member
I'll toss in my 2 cents...
My B8200 is about the same size and weight as your B7800. I do not have a backhoe, but do have a rotary mower(longest implement) as well as a FEL.
I run a 16' 7000lb dual axle trailer. I have ladder ramps that stow on the side of the trailer(actually slide in from the side, in rails under the trailer).
Some notes from my couple years of use:
It handles everything I need. I can haul the tractor, PHD, scraper, and mower all together. When I do, I load the mower to the front, and let the FEL rest on it.
When my mower is onthe tractor, and I'm centered for weight balance, the tail wheel does hang over...
The trailer does everything I need for my CUT. The only time I have run in to issues, is hauling other peoples stuff... I have had to say no because someone else wanted to haul something heavy.
I have brakes on one axle. I am going to add brakes on the second axle. Although my CUT does not weigh that much, I would like the extra braking.
Mine weighs 1600lbs. That gives me a 5400lb capacity. My CUT is well below that(I added numbers and figured less than 3000lbs).
Some things to think about when you get a trailer:
Most trailers are really bare; you gotta add to them...
Make sure and get a spare. Most do not come with them. It will probably need a spare tire mount too... Not much is worse than having a flat with no spare...
Make sure you have a lug wrench to fit. It is probably different than your truck. It is worse to have a flat, and not be able to change it because you can not get thelug nuts off...
Add hooks and tie downs right away. Mine is set up with chain loops. They are "C" channel frame material welded to the trailer sides. Works, but I still want to add "D" rings in better places. Also, there are no hooks for tying ropes. I haul other stuff too. Rope hooks would be nice(I have a bunch to put on when I get time). A hook is a lot nicer to tie hitches on than a "d" ring or other loop.
Check in to jacks or bars to stablize the trailer when loading. When I have my stowable ladder ramps set on the back, there is still no support for the back of the trailer. When I load, all the weight of the tractor pushes donw on the back of the trailer, making the front want to rise, and make the back of the truck light.
Your prices are high. I Paid $1650 for mine new. Mine is a Carson brand.
My B8200 is about the same size and weight as your B7800. I do not have a backhoe, but do have a rotary mower(longest implement) as well as a FEL.
I run a 16' 7000lb dual axle trailer. I have ladder ramps that stow on the side of the trailer(actually slide in from the side, in rails under the trailer).
Some notes from my couple years of use:
It handles everything I need. I can haul the tractor, PHD, scraper, and mower all together. When I do, I load the mower to the front, and let the FEL rest on it.
When my mower is onthe tractor, and I'm centered for weight balance, the tail wheel does hang over...
The trailer does everything I need for my CUT. The only time I have run in to issues, is hauling other peoples stuff... I have had to say no because someone else wanted to haul something heavy.
I have brakes on one axle. I am going to add brakes on the second axle. Although my CUT does not weigh that much, I would like the extra braking.
Mine weighs 1600lbs. That gives me a 5400lb capacity. My CUT is well below that(I added numbers and figured less than 3000lbs).
Some things to think about when you get a trailer:
Most trailers are really bare; you gotta add to them...
Make sure and get a spare. Most do not come with them. It will probably need a spare tire mount too... Not much is worse than having a flat with no spare...
Make sure you have a lug wrench to fit. It is probably different than your truck. It is worse to have a flat, and not be able to change it because you can not get thelug nuts off...
Add hooks and tie downs right away. Mine is set up with chain loops. They are "C" channel frame material welded to the trailer sides. Works, but I still want to add "D" rings in better places. Also, there are no hooks for tying ropes. I haul other stuff too. Rope hooks would be nice(I have a bunch to put on when I get time). A hook is a lot nicer to tie hitches on than a "d" ring or other loop.
Check in to jacks or bars to stablize the trailer when loading. When I have my stowable ladder ramps set on the back, there is still no support for the back of the trailer. When I load, all the weight of the tractor pushes donw on the back of the trailer, making the front want to rise, and make the back of the truck light.
Your prices are high. I Paid $1650 for mine new. Mine is a Carson brand.
jeffinsgf
Veteran Member
This is off topic, and I don't intend to start a "brand war", but I am amazed at how far off the back of the tractor that backhoe is. My JD 4410/48 is much tighter. I would think the stress would be much higher hanging that far off the back.
rmonio
Platinum Member
Nice trailer, Henro... I've got the 20' version of the same ABU trailer. I'm glad I went with the 20' as I've needed the extra 2' for my JD4600 plus implements (and other things).
/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
-Bob
/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
-Bob
twinstackram
Silver Member
I got a 16' tandem last yr,mainly just for mower,which was a Honda RT5000 at the time,but I wanted a trailer to do other things if I needed it,if I need a bigger trailer I can get my Dads 32' gooseneck (which can still be overkill for alot of things) and it's a trailer you can't take just anywhere,almost like driving a semi.
But when you start looking at trailers you have some cheap ones,I can get a 16' tandem here for $799.00,alot of trailers look alot alike,I would look under the trailer to check out the crossmembers and how many there are,how big the frame rails are.
I think one of the bigger items when looking at trailers of that size 16' to 18' is the tongue, always make sure you get a wrap around tongue,this will make a bigger difference than you can imagine,just look at the difference of the two and you'll see what I'm talking about.
And fold up ramps or hideaway ramps is the only way to go.
and I always like putting a few lights on the side,it lets you know that your lights are getting power,and your plug to the truck is o.k. and you can hook them up to your turn signals also,kinda helps let you know that everything is working o.k.
But when you start looking at trailers you have some cheap ones,I can get a 16' tandem here for $799.00,alot of trailers look alot alike,I would look under the trailer to check out the crossmembers and how many there are,how big the frame rails are.
I think one of the bigger items when looking at trailers of that size 16' to 18' is the tongue, always make sure you get a wrap around tongue,this will make a bigger difference than you can imagine,just look at the difference of the two and you'll see what I'm talking about.
And fold up ramps or hideaway ramps is the only way to go.
and I always like putting a few lights on the side,it lets you know that your lights are getting power,and your plug to the truck is o.k. and you can hook them up to your turn signals also,kinda helps let you know that everything is working o.k.
edski
Gold Member
- Joined
- Mar 15, 2005
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- 275
- Location
- Northern Panhandle of Pennsyltuckey
- Tractor
- Kubota B7610 TLB & MF 253
I just purchased an 18' 12K trailer for $3300.
Top Brand Trailer
It will be used primarily for hauling a B7610 (TLB). While this may seem like overkill, I figured since my truck can easily haul 12K (Dmax diesel) there was no reason to go lighter. The 10K was $300 less. Also, I have no need for their Construction series because I won't tow it every day (or week for that matter).
Bottom line, take your tow vehicle into consideration also when making a selection.
Top Brand Trailer
It will be used primarily for hauling a B7610 (TLB). While this may seem like overkill, I figured since my truck can easily haul 12K (Dmax diesel) there was no reason to go lighter. The 10K was $300 less. Also, I have no need for their Construction series because I won't tow it every day (or week for that matter).
Bottom line, take your tow vehicle into consideration also when making a selection.
Highbeam
Super Member
Please clarify what a wrap around tongue is. On the tandem axle trailers, is the general consensus that you need to have both axles equipped with brakes? I see some manufactures selling them without any brakes and some with a single brake axle, the best with both, and all offering brakes as an option.
Of course I would rather have all axles braking but must I?
Of course I would rather have all axles braking but must I?
Highbeam
Super Member
Another question... Do you folks utilize weight distribution hitches with these trailers. Since a class three hitch can only take 500 lbs of tongue weight without a WD system and 1000 with, and a 7000 lb trailer puts no less than 10% or 700 lbs of weight on the tongue, it would seem to be a must.
Indydirtfarmer
Platinum Member
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Please clarify what a wrap around tongue is. On the tandem axle trailers, is the general consensus that you need to have both axles equipped with brakes? I see some manufactures selling them without any brakes and some with a single brake axle, the best with both, and all offering brakes as an option.
Of course I would rather have all axles braking but must I? )</font>
In my home state, any trailer/truck/cargo combination that scales over 10,000lbs MUST have ALL axles with brakes.
After towing trailers since I was a kid. I wouldn't even consider doing it WITHOUT brakes on all wheels.
Of course I would rather have all axles braking but must I? )</font>
In my home state, any trailer/truck/cargo combination that scales over 10,000lbs MUST have ALL axles with brakes.
After towing trailers since I was a kid. I wouldn't even consider doing it WITHOUT brakes on all wheels.
