Trailer Sway, any thoughts?

[Dave___in___CT]

Hi...


Experienced the same problem with my Dodge 2500 (diesel)... 18' 2-axle 10,000 GVW trailer... Kubota L3130 w/ loader & backhoe...

Scary/dangerous say when loaded bucket-end 1st... /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

Little sway when I load the tractor backwards (backhoe towards truck)...

As mentioned... measured hitch-to-ground before loading... and made sure it dropped ~1 1/2" after loading...


Also...
Road conditions... speed... curves... add to the mix...


Good tips !


Dave...

 

[gsganzer]

Swaying is usually caused by the trailer not being level. Either the hitch is too high or too low. I've had the same problem with a boat trailer. I changed the hitch height and the problem was fixed.

 

[hfd376]

Thanks for the info, I tow my BX1800 et al on a 16' tandem axel trailer. I always back it on and watch the back end of the truck for a little squat. I never have any swaying problems, and just making sure it stays that way!

Doug

 

[Darren]

As one of the posters stated a weight equalizing hitch will make a big difference. Another option used with one of those hitches is an anti-sway device that looks like a long shock absorber that mounts on the hitch and runs back to the trailer. It resists the side to side sway.

Years ago I built a triple axle trailer and for maneuverability placed the axles near the center of the trailer. Talk about the tail wagging the dog, the first time I put that on the road, unloaded, I wasn't sure I was going to survive. You had to keep the steering wheel motionless on straights and in curves make any change gradually. Any jerkiness in the steering wheel resulted in the trailer violently vearing from side to side. Until I got things under control, I had a big chunk of the vinyl seat sucked up my butt. My pucker factor was off the scale that day. I made a trip of a thousand miles and left grip marks in the steering wheel.

Before the return trip I added the equalizing hitch and the anti-sway device. The return trip was a pleasure.

 

[fctadam]

Thanks you guys are the best. I had a feeling that tongue weight was the issue. I will try backing it on and see what happens. I think the added weight of the backhoe hanging off the rear is the probelm.

You guys are the best.

 

[cwa]

Just an FYI. I have a similar setup trailer and truck wise with about the same tractor weight.

I used the local scales to set my tounge weight to 1000lbs which sinks the tail of the truck about 2 1/2 inches, the truck looks just level front to rear at that point. My truck is a Ram 2500 also but it is 4wd, not sure if that makes a difference.

The rear tractor tires are over the forward trailer axle to get the tongue weight.

I'm curious to hear how backing the tractor on works for you, ie does the backhoe fit etc.

Also, if you dont have easy access to truck scales, this may help:
Determing Trailer Weight

 

[dummy]

<font color="blue"> I used the local scales to set my tounge weight to 1000lbs which sinks the tail of the truck about 2 1/2 inches, the truck looks just level front to rear at that point. </font> A little disruption here. That's a lot of tongue weight. Hopefully you're running all class IV equipment including the right balls and drops. Weight distribution hitches help, but do not override the right stuff. Soapbox off. [image]http://[/image]

 

[johnday]

Your problem could be tongue weight, but I'll bet your trailer isn't level, is it. I have a 12000# MacLander, when I bought it the coupler was adjusted as low as it would go. Not too level behind a 250 Superduty 4times4. The trailer handled like crap, swaying at around 50 and jariing your fillings loose it rode so hard. This has happened before with other trailers of mine so I just kept the speed down on the way home. Broke out the wrenches and raised the coupler to level the trailer. Both your axles should be evenly on the ground. You said it looked like you could raise your ball about 2". Please try this before you go out and spend several hundred bucks on an equalizing hitch, sway control, and whatever else. I just can't imagine a truck like yours can't handle this trailer. I marked on my trailer bed where to stop the tractor when the rear of the truck sags about 1 1/2". Beleive me, theres not much worse than the way some idiots drag trailers around. Try this and let us know how it turns out, the primary concern here is for everyones safety, yours and the other drivers. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

 

[cwa]

Thanks for pointing that out. I guess I should have included the fact that I had to upgrade the hitch, drawbar and trailer coupler in my post above. The stock towing package includes only a class III hitch.

I had to go with a class V hitch, drawbar etc. to get the safety margin I wanted.

What I have now does ok but I hope to upgrade to a gooseneck setup at some point. I am told they pull better and tend to be safer under heavy loads.

 

[Joe1]

Johnday

Not to beat a dead horse, but I still believe that the level of the trailer changes the hitch weight. Look at a single axle trailer for example. When empty and level, the hitch may weigh 100 lbs. Tip the trailer tongue up high enough, and in many cases, the trailer will sit on its tail gate end witht he hitch unsupported in the air. Conversely, tip it down and it's harder to lift off the ground.

Nothing has changed, the empty trailer still weights the same, Level, the tongue drops from the weight, yet lift it and the tongue has no weight.

On the road, the uneven high front low rear attitude results in less than adequate tongue weight.

Fifth wheel trailers tow so well in part due to the high tongue weight.

Again, my two cents.

Joe