Trailer Tie Down Point Question

surfran · Apr 7, 2005

OK since Dargo had his wild ride and Spring if finally starting to hit NY I have finally (after 2 years) decided to go out and buy a new trailer that is sized to better trailer by BX1800.

I am picking up a 14' Tandem Axle 7000lb rated trailer this weekend so I was at TSC last night looking at tie down stuff.

While looking over everything, I started looking at the tie down rings in various configurations. I saw a few types that were rated for 5000lbs, but they appeared to just bolt down through the wood deck.

So my question is 2 3/8" carriage bolts (of course grade 8) through pressure treated lumber enough to hold the 5000lbs? I was thinking either large washers or even better a bracket between the bolts on the underside would also be needed.

Attached is a picture of one of the ones I was looking at.

Any comments?

Dargo · Apr 7, 2005

Hi, Mr. Paranoid here. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif I would think that you would mount those tie downs on your wood deck right over the top of one of the pieces of angle that run laterally across your trailer deck. That way it would be through your wood and through a piece of steel angle. Would that work for you? It seems like it would hold more that way. I'm just thinking that you can pull them through the wood too easily. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

SnowRidge · Apr 7, 2005

Is the 5000 lbs breaking strength or working load? Unless it specifically says 5000 lbs working load, I would derate them substantially.

I prefer stout backing plates over fender washers myself, 'cause nothing too strong ever broke. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

Indydirtfarmer · Apr 7, 2005

( OK since Dargo had his wild ride and Spring if finally starting to hit NY I have finally (after 2 years) decided to go out and buy a new trailer that is sized to better trailer by BX1800.

I am picking up a 14' Tandem Axle 7000lb rated trailer this weekend so I was at TSC last night looking at tie down stuff.

While looking over everything, I started looking at the tie down rings in various configurations. I saw a few types that were rated for 5000lbs, but they appeared to just bolt down through the wood deck.

So my question is 2 3/8" carriage bolts (of course grade 8) through pressure treated lumber enough to hold the 5000lbs? I was thinking either large washers or even better a bracket between the bolts on the underside would also be needed.

Attached is a picture of one of the ones I was looking at.

Any comments? )

All I can comment on is the way things are where I'm located... And that would involve the Kentucky State Vehicle Enforcement Div. and/or Indiana Dept. of Trans. Motor Vehicle Inspection Officers... /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

They wouldn't take too kindly to ANY bolt-on attachment points. With the weight of your truck, trailer, and tractor, I'm sure you'd be over 10,000 lbs GVW. That's the magic number here. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

Chains (4 seperate chains, at 4 corners, 2 more per each impliment, regardless of the fact it's attached to the tractor, Grade 70 "binder chains" only, with approved (read turn-buckle style) binders, and NO nylon tie-down straps REGARDLESS of their rating) D-rings MUST be welded on, and are subject to interpretation of the officer as to their "legality". /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Also, if there's a loader on the tractor, a SEPERATE chain must be securing that. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

BTDT, got the (major) citation..... /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

The "law" is after "lawn care operators" who use trailers with side rails, and don't tie down their cargo primarily. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

Fungus · Apr 7, 2005

( So my question is 2 3/8" carriage bolts (of course grade 8) through pressure treated lumber enough to hold the 5000lbs?)

NO WAY!

( I was thinking either large washers or even better a bracket between the bolts on the underside would also be needed.)

That would help but IMHO this arrangement will provide a tie point far less in capacity than 5K. Also, what’s holding that piece of PT wood to the trailer? Probably just a couple of deck screws – not a whole lot!

Attach your tie downs to the trailer frame. If your trailer does not have any features to support this have some welded onto it.

surfran · Apr 7, 2005

Dargo,

Yes if the ability to go through the cross members is there I will definately do that, but until I get the trailer and load up the BX to determine locations I won't know for sure.

I was just trying to pick peoples brains ahead of time to find out what the thought is. They sell these items as tie downs with ratings but don't show you any information on actually attaching the units.

I also forgot to mention I am buying an Aluminum trailer which may make some differnce on attaching as well (especially if welding as mentioned by Indydirtfarmer is needed).

Snowridge, you are correct that it appears that the working load is much less than rated load. Here is the Northern link to the one I showed and it states 11000lb rated then in the notes says 4080 working limit.

Northern Link

But still what are my options to attach tie down points other than welding, bolting through side rails/frame members.

The last thing I want is to end up finding out during a situation (which I hope to never experience again /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif) that my choice was not correct.

Darren · Apr 7, 2005

I prefer trailers with what's called a rub rail. That gives you the capability of a tie down at any point along the side for chains or straps. Since you're already committed to purchasing the trailer, I'd consider either welding on D rings after you figure out a configuration for what you're planning to haul or having a shop install a rub rail.

TSC also sells goosenecks that should have a rub rail if you want to look at it.

surfran · Apr 7, 2005

What's a rub rail? The unit I am buying is a landscape style with rails, but I don't think that is what you talking about. Attached is a picture of the unit.

Also here is a TBN link to another member (John Sr) who purchased one last year although his is the 16'.

JohnSr Trailer

Indydirtfarmer · Apr 7, 2005

( I prefer trailers with what's called a rub rail. That gives you the capability of a tie down at any point along the side for chains or straps. Since you're already committed to purchasing the trailer, I'd consider either welding on D rings after you figure out a configuration for what you're planning to haul or having a shop install a rub rail.

TSC also sells goosenecks that should have a rub rail if you want to look at it. )

THERE'S my way of doing things! With the rub rail, you always have the option of tying ANYTHING down, with no limitations as to the tye point. With almost every impliment I use/load on my trailer (behind the tractor) I place it in a different spot. (centering weight)

bczoom · Apr 7, 2005

I just got a 18' trailer but haven't hauled the tractor yet.

I have a nice rail across the front but no rub rail on the sides. Can a rail be made to bolt into the stake pockets or do I need to weld? How strong are the stake pockets themselves if I used a grab hook on a chain?

Personally, I don't like the D-Rings mounted to the side of the trailer frame. If they're not in use, they make a lot of racket when bouncing against the trailer side.