trailer tie downs

[RobertN]

Now, I set a chain and bind each corner of the tractor independantly . I have extra chain/binders for the loader/other implements. That is required for California.

Other states vary in requirements.

When I didn't know any better, I loaded the tractor on the trailer, then set a chain from the left rear of the trailer, through the drawbar, and over to the right rear of the trailer. Then, I'd pull it tight with the tractor and set the brake. Then I put a chain on the left front of the trailer, ran it thru the loader frame and over to the right front of the trailer and tightened it with a binder. That is a ticket in California... I never had anything loosen up on me, but if either chain had failed, the tractor would have been loose.

The extra chain and binders were a small overall investment compared to the $$$ tied up in truck/tractor/trailer. I do not have anything fancy, but it still cost $$$.

And, a ticket and resulting insurance rate change would cost more than extra chain and binders too...

As I mentioned earlier, the best thing is to contact your state troopers office. Regulations vary state to state. In my case, the CHP was very helpful by both email and phone.

I'll have to look around. I had some pictures on one of these threads of my tractor on the trailer...

 

[AndyG]

I use the 10,000 lb straps with 3500 working load mostly due to cost. I can buy 4 straps for the price of one chain & boomer. I do double up on the straps some even though I don't have to. Of course they are easier on paint when I haul my antiques like Soundguy and they do have a little bit of give to them which can be a good thing. I believe that both chains and straps are good ways to secure the load if they are used properly. Of course you must protect the straps from sharp edges. I usually use scraps of carpet under the strap to protect it from an edge. The most important rule for either method is to have them TIGHT!!!! If there is slack in the chain or strap you will increase the loading in a hard stop exponentially. When you have the strap/chain tight it is holding a static load. If the strap/chain is slack the tractor can roll a little bit. When the strap/chain has to stop the rolling load the strain on it is much higher than if it were simply holding a static load. There is a tremendous shock load placed on the strap/chain if the load jerks it because it was not kept tight. I always stop after about a mile and recheck all of my straps in case the load has settled or shifted a little bit. I always make a trip around the load when I stop for something to check the straps but seldom need to tighten after the first time. Get the straps/chains tight and keep them that way!

 

[npaden]

I'm another one that has had the tie down straps break. They were brand new straps on their maiden voyage. They were very tight and I checked them several times. They didn't fray or degrade over time, they were brand new straps and snapped when I hit a bump and the trailer flexed. They were 10,000 lb rated straps and my tractor only weighed 5,000 lbs.

I now use 3/8" G 70 chains and binders but only 2 chains, 1 for the front and 1 for the back.

FWIW, Nathan

 

[Soundguy]

The 2x rating may have been the issue. I like my straps to be rated 3x the load.. that way they can handle more of a shock load.

Soundguy

 

[Farmwithjunk]

First priority, be safe. Next, be legal.

Here's what keeps my tractor on the trailer, and keeps Kentucky Commercial Vehicle Enforcement Officers smiling.

Grade 70 binder chain with ratchet binder pulling forward. It pass's through O.E.M. weight bracket. Hook ends through stake pockets on rub rail.

Grade 70 binder chain through rear drawbar bracket, hook ends through stake pockets on rub rail. Ratchet binder.

Grade 70 binder chain over bush hog, pulling slightly forward, in back of gear box, with ratchet binder. Hook ends through stake pockets on rub rail.

Chains get replaced every 3 or 4 years.

Scratches get touched up now and then.

 

[Dargo]

I use the 10,000 lb straps with 3500 working load mostly due to cost. I can buy 4 straps for the price of one chain & boomer. <snip> The most important rule for either method is to have them TIGHT!!!! If there is slack in the chain or strap you will increase the loading in a hard stop exponentially. When you have the strap/chain tight it is holding a static load.

You are right on your thinking but wrong on your execution. I have 100% proof that two 10k straps with a WLL of 3500 can and will snap even when tight on a trailer. I had a 10K car trailer with a 7k tractor on it. I used two of the exact straps you described on the front and two on the back with no part of the straps in contact with any edge. A dip in the road caused the trailer to flex. That flex immediately snapped both front straps and the tractor began to exit stage rear. If you've ever had negative tongue weight at 55 mph, you know how much fun that was.

I not only have converted to all chain, but have changed trailers to one strong enough to not flex with my loads. I still have the straps because they are cheap. I use them to secure non-rolling loads. Before my experience with new 10k straps snapping, you would have never have convinced me that they were insufficient. Now you will never convince me that they are even remotely safe. If you are concerned about paint damage, you can buy 25k nylon slings from towing companies with accompanying 25k "D" rings. You wrap those 25K slings around your axles and then your grade 70 chain through the "D" ring and secure with your choice of binder. The recovery slings have a WLL of 25,000 and as long as they are not in contact with sharp items and you don't store them for extended periods of time in the sun, they will last for years.

I'm not the morality or safety police here, but I am the guy who nearly lost everything last year because I was hard headed and believed what was written on those straps and, up until my incident, had no problems. I have no intention of losing my tractor, trailer, truck, and everything else I've worked for in my life to save $100 or so in securing my $35k tractor properly. Good luck and be safe!

 

[Soundguy]

. I have 100% proof that two 10k straps with a WLL of 3500 can and will snap even when tight on a trailer. I had a 10K car trailer with a 7k tractor on it. I used two of the exact straps you described on the front and two on the back with no part of the straps in contact with any edge. !

You were using the wrong straps... 3500# wll straps on a 7k tractor.. even doubled up.. you are right at the limit. I like 3x overrating. It's easy to get 2-ply 2" straps, 3" and 4" 1 ply or 2 ply from an industrial supply store.

At work we move concrete pipe alot.. We buy double ply 2-3-4" stuff all the time. You can get wll in the 20000# range for similar money as good chain and a binder.

All our concrete pipe deliver trucks use ratched binders and straps... the good ones.. We are talking delivers of 70000# of pipe.. etc...

The little chinese store / tsc / walmart single ply poly straps that are commonly used ( or even the nylon ones ) are simply not strong enough.

I like the multi-ply 2" or 3" straps.. Again.. they are not much more than buying a couple cheap 2" single ply poly straps.. or nylon straps..


Soundguy