Trailer wieght capacity(3500lb axle vs 7000)

[LHS Inc]

I appreciate the comment, but I know that it isn't a complete list of considerations. Those are, to me, the most important things to think about because they were the major parts of deciding on what trailer would best suit my needs.

You'll notice that I didn't include things like trailer "features" (I *really* wanted the CAM with the fork bracket option, but it was a lot more expensive than my Anderson and I couldn't justify the cost), dealer experience (for new trailers), or the ultimate deciding factor - cost.

The biggest thing that I learned when shopping for my trailer is that there are a number of different variables that need to be considered together as a whole since some variables will affect others if you change their values.

When I got the 18 footer I didn't have a specifc tractor in mind, I just thot it would be more than enough weight wise and it is.

All the implements I need for lawn/landscaping have fit on the trailer great with room to balance the load.

I just got lucky except for the bushhog.

Living and learning gets me a 22' trailer maybe this Fall if the rains keep coming and the grass keeps growing.

 

[meburdick]

You just made me think of one of those sort of "changing one variable affects another" items...

My trailer is available in five different lengths: 12', 14', 16', 18', 20'. The length of the trailer has a direct impact on the trailer weight, and that has an indirect impact on the cargo capacity.

Since capacity is gross weight minus trailer weight, increasing the trailer weight by adding length (and not changing the GTWR) will reduce capacity. The 12' trailer weighs 2575lbs. Each 2' increase in length adds 50lbs to the trailer weight, ending at 20' where the trailer weight is 2775lbs. While the 20' trailer can FIT things that are longer than what will fit on the 12', the actual cargo capacity of the 20' trailer is 200lbs LESS than it is on the 12' trailer.

 

[Diamondpilot]

You just made me think of one of those sort of "changing one variable affects another" items...

My trailer is available in five different lengths: 12', 14', 16', 18', 20'. The length of the trailer has a direct impact on the trailer weight, and that has an indirect impact on the cargo capacity.

Since capacity is gross weight minus trailer weight, increasing the trailer weight by adding length (and not changing the GTWR) will reduce capacity. The 12' trailer weighs 2575lbs. Each 2' increase in length adds 50lbs to the trailer weight, ending at 20' where the trailer weight is 2775lbs. While the 20' trailer can FIT things that are longer than what will fit on the 12', the actual cargo capacity of the 20' trailer is 200lbs LESS than it is on the 12' trailer.

I know its 200# less but I would rather be 200# overweight any day of the week with a properly balanced load than at max weight with a load that is balanced poorly.

Chris

 

[Diamondpilot]

You just made me think of one of those sort of "changing one variable affects another" items...

My trailer is available in five different lengths: 12', 14', 16', 18', 20'. The length of the trailer has a direct impact on the trailer weight, and that has an indirect impact on the cargo capacity.

Since capacity is gross weight minus trailer weight, increasing the trailer weight by adding length (and not changing the GTWR) will reduce capacity. The 12' trailer weighs 2575lbs. Each 2' increase in length adds 50lbs to the trailer weight, ending at 20' where the trailer weight is 2775lbs. While the 20' trailer can FIT things that are longer than what will fit on the 12', the actual cargo capacity of the 20' trailer is 200lbs LESS than it is on the 12' trailer.

I know its 200# less but I would rather be 200# overweight any day of the week with a properly balanced load than at max weight with a load that is balanced poorly.

Chris

 

[lilranch2001]

Grand L with loader, ballast, fuel, chains etc can get up to 6000# so you need at least 10 to 12k, may as well get the 14k

Agreed.
Maybe if you were gonna trailer it once ona light duty trailer is one thing, but back and forth?
Dont even think about it, you will either destroy the trailer, or kill someone

 

[meburdick]

I know its 200# less but I would rather be 200# overweight any day of the week with a properly balanced load than at max weight with a load that is balanced poorly.

Chris

I would say I think the same... Was just pointing out that you have to be aware of how changing one variable often times changes another. This is essentially why I bought the trailer that I did. I was looking at a 7k trailer that was built like a tank. Because it was so solid, the 18' version of it had only about 4700lbs of capacity for cargo. So, I stepped up to a 10k trailer where I can haul roughly 7300 lbs.

 

[pat32rf]

Diamondpilot should repeat that again, just in case someone missed it!!!
I have a converted boat trailer with tandem 7000# axles and an extending tonque. Used it to occasionally carry 60hp tractors behind 1/2 tons and carried my JD4300 behind my Grand Cherokee on a weekly basis. Had it checked by a friend at the MTO and the only problem he could find was a questionable safety chain.
I can balance the load so my tonque weight is whatever I want it to be and its easy to forget its back there when its loaded. I seldom tow on 4lane roads but often on 2lane hilly routes as well as gravel roads. Present TV is a full sized 1/2 ton....but I've used that trailer for twenty years behind 5 different tow vehicles

 

[gumshu]

Grand L with loader, ballast, fuel, chains etc can get up to 6000# so you need at least 10 to 12k, may as well get the 14k

Ditto! Why not go with the 14K... especially with a grand L and attachments.

 

[boggen]

90 miles to get tractor home from dealer, and 6 miles to drive between home and other property.

i say, rent a trailer, or pay someone anywhere between 75 bucks to 150 bucks to haul tractor to your house. and then just drive 6 miles back and forth between your home and other property. and all you would need is slow motion triangle on rear. and make sure all your lights work. trying to load/unload and getting trailer hooked up / unhooked. and positioned, and dealing with ramps. spend a couple more minutes driving and you would be there at other property with much less hassles.

errr take that back you may have to get it license plated. rules vary way to much from state to state. and you may or may not fall into "farm" classification.

if you need to take stuff to other property, just get a cheap small utility trailer. and a ball for draw bar on rear of tractor. and just pull trailer behind tractor.

=================
ya if you need a trailer, it would make sense to make sure it can handle the tractor being on it. but... you also need to make sure your "truck" can also handle the weight. everything begins adding up. just saying *shrugs*

 

[xzcVAbc5]

Here's my JD 3520 w/FEL and RC 1060 on my 18' 10,000 lb trailer.

Nice rig! :thumbsup: