Trailer wiring,anyone know

[century3045]

you can tap anywhere, you can even pull a wire from the brake light itself, doesn't really matter as long as it activates by depressing the pedal. Dont pay a bunch for a brake unit, the 50 dollar ones work as wel as the 200.00 ones. I have wired up hundreds of trailers and vehicles for brakes. This used to be my side-line. That is correct, if the vehicle had a towing package, thje wires are all there, just splice into them

 

[century3045]

you can tap anywhere, you can even pull a wire from the brake light itself, doesn't really matter as long as it activates by depressing the pedal. Dont pay a bunch for a brake unit, the 50 dollar ones work as wel as the 200.00 ones. I have wired up hundreds of trailers and vehicles for brakes. This used to be my side-line. That is correct, if the vehicle had a towing package, thje wires are all there, just splice into them

 

[jwstewar]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( On a 95 you will need to wire it the old fashioned way, no fancy premade plugs under the dash. )</font>

I agree with this. I had to tap the brake switch wire and run wires from the battery to the controller and then on to the rear bumper when I hooked up mine on my '97 K1500. Yes, it had the heavy duty tow package - but GM didn't do any of the wiring. Heavy duty tow package consisted of hitch, high capacity air cleaner, transmission cooler, and locking rear differential (G80 RPO /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif) Much nicer on my '99 (the first year for GM to do that) plug a pig tail in under the dash, insert a few under the hood and you were done. All plugs were already to the rear and in the case of my truck already to the front of the bed for fifth wheel or gooseneck.

 

[jwstewar]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( On a 95 you will need to wire it the old fashioned way, no fancy premade plugs under the dash. )</font>

I agree with this. I had to tap the brake switch wire and run wires from the battery to the controller and then on to the rear bumper when I hooked up mine on my '97 K1500. Yes, it had the heavy duty tow package - but GM didn't do any of the wiring. Heavy duty tow package consisted of hitch, high capacity air cleaner, transmission cooler, and locking rear differential (G80 RPO /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif) Much nicer on my '99 (the first year for GM to do that) plug a pig tail in under the dash, insert a few under the hood and you were done. All plugs were already to the rear and in the case of my truck already to the front of the bed for fifth wheel or gooseneck.

 

[redharley]

Thanks guy's I knew I'd get a lot of info from all the wiring pro's out there.But here's the story, plugs all wired,brake controler installed all I need to do is attach the wire to the brake light switch wire.My question is this,is their a place other than the switch "which is a real PITA to get at"to get brake light power.You can not use the wiring which runs back to lights as this wire also contains turn signal power,as one of the earlier poster's said my tahoe does not have a towing package.I can use the brake light switch I just thought there would be a easier place and save some time.

 

[redharley]

Thanks guy's I knew I'd get a lot of info from all the wiring pro's out there.But here's the story, plugs all wired,brake controler installed all I need to do is attach the wire to the brake light switch wire.My question is this,is their a place other than the switch "which is a real PITA to get at"to get brake light power.You can not use the wiring which runs back to lights as this wire also contains turn signal power,as one of the earlier poster's said my tahoe does not have a towing package.I can use the brake light switch I just thought there would be a easier place and save some time.

 

[Soundguy]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( The controller takes the fixed voltage from the brake light circuit and varies the voltage applied to the trailer brakes with an inertia type switch." Not anymore. The brake light connection only tells the controller to start applying voltage from the battery connection. You will actually need to install an automatic reset circuit breaker for the main power feed.
)</font>

Highbeam.. i think that is what he meant.. that the brake control provides th power for the brakes.. it does not take it from the brake switch line.. it merely uses that as a reference.

Oh.. at least on 2000 GMC's with a tow package.. there is no resetable CD.. it is a large 30A or 50A fuse that goes in a holder under the hood. ( my 98 dodge w/ tow package has the cb )

Soundguy

 

[Soundguy]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( The controller takes the fixed voltage from the brake light circuit and varies the voltage applied to the trailer brakes with an inertia type switch." Not anymore. The brake light connection only tells the controller to start applying voltage from the battery connection. You will actually need to install an automatic reset circuit breaker for the main power feed.
)</font>

Highbeam.. i think that is what he meant.. that the brake control provides th power for the brakes.. it does not take it from the brake switch line.. it merely uses that as a reference.

Oh.. at least on 2000 GMC's with a tow package.. there is no resetable CD.. it is a large 30A or 50A fuse that goes in a holder under the hood. ( my 98 dodge w/ tow package has the cb )

Soundguy

 

[Highbeam]

The problem with using that fused line is that the fuse pops when you need it most, when you are trying to suck lots of juice for the brakes. The auto CB resets itself so that your brakes will come back and let you stop. My brake controller diagram was pretty specific in that you weren't supposed to use a fused power feed.

I cheated a bit since the 30 amp fused connection you speak of feeds my required 20 amp (might be 15) auto reset CB. Maybe thats what you meant, to use the 30 amp fused power line to power the 20 amp CB for the controller. The small auto CB should pop before the large 30 amp maxi fuse.

To the poster, I could tell you which wire they used on mine but not sure if it is the same as a 95. Maybe even take a picture. The brake switch must have been in a tight spot so they spliced into a wire right under the column. Maybe you can follow the wires to a more convenient place.

Good call on not using a brake light wire since the blinkers also could trigger your controller. There is one wire though, on mine it is white, that feeds the third brake light. I use it to power the thrid brake light in my canopy. It is a white wire back there that does not activate with the hazards, only brakes.

 

[Highbeam]

The problem with using that fused line is that the fuse pops when you need it most, when you are trying to suck lots of juice for the brakes. The auto CB resets itself so that your brakes will come back and let you stop. My brake controller diagram was pretty specific in that you weren't supposed to use a fused power feed.

I cheated a bit since the 30 amp fused connection you speak of feeds my required 20 amp (might be 15) auto reset CB. Maybe thats what you meant, to use the 30 amp fused power line to power the 20 amp CB for the controller. The small auto CB should pop before the large 30 amp maxi fuse.

To the poster, I could tell you which wire they used on mine but not sure if it is the same as a 95. Maybe even take a picture. The brake switch must have been in a tight spot so they spliced into a wire right under the column. Maybe you can follow the wires to a more convenient place.

Good call on not using a brake light wire since the blinkers also could trigger your controller. There is one wire though, on mine it is white, that feeds the third brake light. I use it to power the thrid brake light in my canopy. It is a white wire back there that does not activate with the hazards, only brakes.