Trailering 4410/430/48

[Dave4410]

Hey guys, can you give me your recommendations on a trailer for my new tractor? I have a K1500 Suburban (1/2 ton) and would like to be able to move my tractor around town but don't need to go on the highway. My tow vehicle probably dictates that I find a trailer that will carry most of the load on it's axles with a minimum of tongue weight. Can you tell me how long the trailer needs to be with the loader and hoe? Will the tractor fit in a 16' bumper-pull stock trailer? With the rear doors open? Thanks in advance.

 

[ronjhall]

Dave
My tractor is a little smaller than yours. So I can't comment on what size you will need.
Here is a link to some info on trailers for a tractor your size.

Click Here

Fitting your tractor with loader and backhoe into a 16' trailer may be possible. Balancing the load so you can tow it properly with K1500 Suburban may be the problem.

The Backhoe may not clear the top if it is a covered trailer.

 

[Dave4410]

Thanks Ron. From what I've read it seems like the trailer needs to be long enough to allow for the tractor to be situated in a place where most of the weight will be on the trailer axles. Would you agree? Let's see what the rest of the guys have to say.

 

[CVHoss]

Dave,
I have virtually the same tractor setup as you. 4400/430/48. I have a 18 foot car hauler that is actually a 16' bed with a 2' dovetail. My tow vehicle is a little different (F350 SD Dually), but the discussion is about the trailer. My trailer has no side rails but does have a rail across the front. I usually pull the tractor onto the trailer until the edge of the front bucket just touches the front rail on the trailer. I then lower the BH and the bucket rests in the middle of the 2' dovetail. In other words, if you're going to lower the BH for transport, you need at least 18' of trailer. In this position, my tongue weight is fairly heavy, but not so heavy that I can't use the trailer jack and unhook the trailer with the tractor still on it. (my arm is pretty tired when I get this done, but I have done it) Depending on the exact design, I believe you would have trouble transporting in a 16' horse trailer. You would have to have the transport lock pin in the BH and don't believe you could clear the top of a covered trailer. If I can provide any further info about my trailer setup, just drop me an email.

Hoss

 

[Gary_in_Indiana]

Dave,

I have a slightly smaller setup (4200/420/47), a much, much larger trailer (22' steel bed) and less tow vehicle (Chevy Tahoe 4x4) and towing hasn't been a problem.

I'd think an 18' trailer would be the way to go for you. If you're going to have to buy a new trailer, you owe it to yourself to consider a tilt bed model. It's more money but well worth it in my opinion. I have an electric hydraulic tilt bed and it's the best money I've spent in a long time. Loading and offloading is so much easier and quicker without messing with ramps and such. I added a Warn 8000# winch and feel I have a great setup now.

I can back up to whatever I'm going to haul and be back in my truck pulling away with the load secured on my trailer in about ten minutes now. Most days that's not a big deal but when the weather is really ugly you really appreciate it.

Good luck with whatever you decide. I hope this helps. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[dltimmons]

Dave,

A couple of things to consider with any trailer you buy. Your TLB will fit on a 16' trailer, you wont get much adjustment room to move it forward or back to adjust your tongue weight with this length. My 4310 w/ 420 loader and 47 hoe, fits real nice on my 16' flatbed trailer, but, I use a F-350 dually to haul it, so a little heavy on the tongue doesn't bother me.
If you ever want to haul a brush hog or other longer attachement, don't get the hinged type ramps. They're a real pain anyway, ramps that store under the rear of the trailer, allow you to haul longer loads that hang over the back end.
If you want to take other attachments along, there isn't room on a 16' trailer.
You will also want minimum 2 - #3500 axles, with the weight of the trailer and tractor anything less will be overloaded. Get a good brake controller also, with a light tow vehicle, an emergency stop can be scary.
I would recommend that you look for at least an 18' and if you can afford it, a 20 - 22' would be even better. With that length, you can move the tractor around to get the best position for towing with your truck, and have room for a variety of other attachements.
I also have a 14' low profile dump trailer, the tractor/loader/backhoe does just fit on this trailer, but the backhoe hangs out over the back tailgate several feet. Unless I remove the bucket from the loader arms and set it on the floor of the trailer so I can pull the tractor forward a little more, the tongue is too light and the trailer wants to start swaying at high speeds. That will really get your attention, even with a 1 ton dually pulling it.
With your light towing vehicle, you might want to look into a weight distributing hitch set up, would be a lot safer since you'll be towing a trailer/tractor that will weigh about as much, or a little more than the vehicle you pull them with.
What ever you do, take it real slow the first few miles and if it doesn't feel right, stop and change things around until it does. A little more time spent getting it right, could save you, (and anyone you run over), a lot of time and money later.

Good luck,

DT

 

[Dave4410]

Thanks DT. That sounds like good advice. I particularly like your suggestion about the longer deck to accommodate better weight distribution on to the trailer and off of the tongue.