em14
Platinum Member
Thanks for the explanation and link also ...
Leo
Leo
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Trailering Newbie Questions
- Thread starter Ben3130
- Start date
- Views: 6458
Thanks to everyone for the advice. It looks like I'll be shopping for a 20' 10,000# trailer this week. Sounds like the consensus is 20' will be the right fit for tractor and bush hog, but not over-tax my truck. Thanks again to everyone, you've given me a lot a valuable advice for not only purchasing the right trailer, but also hauling my precious cargo. I'll try to post pics when I finally make the purchase.
dqdave1
Veteran Member
I thought the 20' would be too long; but glad I got the 20'; last 2 feet are the dovetail; which I would not do without. I also wanted my ramps slid in from the rear, under the frame and flooring. Much easier to pull out and use. 4 wheel brakes also; don't opt for 2 wheels only. Led lighting is great; no amp draw and grounding issues won't pop up as often. I also have a 2006 Chevy 1/2 ton z-71 with 3:42 gears and a 5.3 HO engine. Pulls fine; electric brakes a must. I had the same truck with 3:73 gears and it was even better at pulling.
dqdave1, brakes on both axles is a must. I won't even look at a trailer with only one set of brakes. I, too, was/am worried about hauling 20' of trailer, but from what I'm hearing I'll get over it pretty quickly. I've got the holiday off tomorrow, so I'll try to do some internet searching for some good 20' trailers.
dqdave1
Veteran Member
txslowpoke
Bronze Member
- Joined
- Jan 3, 2007
- Messages
- 54
Here is abit of advice from my experience as a hotshot driver of 8 yrs and big rig driver of 8 yrs. I started in the big trucks the 1st 8 yrs as company driver and owner operator Hotshotting in the oilfield the last 8 yrs. These are my opinions and just that.
Bumper pull trailers with brakes
1/2 ton- 5k
3/4 ton- 10k
1 ton dually -15 k
As long as the hitches concour.
You can always add overload springs etc to help. You need to weigh the tow vehicle and the trailer, get axle weights empty then loaded. You MUST consider tire capacity when you get your loaded axle weight. Since most newer 1/2 tons run 16" tires you can upgrade to 10 ply load range E tires.
You can also go to gooseneck trailer for about 2k more than a bumper pull...... night and day difference in towing. If you can swing the bucks go gooseneck.
JMO. good luck
Bumper pull trailers with brakes
1/2 ton- 5k
3/4 ton- 10k
1 ton dually -15 k
As long as the hitches concour.
You can always add overload springs etc to help. You need to weigh the tow vehicle and the trailer, get axle weights empty then loaded. You MUST consider tire capacity when you get your loaded axle weight. Since most newer 1/2 tons run 16" tires you can upgrade to 10 ply load range E tires.
You can also go to gooseneck trailer for about 2k more than a bumper pull...... night and day difference in towing. If you can swing the bucks go gooseneck.
JMO. good luck
I put a hold on a trailer (18’ Pro Star Car Hauler 7000#) today, found this post tonight and I thought I would confirm, based on what I read that I didn’t miss anything and I am doing the right thing.
I have 2006 Dodge Quad Cab 4x4 with factory installed tow package. Based on the engine, transmission and rear end ratio the spec lists 6850 lb as the towing capacity and I have installed a Prodigy brake controller.
My tractor, a BX23, weights in at 3000# and that is with the FEL & Toothbar, BH, and MMM mounted. So even if I take along my Bearcat Chipper/Shredder(450#) and extra fuel with a trailer weight of approximately 2000# I am 1500# under.
In regard to length my BX comes in at 14.5”, BH to tip of Toothbar, and although the 18’ length does include 2’ of Dovetail, based on how I load/balance out, may still be usable as the BH or FEL could rest there.
Is there any reason to do something different?
I have 2006 Dodge Quad Cab 4x4 with factory installed tow package. Based on the engine, transmission and rear end ratio the spec lists 6850 lb as the towing capacity and I have installed a Prodigy brake controller.
My tractor, a BX23, weights in at 3000# and that is with the FEL & Toothbar, BH, and MMM mounted. So even if I take along my Bearcat Chipper/Shredder(450#) and extra fuel with a trailer weight of approximately 2000# I am 1500# under.
In regard to length my BX comes in at 14.5”, BH to tip of Toothbar, and although the 18’ length does include 2’ of Dovetail, based on how I load/balance out, may still be usable as the BH or FEL could rest there.
Is there any reason to do something different?
LoneCowboy
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Oct 2, 2006
- Messages
- 1,212
sounds perfect and well thought out to me
Enjoy
Enjoy
Thanks LoneCowboy!
By the way, and just for the record, I have also been told by one trailer dealer that the trailer capacity, not what it weighs plus what it is carrying, must match the towing capacity of the tow vehicle. I asked around and found that here in Connecticut, since a fiery truck crash, DOT has been pushing the letter of the law on overweight vehicles. However, nobody seems to be clear as to it's interpertation and I have also been told that they are more likely to pull over a commercial vehicle with a large piece of equipment.
With that in mind, the actual ID Tag on the Pro Star reads 6990# and with the Dakota at 6850 I am technically 140# shy of being to the letter of the law, if in fact that is the correct interpretation.
Anyway, I am having it registered as a Camp Trailer, as apposed to a Commercial tag, and I plan to do a bit more research to determine if it is worth it to play safe (versus any fines) and pick up a weight distribution setup that would move the Dakota up to 8000# towing capability. Based on the way the package handles it might be a good idea to install one anyway. I will keep everyone posted.
By the way, and just for the record, I have also been told by one trailer dealer that the trailer capacity, not what it weighs plus what it is carrying, must match the towing capacity of the tow vehicle. I asked around and found that here in Connecticut, since a fiery truck crash, DOT has been pushing the letter of the law on overweight vehicles. However, nobody seems to be clear as to it's interpertation and I have also been told that they are more likely to pull over a commercial vehicle with a large piece of equipment.
With that in mind, the actual ID Tag on the Pro Star reads 6990# and with the Dakota at 6850 I am technically 140# shy of being to the letter of the law, if in fact that is the correct interpretation.
Anyway, I am having it registered as a Camp Trailer, as apposed to a Commercial tag, and I plan to do a bit more research to determine if it is worth it to play safe (versus any fines) and pick up a weight distribution setup that would move the Dakota up to 8000# towing capability. Based on the way the package handles it might be a good idea to install one anyway. I will keep everyone posted.
txslowpoke
Bronze Member
- Joined
- Jan 3, 2007
- Messages
- 54
Sounds like a good setup. Once you get the trailer loaded up you can always go to a truck scale and axle out, then compare to trucks manufacturer ratings for the rearend and frontend weight ratings and adjust it as needed, then mark the trailer floor for future use. That way you know exactly where to put the tractor.
I said this in another post and may sound redundant. Make sure you have enough tongue weight to make the trailer follow the tow vehicle.
If you get the tongue weight right I dont think you will need any antisway bars etc.
I said this in another post and may sound redundant. Make sure you have enough tongue weight to make the trailer follow the tow vehicle.
If you get the tongue weight right I dont think you will need any antisway bars etc.