transfer case parking brake

[cmyoung2]

Not sure if this is the correct place, but. 1999 F250 4x4 V10 5speed. Would like to put a parking brake on the driveline just behind the transfer case. Rotor bolted between the output flange and the driveshaft. I see two options for the caliper, either a bracket off the transfer case or mounted on a frame crossmember. Crossmember will be easy, but I'm not sure how much flex there is between the frame and the end of the transfer case. Bracket off the transfer case will be a challenge. Any ideas??
I'm looking for a parking brake that will actually work, the original inside the rotor brake has never worked, will not spend any more $ on trying to get them to hold. For now the parking brake is low range 1st gear, engine off. 1st gear 2 wheel dr on a hill will not hold, and all we have is hills.
Thanks

 

[Rustyiron]

Check into these, Brake Locks | MICO, Inc.
It's what tow trucks use, plumbs into your regular brake system and holds pressure. I think it would be a little easier than all that driveshaft & fab work and prolly work better.

 

[countrybumpkin]

Check out pirate4x4 , should be able to find what you need. Several places have kits available for adding driveline brakes.

 

[cmyoung2]

I really need a mechanical brake for parking, have a line lock that failed. Already have the rotor and caliper, just need to figure out how to mount the caliper.

 

[TMGT]

Can you make a bracket that mounts off the bolts for the tailshaft housing on the transfer case? Use some standoffs and a rotor that recesses over the tail housing some so you don't have to push the bracket out as far.

 

[crashz]

The tail shaft of the t-case will be the tough part. Most are a slip yoke design on an alloy (some are magnesium) housing. Could you put it on the rear axle? Some Ford models have a U-Joint yoke that bolts to a flange connected to the pinion gear. Maybe you could have a machine shop drill the rotor and sandwich it between the pinion flange and yoke? Then you'd need to make a caliper bracket for the axle.

 

[cmyoung2]

The tailshaft for the transfer case is the flange joint, I can/have bolted the rotor there. I thought of the diff, but way to much issue with ground clearance and movement. I'm just not sure how much movement there is between the frame and the tailshaft. If none, I can bolt a crossmember from frame to frame and be good. If there is movement there, I'll need to bolt to the case.

 

[TMGT]

There will be too much movement between the transfer case and frame/crossmember.

Are you using a mechanical spot caliper?

 

[Tractorable]

I’m sure this isn’t helpful, but my old Toyota Land Cruiser has a cable operated drive shaft mounted drum brake and its the worst design ever. I’ve rebuilt it and replaced the tail shaft seals but oil still gets into it and it can’t hold the truck from moving. I just don’t park on hills.

 

[cmyoung2]

I’m sure this isn’t helpful, but my old Toyota Land Cruiser has a cable operated drive shaft mounted drum brake and its the worst design ever. I’ve rebuilt it and replaced the tail shaft seals but oil still gets into it and it can’t hold the truck from moving. I just don’t park on hills.

DOn't think oil will be an issue, the two are not connected. And I agree, no more drums, that is what is in the rear rotors now that have never worked. Have no choice on the hills, just would like to be able to get out with the truck stopped and running to hitch trailers and open gates.