Transporting old Grain Drill question

[bnew17]

I will be purchasing an old Massey Harris grain drill. The man I am purchasing from has a tractor with forks that can load for me. What do you think is the best way to load this? Maybe tying on just inside each wheel on the axle? I am afraid it might pinch the grain box on top though. Thoughts?

Will be transporting with a 6x12 utility trailer about 5 hours.

Thanks

 

[lpakiz]

I would go to the hardware store and buy 2 lengths of 1/4" chain, maybe 5 feet long each, and 2 grab hooks and 2 slip hooks-clevis attached type. (You will later find that 2 short, light chains with hooks are handier than pockets on pants around the yard, too)
Then source a pipe (2" or 2 1/2" or 3", no smaller) or a post (4X4) long enough to reach across the drill. (10-12 feet).
Set it on the seed boxes, maybe temporarily on 4" blocks and chain it loosely to the tops of the wheels. Leave 4" inches of space above the seed boxes. Then the forklift can slip the tines under the post or pipe and lift straight up. The wheel rims will be strong enough to hang its own weight.
If you use steel pipe, be sure to keep the forks level, so the beam doesn't slide off the slippery steel forks. Or you could chain the pipe back to the backrest of the forks, then tilt the forks foreward a little (against the hold back chains) so it can't slide off the forks. Watch also that it doesn't slide toward the tractor, so you don't wreck something on your new drill.
Best keep them level. A wood post will be more stable. 2 or 3 2X4s, screwed or nailed together lightly, would probably work.

If you go to the axle with this setup, I think the drill might be top-heavy and want to pitch forward or backwards until it's upside down. Even so, hang onto the tongue when first lifting to see how it balances. Maybe a 2X4 stuck (and bolted) into the tongue could give you a safe handle to control this tendency. Bring a cordless drill, a 1/2" bit and a 1/2 by 4" bolt to secure the 2X4 into the tongue. Keep the 2X4 tongue perpendicular to the seed boxes for best control.

 

[Smokeydog]

I would go to the hardware store and buy 2 lengths of 1/4" chain, maybe 5 feet long each, and 2 grab hooks and 2 slip hooks-clevis attached type. (You will later find that 2 short, light chains with hooks are handier than pockets on pants around the yard, too)
Then source a pipe (2" or 2 1/2" or 3", no smaller) or a post (4X4) long enough to reach across the drill. (10-12 feet).
Set it on the seed boxes, maybe temporarily on 4" blocks and chain it loosely to the tops of the wheels. Leave 4" inches of space above the seed boxes. Then the forklift can slip the tines under the post or pipe and lift straight up. The wheel rims will be strong enough to hang its own weight.
If you use steel pipe, be sure to keep the forks level, so the beam doesn't slide off the slippery steel forks. Or you could chain the pipe back to the backrest of the forks, then tilt the forks foreward a little (against the hold back chains) so it can't slide off the forks. Watch also that it doesn't slide toward the tractor, so you don't wreck something on your new drill.
Best keep them level. A wood post will be more stable. 2 or 3 2X4s, screwed or nailed together lightly, would probably work.

If you go to the axle with this setup, I think the drill might be top-heavy and want to pitch forward or backwards until it's upside down. Even so, hang onto the tongue when first lifting to see how it balances. Maybe a 2X4 stuck (and bolted) into the tongue could give you a safe handle to control this tendency. Bring a cordless drill, a 1/2" bit and a 1/2 by 4" bolt to secure the 2X4 into the tongue. Keep the 2X4 tongue perpendicular to the seed boxes for best control.

Agree a strongback lifting rigging at the wheels is the best if you can’t get four big men to move. See these at the scrapyard often showing damage by how they were lifted for their final journey. Wheels are the most value. Elaborate, changeable gear sets at wheels to change seeding. Wonderfully built machines.