Travel trailer to euipment trailer, thoughts anyone?

[Big Wave D]

I have an old 24' travel trailer with electric brakes on both axles. It is in sound condition. It doesn't get used for traveling any more, so my question is this:

Would it make a good foundation for an equipment trailer or is the frame for a travel trailer completely useless for trying to make a conversion to flatbed equipment hauler?

5 stud hubs, what is the likely rated carrying capacity for them?

Last, my tractor with the hoe on is just over 7K pounds, so, I am hoping to end up with a trailer that can safely carry a GVW of 10K pounds, is this a pipe dream with what I am considering my starting point?


If anyone has done this successfully, I'd love to hear what it took and how you went about it. Any links on this forum or to other sites would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you to all who have read this posting and a special thanks to anyone who replies.

 

[aczlan]

5 lug hubs mean a 3.5k axle, so you can carry 7k on the axles. Hard to get 10k on such a trailer unless it is a goosneck and you can put 4-5k on the tow vehicle.

Aaron Z

 

[Big Wave D]

aczlan, thanks for the info on axle ratings. As for converting it to a goose-neck. Right now, that is beyond my present fabrication skills, in that I don't want to endanger others on the road by one of my welds failing and unleashing a 7K pound projectile on anyone.

I am wondering about cutting down on the overall length. I don't really know how much weight I'd be saving by shortening up the whole thing by 4'. It might be nice to have the extra 'real estate'. Is there such a thing as to long of a trailer? We aren't talking about anything crazy here. Seems like most commercial made trailers top out around 20'. Is there any hard and fast reason for that?

 

[davedj1]

Hi, I have worked with camper trailer frames for various projects and for what you propose it will be way too light. 7k axles less the weight of trailer once converted (maybe 2k) will leave you with a usable load capacity of 5k in a perfect world. The frames by design are quite flexible as well. Make sure you find the formula for the placement of the centerline of the axles in relationship to the tongue. Personally I would find a stronger frame to start off with.

 

[lostcause]

since you're planning on a total demolition and rebuild i'm guessing the trailer has zero value as a travel trailer anymore, aside from scrap value? no matter what you do you're likely to have some steel to add, lots to cut and remove, new decking to add, tie downs, ramps, and so on. my first thought would be to look at / take pictures the frame and see what will be needed in material costs for the conversion to a flatbed.

next i'd see what a decent used trailer goes for in your area. then see if there is any sale value left in your trailer. you might find that selling yours and buying another one might not bee too big of a cost. i've seen people buy old campers just for the 12v/propane appliances for making fishing and hunting camps.

always remember that welding gases, filler metal, bolts, nuts, lights, electricity to power tools, and consumables add up fast. add that to the cost of the steel required and the new decking, etc. even if you had to spend several hundred to a thousand dollars after selling yours, it might be as cheap as trying to convert.

don't get me wrong - i'd have no issue tackling a project like this if i thought the outcome would serve my needs, but i'd make sure that it wasn't going to end up costing as much as buying one in the first place.

 

[Big Wave D]

davedj1, lostcause

Thanks for the advice.

Yes, I need to make sure that I don't put more time, effort and money into this possible project than what it's worth.

I to am concerned about the frame being to light. I imagine that the way a camper works is that the upper structure is part of the over all rigidity of the unit. If true, it may take to much metal to make it work.

It's looking more and more like a 'no go' on this project.

Thanks again

 

[swick1]

you could weld a railing all the way around it 1-2' high like most utility trailers. That would take out the flex with minimal weight added to the trailer. This only limits you on side loading / unloading with pallets. I think just adding an angle iron railing around the top with some triangulation would make it plenty stiff for your needs. My neighbor hauls around his old ford industrial backhoe (from the 50's, looks about the size of an 8n) on a converted flatbed trailer. He just added some steel around the outside of the frame to stiffen it up and decked it with 2x12's. He hasn't had any issues in 2 years since he built it.

 

[davedj1]

Another thing I just thought of is that the width between the tires isn't going to be very much, campers have narrow frames and a narrow wheel track. You might get lucky and it will be usable but I would guess it will be around 6' or less.

 

[monckywrench]

Scrap is high lately. I'd scrap it then spend the money on whatever you like. Sometimes the best use of leftovers is the shredder, and that's not being negative.

Trailers can be filled with more metal so they'll be worth more when they go across the scales. :thumbsup:

I save LP tanks etc. of course, since they are (especially the aluminum ones) handy to have.

 

[Soundguy]

I am wondering about cutting down on the overall length. I don't really know how much weight I'd be saving by shortening up the whole thing by 4'. It might be nice to have the extra 'real estate'. Is there such a thing as to long of a trailer?

over 30 on a bumper pull would be too long imho.. and over 40 on a gn / 5th wheel..

I see lots of 20' bumper pulls and the rare occasional 30' that looks odd but works.

I now whish I have another 5' of goosencek deck.. could let me haul a third tractor instead of 2.

keep in mind much of a travel trailers strength is in the top and sides.. not so much the deck..

soundguy