treated 2x6 wood deck cleaning agents, then sealant recommendations

[tstex]

Hello to all,

Looking for advice and experience on how to best prep and then seal a wooden deck. Here is some info:

Install date: 2002
Type of wood: grade #1 treated 2 x 6's pine
Total surface area: approx 680sqft
Location: Under a covered roof w peripheral sun/rain exposure

I have sealed this before [8-10 yrs ago], but was looking to see if there are newer products and better methodologies The deck is 10ft out from house and covered by metal roof w about a 20" roof extension beyond deck. A lot of the wood closer to house is really in good shape while more peripheral sections are more weathered.

Questions:

What is the best process/steps for prepping the wood before sealant application?

What is the best product(s) to seal/protect the wood ? I would prefer a clear sealant than a tinted one that changes the color of the wood.

Thank you very much,
tstex

 

[tstex]

Forgot to include a pic. This is prob the most weathered since it receives rain & west sun.

 

[RustyA]

Our house deck is more in the shade and woods than it looks like yours is. When I restain our solid color I start with a good pressure washing. Then spray a mildew killing deck wash by hand, scrub with a brush and degreaser/water in bucket. Leave sit for an hour or two to kill mildew, then thoroughly pressure wash again. Leave dry overnight, check for popped screws/nails with snow shovel, and restain two coats. In our climate and being snow shoveled it lasts 4-5 years.

 

[tstex]

Thank you Rusty. What do you use as a deck sealant and cleaning agent? I like the idea of powerwashing, then add a cleaning agent. This prob allows it to work much more effectively vs trying to penetrate dirt, grime and other....

 

[5030]

I use boiled Linseed oil cut with mineral sprits in a hand (pump) sprayer after the PW treatment and allow it to dry prior to.

 

[alexpops]

Oxalic acid to clean/bleach. Will eat out weaker wood, so brush against the grain, or you can wind up with valleys in the grain. Also be careful with the PW for the same reasons. Thompsons waterseal clear. Linseed will darken over time -- especially with UV exposure.

 

[tstex]

I use boiled Linseed oil cut with mineral sprits in a hand (pump) sprayer after the PW treatment and allow it to dry prior to.

Thank you 5030.....what is the ratio of mineral spirits to boiled Linseed Oil? Also, I looked up BLO and the prices vary greatly. Is there a particular brand you use? I would assume any m-spirits should work.

 

[tstex]

Oxalic acid to clean/bleach. Will eat out weaker wood, so brush against the grain, or you can wind up with valleys in the grain. Also be careful with the PW for the same reasons. Thompsons waterseal clear. Linseed will darken over time -- especially with UV exposure.

Thanks alex...what is your process w the Oxalic acid? That's interesting on brushing against the grain bc I have always performed applications w the grain....

 

[Duds13]

This site provided a lot of great info for me when I was in the process of refinishing the deck at my last house.

8 Best Deck Stains in 2024: Expert Reviewed

The best deck stain depends on your needs and the deck. Explore our expert reviewed deck stains to find the best one for you.

www.deckstainhelp.com

Based on the info on the website I went with an Armstrong-Clark stain and it was fantastic. I see that their sealer is also highly rated.

 

[alexpops]

I've used the two part systems on boat decks. Basically it's wet things down, apply the oxalic acid & work it gently against the grain with a soft(ish) nylon brush keeping the area you're cleaning wetted out, or the acid can cause uneven bleaching. Let the chemical do the work & float out the dirt/grime rather than attacking with the brush or, like I said, you can wind up with major wood removal in the weaker grain sections. After you are done with one area, move on to the next. They have a neutralizer in each of the kits I've used, but soda ash or baking soda will probably work just as well after a flooded rinse or two and more rinsing after the neutralizer. If you worry about the strength of the Oxalic Acid, you can dilute, & I've even done some fairly easy cleanings with TSP with good results. Just be careful what the chems might come into contact with. Both oxalic acid & TSP can be corrosive to aluminum & I would test either on your fasteners before going to town on the whole deck.

With the grain definitely cleans faster, but will gouge the wood more over time. Maybe not as big a deal on pine house decks, but gets expensive real quick replacing teak decks on boats. The Thompson's waterseal I've used has mainly been on vertical applications (fence panels) & it is about the viscosity of water & soaks into the wood. I like a nonskid underfoot surface so I wouldn't put down anything on that doesn't soak into the wood. Since you are covered, slippery may not be as much of a concern.

You can look at any number of boat deck products, but my experience has been they are much more expensive and don't work any better than Thompson's, & they are all basically variants of snake oil. Find a good low viscosity, non-oxidizing, oil based product & you can probably count on two years of looking great/two years of MEH/ and refinishing every 4 years at the outside.