Treating pole posts?

[pajoube]

I think you would rather put the post on top of the cement pad. Not sure if that would be under frost line or at ground level for you. This would allow any water to run down and not get trapped against the pole.
PJ

 

[Egon]

You are right but I was using it as an example as there are some who have concreted in their posts.

Egon

 

[yooperdave]

Hi Dozernut-


No one enjoys a dry sense of humour more than myself.
I appologize if I sounded like I had a bug in my butt.
You are right about the wood picking up ambient moisture. It needs to maintain equalibrium with its surroundings. I had the impression that you were going to completely encapsulate the wood, and would thus require removing as much moisture from the post as possible and keeping it that way. If you coat the bottom 3' to 5' of the post only, will the coating shrink and swell with the wood without letting in any moisture or vapor? Your idea sounds unique - I just have not seen this application in practice. The coating needs to fit the post like a condom. The coating if applied while the wood has a high moisture content, will become loose if the wood shrinks, and might invite unwanted moisture. There may also be a concern that the wood can not breath, and may trap a high moisture content near the bottom of the post and might produce decay. Is there a web page which could enlighten all of us with this type of product and its proper application?

Yooper Dave

 

[beenthere]

Interesting idea you have.

If I remember correctly, wood decay organisms (bacteria) require food (wood), oxygen, and moisture. Get rid of any of the three and wood will not decay.

Treating wood takes away the food source, and getting rid of the moisture isn't likely either as is well stated in these messages. Getting rid of the oxygen is possible only if the wood can be submerged or completely saturated with water (not too likely either).

If the wood could be encapsulated below the groundline with a plastic 'boot' and it be filled with water to saturate the wood, then the wood wouldn't decay. But the transition zone between the saturated wood and the unsaturated wood would likely decay and the wood would lose its strength.

I think pilings in the water will not decay below the water line, but will decay at the water line.

But its still an interesting idea, at least for discussion.

 

[Dozernut]

Yooperdave and beenthere: Heres another harebrained idea, tear it apart. Your comment about a condom made me think of this. Take an old tube from a tire, cut it, then seal one end. Place the tube over the end of the post then fill the tube around the post with dry sand or saw dust. Seal the top of the tube to the post, then set the post with earth or concrete. The fill should, in theory, help keep moisture from the post while the rubber tube keeps out the ground water and insects. The tube will expand and contract with the seasonal and humidity changes. This probably won't work but it is fun trying to figure this out. Your turn! /w3tcompact/icons/grin.gif

 

[Carl_NH]

Dozernut,

With the right motivation I suppose one could create one or two of these, then have a beverage, and ponder the next move.

Great for what's below gnd. trouble is it's probably 70% exposed - core would rot, quick.

Reviewing these posts, agree CCA is the choice, tho motor oil is good, better & cheaper is bleaching oil sold by the 5 gal can - leaches into the wood and replaces the water if the oak is dry enough.

Carl

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[Dozernut]

I think we have a winner /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif. Thanks Carl, I knew the collective genius out there in TBN land would come up with a better (and easier) solution. Long live king /w3tcompact/icons/king.gif Carl's tractor.

 

[Carl_NH]

DozerNut,

Here's some more relevant info and more options;

Hardwood trees do not treat as well as conifers, though they generally have a greater degree of natural decay resistance.

The only equipment needed is an open tank large enough to submerge posts in preservative solution. Treat the full length of the posts for best results. Posts decay fastest at ground level, so treat a minimum of one foot above ground level if not treating full length.

Pentachlorophenol and creosote are two effective preservatives for treating posts. Both of these preservatives should be mixed with No. 2 fuel oil. Posts should be cold soaked for at least 48 hours or until they do not absorb additional solution.

Also, Behr Paint - # 3-91 Dock and Fence Post preservative, found at www.behrpaint.com.

Carl

 

[Soundguy]

If you are using your own non-treated wood.. the easiest thing would be to use the copper napthelate to coat the in-ground portion.... way cheaper than the plasti dip.

Soundguy

 

[Soundguy]

We've done alot of boar ramp reconstruction, and have pulled cresote pilings out of the water that have been there for decades with no sign of decay.... On a hot day, the pilons ( stacked in our shop yard ) will still 'bleed' a little cresote as well.... Nice stuff.

I doub't you can buy the liquid though/ anymore.

Soundguy

""I think pilings in the water will not decay below the water line, but will decay at the water line. ""