Tree Removal Question

[Anonymous Poster]

Hi,

I could use a little advice about how to remove some felled trees from my property.

They were felled about a week ago by someone who agreed to cut and remove only the softwood trees I had clearly marked, in exchange for the wood. However, after he began cutting trees (including hardwoods) which were not marked, and I asked him why he did so, he became angry and abandoned the job. That would not be so bad, except he left a couple of mid-sized trees hung up, not on the ground.

I believe the trees may have economic value, but my main concern is removing them safely. I don’t think I can do much with my little chainsaw, garden tractor, and cart.

The felled trees are in three areas. I measured the diameters about 4 ft. up from the base. The length is approximate. In addition to these large trees, there are several smaller ones also felled, but I can cut these up myself, for firewood I suppose.

The first group is within 30 ft. of a driveway, with easy access. There are (3) 16” dia. x 70 ft. long white pines, and (1) 14” x 60 ft. white pine, all nice and straight. There are also (2) 18” x 40-50 ft. hemlocks.

The second group is within 60 ft. of a driveway, with reasonable access. There are (3) 12-14” x 40-50 ft. hemlocks.

The third group is over 100 ft. from a driveway, in the woods. I will not allow a skidder to go in because it is too destructive. There are only two trees, but one is a really big white pine, 21” x 80+ ft., and (1) 16” hemlock.

Any ideas on what to do with these trees? Thanks.

 

[MossRoad]

I don't know much about felling trees, but do know that a hung up tree is extremely dangerous. A possible life ender. If you don't have any experience in this, don't do it and mark off the area so no one gets squished. You might have to hire a professional for this one. What's a few hundred bucks compared to the value of your life? Good luck and be careful.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

MossRoad, I too recognize the danger of the hung up ones, that's why I am concerned. Thankfully, they are in the woods, next to each other, and I won't go near them. There are no houses nearby, but your suggestion to mark off that area is a good idea. I want them safely down ASAP.

For the other ones, I thought maybe I could remove the branches myself, and in some cases, if safe to do so, cut them into logs. The only thing is, I'm not sure what is considered a good log length for lumber purposes.

 

[gerard]

Find a sawyer near you that does rough cut lumber. He'll be able to tell you what he wants for lengths. Usually the same lengths you get for nominal lumber - ie 10ft 12 etc. Usually let it run at least 3-4inches longer, that compensates for any bends in the trunk. Don't think white pine or hemlock gonna be worth a ton, around here it goes for about $.55 /board foot. (We used hemlock for our stalls, that's what the sawyer recommended)

 

[beenthere]

I am curious (as a simple answer to your question is somewhat difficult) about how you expected the tree cutter to remove the softwood trees that you marked? A skidder is about as soft on ground as anything can be, although they are big and require a lot of room. However, with so few trees, I doubt anyone will truck a big machine over to your woodlot to take the downed trees out or to remove the lodged trees..

Do you have a CUT or only a garden tractor? Would you drive your CUT (if you have one) to the downed trees?

Logs can be cut to about any length that you want lumber cut to. Often 8ft is the length cut unless there is a good reason to cut longer. The last logging I did was based on lengths down to 3', and up to 8'. These oak logs were cut on a WoodMiser saw into edge-grain (quarter-sawn) boards only. Very efficient for converting log volume into lumber volume. The idea was to get high recoveries, although some of that was offset by handling labor.

Are you interested in getting the lumber out of these logs? Or are you wanting to swap the logs for the removal cost?

It is true, that hung up trees demand a lot of respect, but it happens often and they don't need to deemed extremely dangerous. Always know they can fall, and if you are beneath them, it is not good. So, don't do anything that causes you to be under them. Sometimes a Come-Along can be used to get them to roll off the trees they are hung up in (the last big elm I cut hung up into a white oak, and by the next morning it was laying on the ground). Or the Come-Clong might get the butt of the tree to scoot back or to the side to dislodge it. The danger comes from trying to shorten the trunk of the lodged tree using the chainsaw. There is danger in it snapping sideways and ending up in your lap. Other danger is in trying to cut down the trees that are still standing and holding up the lodged tree. That usually means getting under the lodged
tree which is not good. If the Come-Along doesn't work, possibly getting your CUT in a position to pull on the trunk of the lodged tree(s). Again, care needs to be taken to avoid any problems.

More information about what you want and need will be helpful coming up with some answers to your questions.

 

[Egon]

Beenthere has really covered it all.

But perhaps a cable, truck, and some snatch blocks would enable you pull dow the hung up ones as 100 ft. isn't that far.
I think that in the past loggers used a central or convienient tree refered to as a "Spar Tree" to which they anchored their cables to pull logs to a central location.

Egon

 

[gmason]

I believe those "hangers" are called Widowmakers.

What is the species of Hemlocks that you have?? We have some property up about 3500' elev in Va with some huge Eastern Hemlocks that grow pretty fast and are about ~100' tall and massive calipers.
Do these Hemlocks have any commercial value? They seem to have some good rot resitant properties like a ceder tree, I've seen some stumps that look like they've been there for 10+ year and still are pretty solid.
The little pine cones are kinda qute too./w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

G

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Well, I probably went overkill on the hardware (nylon sling, choker chain, grab hooks, etc.) but I didn't want anything to snap when I used my comealong. I managed to get the hung up trees down to a safe position. It took several pulls in different directions to get around obstacles.

I also bought a new 50cc chainsaw, as my little 36cc Craftsman just wasn't up to the clearing task.

I called a few loggers/sawmills, and as beenthere anticipated, they weren't interested. So, looks like I'll have to cut it all up for firewood, a shame really, those pines would have made nice boards for someone. Any fellow TBNers need some free logs in southern NH ?

gmason, according to my ex-logger (if you can believe him), the hemlocks have some value as pulpwood, the pines (if they are big) are worth more as lumber. Your hemlocks are bigger, so they may be different.

Thanks to all for your help.

 

[JJT]

If I were you I'd save the butt logs for a year before I cut them up into firewood. You may find a sawyer who will cut them up for a reasonable price or on shares. The butt logs are premium wood - no knots and wide board. I get a lot more personal enjoyment out of working my wood vs working store bought boards.

 

[knucklehead]

Where's woodmills1? He's in Hudson. He hasn't posted in a month, but he may have some interest.