Tree Removal

GregJ · Mar 25, 2005

Good point Fred. I am no expert here, but my experience has been that the reference point is where it attaches to the tractor. In other words, the chain attaches to the FEL about 8' in the air. That connection point is what provides the leverage that could tip the tractor. If that stump would start to swing, it's momentum could create a "religious moment".... Obviously this is no where near as dangerous as having the stump in the bucket and raised that high. I just like to keep everything really low....Maybe I am just suffering from a bad case of pucker factor.... /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

Good discussion.... Thanks Fred
Greg

DanR67 · Mar 25, 2005

Greg & co -

Glad you mention the "religious experience" / "pucker factor" - I guess I wanted to show what "could be accomplished" - but that doesn't mean it necessarily "should be attempted"!

"Low & slow" is exactly what was going on - believe me I had my hand on the FEL control stick to "dump the load" the entire time I crept (in low range) to the "final resting place" of the stumps - @ 200' away from where the tree stood.

Although I also like to have the load "snugly attached" when carrying something in / on / attached to the FEL - if this puppy had decided to slip / let go - I didn't want to be "part of it"! /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif So that's why it had a fair amount of chain. This also helps when you set the load down - so the chain doesn't get pinned under the weight of the load - you can sort of "toss" it onto the ground - and it "half-rolled" / settled by itself in a way that they chain could be removed.

So my picture / comment was basically just to add to "what these little CUTs can do" - but I wholeheartedly agree: this is NOT a toy! Use your head at all times & make sure to keep the load as low as possible. This picture was taken last fall - so I had a whole summer of "getting used to" using the FEL - perhaps 60 - 70 hours on the clock at this point.

Almost wish there was a "tractor school" for new users - kinda like a "motorcycle driver training" - it's just a whole new way of thinking (& always thinking "ahead") compared, for example - with driving a car. You have to think "where's the front of the FEL when I take this turn" etc. etc.

Cheers,

Dan

BX23Seattle · Apr 7, 2005

Thanks for the pics Greg, this is exactly what I am considering next weekend. I was wondering how fast/hard the tree's fell with part of the rootball still intact? It appears in the photo the very top part of the tree remained a good 8 ft off the ground after it was down. The tree I need to take down might be tall enough to barely reach a fence, tough to know. If it does it will only catch it with the small part of the tree, hoping they don't fall to aggressivly to limit the amount of potential fence damage. Nice to see all the fellow WA tractor lovers. I live in Marysville but grew up playing on Double Bluff beach that you look at /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

SCB · Apr 7, 2005

Bx23 Seattle,

I have used the same technique as Greg in removing trees with my bx. The ones that I did came over only as fast as I pulled them over. What kind of trees are you taking down. The root structures will be the deciding factor in how fast they come down. Our cedars will roll over real slow because of all the surface roots. Firs tend to go slow until the tap root gives up and then they come over alot quicker. If you need a hand I would be happy to help sometime. I'm in Granite falls. Send me a PM if you like.

BoneheadNW · Apr 7, 2005

Thanks everyone for this great thread. Good pictures, sound advice.

Greg- Looks like we're neighbors. As a matter of fact, we are dispatched to your area when all of your fire units are out on other calls (and vice-versa). Something to keep in mind if the tractor rolls! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Bonehead

GregJ · Apr 8, 2005

BX23Seattle,
These trees did come down slower than a typical hinge cut. The biggest challenge I had was to determine how much to dig before I pulled them over. The wind had me a little nervous because it was blowing a steady 15MPH directly toward my house. As I was digging I was more nervous about weakening the roots to the point where the wind would take the tree down. So, I was fairly cautious and left all of the roots on the windward side intact. I also had the tree tied off to my car with pressure in the direction that I wanted the tree to fall.

It will be different for different species of trees. The pine had a fairly good sized tap root and took a bit to pull over. The spruce had all surface roots and once I broke through those, they came down very easily. In fact, after seeing how easy they came down, I am glad they are all gone because they could have fallen on our house with a strong NW wind.

My only caution would be to tie off the tree while you are digging, so you wont have any surprises. It really didn't take much digging to make it very easy to pull them over.

Hope this helps,
Greg

GregJ · Apr 8, 2005

Bonehead..... The last thing I want to see is you in your bunker gear in my front yard! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

No offense, but the Fire Department is kinda like a dentist or the body shop. The less you see of them, the better!

How are you doing on your tractor shopping?

Greg

BX23Seattle · Apr 8, 2005

I think the tree I will be removing is a pine or douglas fir, would you recomend digging around 3/4 the tree and leave the front alone which is the direction I want to pull the tree towards and have it fall? I guess it wouldn't hurt to try this and if it doesn't budge I could dig some more.

Thanks for your post and great info Greg and thanks for the kind offer Steve, I think it should go pretty smooth....hopefully you won't see me posting next week --tree takes out new bota /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

GregJ · Apr 8, 2005

BX23Seattle,
The front ditch is probably the most important. The root ball needs room to move, to start the leverage that pulls the tree over. My approach was to dig two parallel trenches (one on each side of the tree) perpendicular to the fall line. I dug these as close to the trunk as possible and about 3 feet down. On the pine I tried pulling it over and it didn't want to come down easily, so I dug on the leeward side of the tree to break up a few more roots. I am using 1" poly rope, so I don't put too much pressure on it. That poly line can make a great slingshot if you're not careful. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif If I was using steel cable I am sure that I could have pulled it over. After that, it came down easily.

Hope this helps,
Greg

penokee · Apr 8, 2005

Greg
Nice project, tractor and view. Want to add my small bit to the rope pulling part. I took down a large dying elm about 30 years ago. tieing up high and pulling with a 1 1/2" hemp rope and my 3/4 ton Dodge PU. I had made a wedge cut and partial back cut.
The rope snapped, tree came down just missing my house and neighbors. Parked the truck and went inside to change my underwear. That Good Guardian Angel has taken care of me many times. Almost ashamed to tell this story, but maybe someone can avoid mistake I made.
penokee /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif