You mean this one? Cutthat.com | Sabre Samurai I thought it was pretty neat - although, I would want to try and build one cheaper
I'm sure it's more $$$ then I care to spend.Tree Shear, fixed blade
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I'm sure it's more $$$ then I care to spend.
IslandTractor
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- 2007 Kioti DK40se HST, Woods BH
You mean this one? Cutthat.com | Sabre Samurai I thought it was pretty neat - although, I would want to try and build one cheaper
Yep, that's the one. It isn't cheap but is a lot less than some of the heavier duty trimmers sold primarily for skid steer mounting.
I have been using a tree saw built by Hicks fabrication of Berrington Ks. for about 5 years. Quite a few sold around these parts but not advertised much out of this area. It was probably the most economical option for me at the time of purchase. Mine was purchased for around $3000. There have been steady improvements in the Hicks saw and I think it is now in $5000 range. I love this saw and will probably upgrade to the improved model later, but can't seem to wear this one out. So far it has been bullet proof. Mine has a 28" 5/8" thick blade with 12 pengo rock auger teeth. Makes a 1.125" kerf. It will cut a 12" tree in one pass and a 24" tree by working both sides. No matter what size equipment you have there is a tendency to "overload" or do more than designed for. That is my way of saying I have cut larger than 24" trees. This saw has a pusher plate on the front so trees can be moved out of the way easily. I use an 1845C skid steer with Hi flo hydraulics. Supposed to be 30GPM @ 2500 PSI. That calculates to 36 HP on the saw (+/-) This is not an attempt to say a saw is better than a shear as both have their place. Wish I could afford to own both. Shears are probably faster in larger trunks but in the 8 to 10" range I can have 2 to 3 more trees down while a shear is cycling. I would love to try this saw on some of the higher horse power machines. This saw will cut at or below ground level, but the more dirt involved the harder it pulls. The Pengo teeth hold up well. Have broken 2 or 3 and lost about the same amount in about 750 hrs of cutting. No major trees on the ROPS. Small stuff sometimes end up between the cab and the gaurd mainly becuse I haven't pushed them out of the way.
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Teg.
Had pictures but lost them in the last flame-out on my computer. I will try to get some pictures and post. I should have mentioned that we cut a lot of Osage Orange here in KS. I doubt that it is the hardest wood in the world, but it is up there. Used mostly for posts and and stove firewood. I sets some corner posts around 1960 and went by the place the other day and the posts still had bark on them. Both my skid steer and saw look like they went through both world wars. Skid steer looks about like it did when I got it but I'm responsible for all the dings in the saw.
Had pictures but lost them in the last flame-out on my computer. I will try to get some pictures and post. I should have mentioned that we cut a lot of Osage Orange here in KS. I doubt that it is the hardest wood in the world, but it is up there. Used mostly for posts and and stove firewood. I sets some corner posts around 1960 and went by the place the other day and the posts still had bark on them. Both my skid steer and saw look like they went through both world wars. Skid steer looks about like it did when I got it but I'm responsible for all the dings in the saw.
