TREES MUST COME DOWN

Richard · Sep 5, 2003

Another thought and a twist on using the tractor... go rent an industrial type loader/backhoe.

I've dropped a bunch of trees using Brutus. Primarily pine trees up to around 24" diamater and a handful of oaks. Small diamater pine trees, I simply pushed over without bothering using chain saw.

Drive up to offending tree, plant stablilizers, raise backhoe bucket and gently place ONTO tree at hmmm... 10 foot high level with hoe near machine (not extended). Get off machine, go to tree, make first cuts and take out your notch. Start to make your final cut but you can make it a shallow cut (this is how I did it anyway). I usually leave a larger hinge and DON'T want the tree to necessarily fall yet... then, kill saw, get back into backhoe and "flex" the backhoe straight out and push tree over.

I've even helped direct the side to side direction of a fall by using some side action of the hoe. The tree I was pushing over, yet another dead pine, was going to fall directly onto another tree I hoped to save, so as I was forcing this tree down, I also applied some sideways force to it and was able to coax the tree to angle more to it's left and fell away from the tree I was hoping to save.

I know this is probably going to be viewed as a dangerous way to drop a tree, but my way of thinking is, by doing it this way, I have more horsepower available to me and I have some steel between myself and the tree.

When the offending tree is down, you can use the loader to help clean up the mess. If you have somewhere you can burn tree, you can drag the entire tree, or cut it into 3 or 4 sections, rather than cutting entire tree to bits and handeling a LOT more parts.

Since I'm on a farm, I just drag/push the entire tree (traction allowing) and am done with it.

Richard

kensfarm · Sep 5, 2003

Taking down large trees is not a task "most" people are familiar w/.. there are a lot of things that can go wrong.. and it is very dangerous unless you know what your doing. My 2 cents would be to call the "tree guys" that do it for a living.. that are insured.. though it might be pricey.. but not compared to the damage & danger to your home and yourself. (Maybe just have them fall them.. and then you can do the cutting up & clean up once they're on the ground.)

Richard · Sep 5, 2003

Though I DO agree with what you said, I was just offering a thought on a different way to do it. I have that luxury because we live on 250 acres, AND are surrounded by another thousand or so of TVA woods/lake... point being, if a tree falls in the forest, I'm not sure I hear it!! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

I DID drop a leaner (beetle rot pine) that was slightly leaning towards house this way. It was the most gut wrenching thing I think I've ever done. We had the 'professional' loggers on the farm taking down the pines (off the "farm" per se', not the residential land) and they would not touch this tree. I can't say I blame them, but I was rather intrigued as to how I'd get it down, and the above is method I used. (on hill, above house, middle of other trees... absolutely no way to get their skidder in there and muscle it, nor a line truck to section it)

I've NEVER NEVER been so relieved to finish a task as I was this one tree.

Richard

kensfarm · Sep 5, 2003

Sorry Richard.. I just hit reply on the last person that posted.. it wasn't intended to be directed at your post.

I been working on taking down trees for my farm neighbor for the 3 or 4 weekends.. I've actually used the FEL to push over more than a dozen on one field border.. now I'm in his back woods clearing up trees. I trade the labor for logs that are good enough to make into lumber.. he gets the firewood and his fields and pathways cleaned up. His real concern is the wild cherry trees.. he said if the cows eat the wilting leaves.. it can kill them.

Richard · Sep 5, 2003

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Sorry Richard.. I just hit reply on the last person that posted.. it wasn't intended to be directed at your post )</font>

Noooooo problemo! I STILL agree with the spirit of what you said /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

For me, (talking to you now) lol, I find the backhoe easier than the loader.

I tried to down SOME trees and the loader rode up the tree. As I drove forward on another, the trunk started to come up from under the front end /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

Seemed I had to really raise the loader bucket to get nice leverage, where as using the backhoe, I can get same if not MORE leverage but keep center of gravity closer to the ground (by not having the 1,500 lb bucket 10 feet high).

I found that by using the backhoe (realize this has a 15 1/2 foot digging depth, so I can stretch it wayyy out there for a machine on 4 rubber wheels), I can get further away from the rootball, I'm also able to use the articulation of the arm for sideways movement as per above, AND, if (meaning WHEN) the tree leans and sort of stalls, I can lower the backhoe bucket and push from a lower point down the trunk. I have less leverage pushing lower, but at all times, I'm keeping the tree say, 15 feet away from the back end of the machine, rather than having the loader on it and consequently, the machine right on top of the tree.

Besides... when all this is said & done, that backhoe is FUN!

I'm already looking forward to next springs petunia plantings so I can use the 2 foot bucket and 11,000 pounds of breakout force to help the wifey!! /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

(ok, I admit, that last part is partially a joke)

/forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

Richard · Sep 5, 2003

duhhhhh

I just realized I can't have the tree 15' away from back of machine and get good extension!

Silly me, but you get the idea.

I suppose tree is 6 feet away, but that's only a guess, been awhile since I've done a tree. (and don't mind if it's a LONG time before the next)

Richard

frank_f15 · Sep 5, 2003

i have the chain saws to do the work, i have the tractor to help, but alas i don't have the strength and ability to tackle that kind of task anymore, at least that is what the Doc says. i can do that work but not on an extended period of time. i think i must be prudent here and have it done! tho it do tick me off, we will see? sure would love to get into that big willow, hated that tree since my bride had her dad plant it 30 years ago /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif

ejb · Sep 5, 2003

I don't have any opinions on price, except to say, I am sure its much more than I would want to pay...I didn't notice and house or power-lines nearby, so if it was me, I'd use a chainsaw, a come-a-long, a few wedges and a sludgehammer and drop it myself.

If you use a come-a-long, and attach pretty far up the tree, you can cut a bit with the saw, and tighten the come-a-long a few more cranks, cut, tighten, cut, tighten...its almost like bringing the thing down in slow motion. Never had one drop the wrong way using this method.

Unlike the other recommendations, I wouldn't keep a tractor or any other vehicle within crashing distance of a tree that big. A come-a-long and chainsaw are a lot cheaper to replace. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Spanky100 · Sep 7, 2003

Frank

First. When tree removal is completed we expect the real answer on price and how the crew went about the task. I will give you my guess and then detail my first time at hiring out for tree removal.

My Guess. 600 US dollars. negotiate the price some by allowing crew to pick their time when equipment is in the area. Check with crews that do land clearing as the pictures do not show homes power line ect close. This price would include stump grinding and chipping all the limb, trunk ect. Nothing left but big tracks and wood chips.

My experience. Southern Michigan. 1 acre subdivision vacant lot. 10 (up to 45 inch diameter) large trees. 15 small trees ( 2 to 6 inch diameter). One of the large oak trees - 40 inches diameter is on property line with large overhanging branches over neighbors veicle storage shed. This one must come down branch by branch. I call large local tree removal company. One crew covers vacant lot clearing. The crew of 3 completes falling and chipping everything in 10 hours. The stump grinder comes later by himself and needs around 6 hours. The equipment is huge. The stump grinder brought up numerous 6 to 14 inch diameter rocks without damaging itself. When the crew leaves it looks like a tank unit went joyriding through the lot. Every piece of wood went into the chipper trunks and all. Stay out of the way of the equipment. I asked why they did not sell firewood on the side. Foreman said equipment is to expensive to slow down. They cut log sections just small enough for skidder(I think the name they used) to move to chipper. Price First quote was 3500 US Dollars. Foreman must have read my face that we were not thinking in the same range. I indicated the work could be scheduled around his convience when equipment was in area and that I was thinking of 2000 dollars. His response was 2200 dollars and we will finish start within 2 weeks or later if you want. Deal sealed.

I even got to use the saw this weekend. Minister called and said large tree (35 inch diameter) fell on picknick table shelter and brought roof to table level. Indicated all men would be there with their saws and could I help also. Actual crew - myself with one saw, minister with electric saw for branch work and older teenagers willing to pile wood. Well the Church's JD carb rebuild will have to wait a week. The firewood pile looks full.

Good luck with the quotes. BTW we were likely neighbors a few years ago as I lived south of Orchard Park NY. Get trees down by snow time. Enjoy the snow. Only have used the snow thrower once in last two years.

Wayne

woodmills1 · Sep 7, 2003

Just my 2 cents here. I am all for anyone doing as much of any kind of money saving labor that can be done. Also, I cut lots of trees to feed my sawmill and firewood operation. With that said I must say that that is a lot of willow tree in your back yard and the dead one is no picnic either. If I were to tackle the willow it would be one branch at a time and once the branches were down I don't even think my stihl 066 would have an easy time with the ugly looking butt. IMHO if you get a quote under $2000 to cut and remove all the debris you will be lucky. If you are going to do the job or have some friends help, PLEASE be careful!