Tricks for finding septic cover

   / Tricks for finding septic cover #21  
If probes don't work, witch for it....

best is a pair of brazing rods bent into an L, about 6" for hand and the rest out front. You can also put the bent hand portion in a short copper tube sleeve that acts like a bearing in your hands. Hold the rods parallel to the ground and pointing directly to your front - like holding 2 cowboy pistols. Walk the area in a grid pattern until the rods swing into each other. Mark the point where they crossed and keep moving around. If you're lucky you'll be able to outline the tank, mark the inlet line and the outlet. Same process can find the drain field legs.

A quick altenative is a pair of simple clothes hangers bent into the L....just be sure to hold very lightly, don't put them in a death grip. Easy way to check the witch is to try it over a known waterline....works on buried electric cable, too. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Dave
 
   / Tricks for finding septic cover #22  
And don't forget that once it is located, to record where it is either photographically, or better draw a small map with dimensions from house corners or other unmoveable objects. Don't trust your memory as it will look different under 2 feet of snow 5 years from now.
 
   / Tricks for finding septic cover #23  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( If probes don't work, witch for it.... )</font>
I used to think this was a crock, until a f(r)iend tried it and it worked. Then I did it, using coathanger wire.

My friend did a few experiments over known targets. Brass rod seems to work better tha iron. Hanging the rods from nylon threads makes the process ineffective, so there appears to be some interaction with the body.

<shrug> Beats heck outta me.

I suppose we should all be burned at the stake.
 
   / Tricks for finding septic cover #25  
Do all tanks have covers above the inlet and outlet? My tank was installed 20 years ago (rectangular concrete 1250 gallon), and they put a series of concrete risers from the center clean out to the top of the ground. It is about 15' below ground, so it will be a chore to dig up if I ever have to repair a baffle. I have it pumped every 4 years. There are two adults live in the house. Do you think that this interval is adequate? This is what was recommended by the State EPA. thanks.... Junk.
 
   / Tricks for finding septic cover #26  
<font color="blue"> "I have it pumped every 4 years. There are two adults live in the house. Do you think that this interval is adequate?" </font>

Junkman, check out the table in this link...
Estimate Septic Tank Pumping Frequencies in Years
 
   / Tricks for finding septic cover #27  
According to them I shouldn't need mine pumped more than once every 6 years. I do it once a year because the leachfield is bad, real bad. It helps unless we're in a rainy season /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif PEE YEW.......
 
   / Tricks for finding septic cover #28  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( It is about 15' below ground, so it will be a chore to dig up if I ever have to repair a baffle. )</font>

Speaking of baffles, I am trying to barter on a new poly septic tank to be installed later when I build on my land. I am bartering for a 1500 gal tank with double baffles. I have no idea what the baffles are for, I just figured if I was trying to work a deal, I wanted as much as I could get for my trade /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif Do I really need one with baffles? What is the purpose of the baffles? Why would you have to repair them??

Ken
 
   / Tricks for finding septic cover #29  
The baffles are essentially a T at the outlet to keep sludge from entering the leach lines. Mine has a "filter" in it to help keep a lot of sludge from getting into the baffle while the tank fills after pumping. When I bought the place, the outlet baffle was nothing more than a 90° elbow which allowed sludge and solids to enter the leach lines, ruining the leach field.
 

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