Tried Some 1/16" 6013 Rods - I Like Them

Gordon Gould · Jul 10, 2020

The arm rest on the control lever side of my dozer was wiggley - drove me nuts and I wanted to fix it while I was doing some other maintenance stuff. The rest is mounted on a hinged .065 (1/16") sheet metal bracket. You need to lift the rest to get at the transmission dip stick. I'm just a backyard stick welder and sheet metal has always been a challenge to say the least. Usually I end up brazing it with the torch and a bronze rod. Even then it is hard for me to keep it from distorting. I decided to try some 1/16" 6013's which I have seen mixed reviews on. I cut the bad part off of the bracket and welded on a new piece. Made a butt joint clamped up good with a piece of 1/4" plate under and two pieces of angle on top to weld between. Back skip welded both sides DCEP. First side at 30 Amps, second at 35 Amps. It is not a professional weld by any means but it is way better than any thing else I have been able to do in the past with .065 material. Especially the lack of distortion and burn thru. The rods are pretty flimsy and don't transmit any feel. They also amplify any shake you have if you are like me. But even so they work very well. You should try them if you are limited to a stick welder and want to do some sheet metal.

Here is my clamp up and how it can out. You can see the pitted piece I cut off in the second picture. Those holes are for 5/16" bolts that hold the rest on

gg

stevewarner1957 · Jul 10, 2020

Looks good to me. You do what you got to do with what you got. I’ve done that all my life. I’m sure some “experts” will be along soon to tell you different.

PILOON · Jul 10, 2020

I've also used those 1/16 6013's with decent success.

I tend to do what I call 'little spot welds' , like zap and let cool to next zap etc. works 4 me.

Problem is mainly to find those 1/16 rods as they are not in popular demand.

LouNY · Jul 10, 2020

Looks to me like you got it repaired and usable, looks good, what more can you ask for.
Somebody that wants to tell you how it should / could have been done,
needs to get there butt in gear and come to you and do it.

Rebeldad1 · Jul 10, 2020

used to use 6013 on rust/rot repair on boats. will stick to most anything where shallow penetration is needed

stevewarner1957 · Jul 10, 2020

Back in the days prior to wire welding the 6013 was the go to rod for sheet metal. I bought a cherry P&H AC welder that had spent its life working in a sheet metal shop. Just another tool in the toolbox.

Peter 315 · Jul 10, 2020

Looks good.. I think I got some Hobart 6013-1/16 at TSC ..........

spitter · Jul 11, 2020

Gordon is that cedar or redwood clapboard siding on your garage ? {I like it}:thumbsup: What kind of stain is on it . ? Hows about the soffit material .? I wan,t that look on my house and I'm trying to figure out what to buy . Thanx.:drink:

Gordon Gould · Jul 11, 2020

spitter said:
Gordon is that cedar or redwood clapboard siding on your garage ? {I like it}:thumbsup: What kind of stain is on it . ? Hows about the soffit material .? I wan,t that look on my house and I'm trying to figure out what to buy . Thanx.:drink:

Thanks for the comments on the 6013 rods all.

The clapboards are western Red Cedar. I put then on backwards so that the rough side was out to the weather and just use a natural/clear oil stain on them, which is getting harder to find where I am. The last time I used Super Deck Natural #1910. They are 20 years old and have darkened some what. The soffits are just eastern white pine tongue and groove boards I bought at local saw mill I use. Wife and father put a red wood/sequoia stain on them before they went up and I haven't touched them since.

gg