Troy built tiller with Tecumseh 6hp

[Schultz]

I've got an old tiller I bought few months back that has just been driving me nuts with the governor.

I had to replace the internal governor that runs off the cam since it was in pieces at the bottom of the crankcase when I got it. I got a new internal governor and put it all back together and it still doesn't maintain a constant speed and will over-speed if you let it. When I till I have to move the throttle up to maintain engine speed and move it down if I pull it out of the ground, essentially I'm the governor.
I even took it into a small engine repair shop after I couldn't get to work right. They gave it back to me a said it was fixed but they didn't till with it. It doesnt work any better than before.
Any advice on an old Tecumseh 6hp and how to get the governor to work?

 

[ChuckinNH]

I went through the same thing when I put a short block on an old troy built econo horse. Eventually, I tried it upside down from the way I thought it should be, and it has worked fine since. Look at it closely, and see if it will go on the other way. If you need pics I can take some of mine, but it's out under a tarp by the far garden right now.

 

[Schultz]

Yes I have the old Eco-horse too. I'll take a look at it and see if it can be switched around. Could you send or post some pictures, that would really help. The general engine manual pictures that I've seen have pictures of other types but not what I have.
Thanks,
Tim

 

[ChuckinNH]

Hope these photos help:

 

[Schultz]

Thanks Chuck,
That will help. I'll compare that to what I have when I get home.

 

[Flatheadyoungin]

I don't have an answer to your ?......


Two things to watch on the old horse model with the Tecumseh engines

1. the carb stick way out on them and if you bump a fence post or something it'll break right off...sometimes your lucky and it only breaks the cast aluminum in the carb.....other times it breaks the cast iron on the block......I always told the customer to buy a bumper for the Tecumseh powered tillers......best $$ they ever spent to keep problems from happening..

2. make sure you keep it full of oil.....maybe just a tad over full.....when you sink them in the ground, the engine is way off of level and the oil runs to one side.......and if your low on oil.....count on a new short block......we used to call them rod slingers....

Now, this does not mean I'm bad-mouthing your tiller....they are great tillers and last for years........but I worked at a Troy dealer for 7 years and I can't tell you how many times people fell over when I tole them the carb was $70 and worse if the block broke.........then I also recall we always kept short-blocks for that particular model......because of slinging rods.....most people never have a problem.....

 

[patyfc]

Hi I'm a newbie here and am having the same issue, I helped and older gentleman who was pushing his tiller to the curb! Well after replacing the carb and making a throttle rod mne fired right up, but the governor does not seem to work! I have the same linkage pictured above but can't regulate rpm, any suggestion? I'm at a loss and am close to pushing it back to the curb!

 

[TomSeller]

Note that the thread you responded to is from 2008, so hopefully the original posters still are on TBN and still have that thread in their subscriptions. I have a Troybilt with the 6 HP Tecumseh from the mid 80s and it has been rock solid. One of the posts above is exactly correct in that the oil HAS to be kept full while the ENGINE IS LEVEL, not while the tines are on the ground or buried in the soil.

As far as the governor goes, I have a 5 HP Tecumseh that is acting as you describe. I have not got to replacing the internal governor yet. Did you note the post above about it possibly being upside down if you replaced it?

 

[patyfc]

Well, I am aware that this is a possible issue, mine came without the carb and the linkage from that to the horse shoe shaped linkage on the motor was missing, I first observed that the motor came from a Ariens snow blower complete but missing the carb and the throttle rod. So I've compared it with some pictures and bent some hard wire to what I think is close. I've also tried to adjust the govener but have observed no difference is function/performance! I'm not exactly new to small engines and a horse power junkie, I figured this would be a no brainer but has tested my fortitude! The carburetor is nos and borrowed an air cleaner from an old mini bike I rode as a kid until I get another, it runs great just isn't governed.

 

[jeittreim]

Well, I am aware that this is a possible issue, mine came without the carb and the linkage from that to the horse shoe shaped linkage on the motor was missing, I first observed that the motor came from a Ariens snow blower complete but missing the carb and the throttle rod. So I've compared it with some pictures and bent some hard wire to what I think is close. I've also tried to adjust the govener but have observed no difference is function/performance! I'm not exactly new to small engines and a horse power junkie, I figured this would be a no brainer but has tested my fortitude! The carburetor is nos and borrowed an air cleaner from an old mini bike I rode as a kid until I get another, it runs great just isn't governed.

I have the Tecumseh 6hp HH60 engine, and had the same linkage problem. Turns out there needs to be a hard link between the carb throttle butterfly to the govener and a "soft" spring link to the throttle cable (for the governer to work, it has to be able to adjust and balance the throttle regardless of hard throttle position.) with a hard link all the way back to your throttle cable, the governer cannot control anything. in the attached picture, you can see the hard link that goes back to the governer at the top of the pic. right on top of that is the spring which attaches the throttle linkage to the butterfly valve on the carb. finding the right spring is the trick.

 

[SWhit]

I have the same Tecumseh HH60 is in jeittreim's picture. I bought the tiller on CL. It came with the "carb in a bag". I've figured out everything but the choke actuation. It looks like from the picture there is a spring in the choke plate which is pushed when the throttle is opened to full. Is this correct?

 

[TomSeller]

I have the same Tecumseh HH60 is in jeittreim's picture. I bought the tiller on CL. It came with the "carb in a bag". I've figured out everything but the choke actuation. It looks like from the picture there is a spring in the choke plate which is pushed when the throttle is opened to full. Is this correct?

I have a different model HH60 and my choke is separate completely from the throttle.

 

[cheeto]

Sorry to hijack the thread but... I am also experiencing the same problem. I thought I had a weak hh60. I have come to find out today while tinkering some that my governor is to blame for the weak tilling. I understand the basic idea of how a governor is suppose to work. It took me a little time and some research (mostly on this forum) to be able pinpoint the problem. I hope others can get the answers they are looking for to keep these old things running. Thanks to all the members that have helped me. I have one question. If my only goal is to get the most out of my current setup, should I "force" the governor open and just use the thumb throttle to get the desired engine rpm's I am trying to get? If I'm careful not to over rev the engine I should be fine. I don't want to put money into something that doesn't need it, If I can keep it limping along. Thanks again.

 

[TomSeller]

. If my only goal is to get the most out of my current setup, should I "force" the governor open and just use the thumb throttle to get the desired engine rpm's I am trying to get? If I'm careful not to over rev the engine I should be fine. I don't want to put money into something that doesn't need it, If I can keep it limping along. Thanks again.

I would not override the governor. You hear a lot about these old Tecumsehs throwing rods on high revs. They are great engines when kept within normal use. I would not over-rev them and I would keep the oil at the proper level (check with the ENGINE level) and they will last a long time.

 

[OL FART]

I don't have an answer to your ?......


Two things to watch on the old horse model with the Tecumseh engines

1. the carb stick way out on them and if you bump a fence post or something it'll break right off...sometimes your lucky and it only breaks the cast aluminum in the carb.....other times it breaks the cast iron on the block......I always told the customer to buy a bumper for the Tecumseh powered tillers......best $$ they ever spent to keep problems from happening..

2. make sure you keep it full of oil.....maybe just a tad over full.....when you sink them in the ground, the engine is way off of level and the oil runs to one side.......and if your low on oil.....count on a new short block......we used to call them rod slingers....

Now, this does not mean I'm bad-mouthing your tiller....they are great tillers and last for years........but I worked at a Troy dealer for 7 years and I can't tell you how many times people fell over when I tole them the carb was $70 and worse if the block broke.........then I also recall we always kept short-blocks for that particular model......because of slinging rods.....most people never have a problem.....

 

[Deere Dude]

Another one on the connectim.g rod list. Some of you mentioned oil level. I am thinking that was my problem. Maybe I'll find out?

 

[Sonny580]

got 6 HH 60's here,----ALL with rods thru the block! Best cure for that is put a 7 hp Kohler on it and go!!

 

[stevewarner1957]

K series Kohler is the way to go!

 

[stevewarner1957]

Oh, by the way. A Kohler repair kit is a GX series Honda. My 29 year old Horse with the Kohler M8T had an issue with the ignition coil that caused kickback that ruined the recoil. No parts available for the M8T recoil. So I installed a GX270 and really love it