Truss for pole building question..

[chucko]

Jumkman,
If you notice on the news when you see trusses that have failed (or so they say) 99% of the time it was becuase of bracing. I was looking at some pics we have and I could not find one were the truss failed. but sometimes it is possible that the table guy puts in a bad piece of wood. That is why you should inspect your trusses before setting them.

I did see some floor trusses failing one time because the guy delivering blocks unloaded 2 truckloads of block to the second floor right in the middle of the floor system. they were designed for 55 psf ......I think they were a little overloaded. When I got there he was just about to unload the third load but I stoped him.

 

[SteveBenson]

That was to be up to code far a unheated outbuilding. It was done by Paquette Electric. They do great work but aren't exactly cheap. They did a nice job though. Vaporproof flourecent lights, jar lights in the horse stalls, dust proof switches, and that monster fan on a thermostat that keeps it nice and cool in the summer.

>When are you going to join the CT TBN lunch group for a sit down???
When I'm invited /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Junkman]

We have been placing open invitations on TBN since we started to meet. Knowing who your electrician is, I know that you live in the neighborhood. We plan on meeting the second and fourth Wednesday of the month during the winter months since none of us are that busy with tractoring. Probably once a month during the warm months. Can we count on you being there on 28th??? We meet at Gracie's Restaurant, RT 20 East, Sturbridge MA at noon.. If you are not familiar with the area, you can meet me in Woodstock and follow me there...

 

[SteveBenson]

What time of day? I still have to bring home the bacon during the day. I haven't been able to find a way to make a good living off a small farm in CT /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif Sometimes it's better not to make your hobby your job anyways /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Evasive1]

I have to say I agree with the post about going to a lumbar yard. I have built several metal buildings and each one is different per customers request. The lumbar yard will have the trusses engineered for the job you want based on truss spacing, length and pitch. Most discount lumbar yards stock trusses for 2' oc not meant to be placed on pole barns.

The pitch on most metal buildings is relatively low so you can screw your screws into the bottom and top of the truss and still be within the 2' spacing for attaching your metal. As mentioned by several posts once over the 2' spacing you can toe nail a 2x4 in the small space for attaching the metal on the truss it it was not built with them.

For the 16' overhead door an lvl is a little beefy for a pole barn. If you are worried about sagging they make a truss specifically designed for 16' doors at a substantial less expensive price and much lighter making it a far easier install.

You might be surprised how competitive a lumbar yard price for trusses are, especially considering the truss will be engineered for your job. The peace of mind is worth it alone.

Duane /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

 

[mopower440]

Guys, when i went to lowes, the guy got on the phone with the truss builder and told him exactly what i was building and how i was building it and that i wanted to place them on 4 foot centers, one on each post and one in between each post, told them that i wanted to use purlins spaced on 2 foot centers with metal sheathing, 4-12 pitch and 1 foot overhang, the guy told him he could do it, told him the price and then faxed him a truss letter, wich he then gave to me and i had to show it to the building inspector before he issued me the permit, so the truss builder does know what i am needing, but im wondering if i could find out who exactly is that truss manufacturer and go directly to them and get them cheaper? BTW, safety is my first concern with this, not price, otherwise i wouldnt have started this post being worried about the gable end trusses holding a load, im still wondering if im getting this out where you guys can understand what im trying to say, but on the gable ends, there will be no 2x12 truss support, yes, on the ends of the sidewalls there will be and the gable end trusses will sit on them just like the rest, but as far as a 2x12 undernmeath of the whole gable truss, as in over the garage door, there will be none, going from the bottom of the gable walls and up, it will be as follows,: skirt board, 2x4 girt, 2x4girt, 2x4 girt, then bottom cord of truss.. unlike the sidewalls wich will be: skirt board, 2x4 girt, 2x4 girt, 2x4 girt, then 2x12 truss carrier..see what im getting at, will this be fine?

 

[aloha]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( see what im getting at, will this be fine )</font>

Gable end trusses are intended to be supported their full length by the wall below (except the overhang of the eaves). What you describe will be supported only at the side walls, so must be designed not to require the support a wall below would provide. Unless you get an engineer to approve the use of something else, what you are using at the gables should look like the rest of your trusses.

So, no, it would not be fine.

 

[yooperdave]

Well said.

I would use a typical truss anyway just in case an addition was in the future.

Yooper Dave

 

[mopower440]

aloha, thats what iv'e been trying to say, you described it the way i was trying to, just didnt get it out right..lol.., a regular gable end truss is supposed to be supported its full length by the wall below it, like you stated, in my case, the wall wont be able to support the truss because it wont have a 2x12 header, so, if i got regular common trusses and used them at the gable ends, would that be ok and safe?
Here is a pic of one EXACTLY like the way i want to do mine, no header on the gable walls and using a common truss on the gable ends, only difference in the pic and mine is that mine will have a 16 foot door instead of the 9 foot door like in the pic, check out the pic in this link
http://www.imagesofvision.com/dreamhouse/images/09-16-00/P9150287.jpg
or..heres the pic so you dont have to click the link

 

[lamarbur]

We were meeting every other Thursday.. I see you posted next Wednesday's date. Don't matter to me, but let's not confuse the masses there Junkman) Paquette electric,, is that the one out of Southbridge by chance?

 

[SteveBenson]

Paquette is in Pomfret. I live down in Canterbury, just a couple miles from the junction of 169 and 14.

 

[Junkman]

Must have looked at last years calander.... We are going to meet on Thursday..... Thanks for correcting my mistake... I will try not to let it happen again.. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

 

[PineRidge]

I don't think that I heard anyone mention open center truss. Doesn't anyone use them for extra storage in their pole barns? It picked me up a lot of extra storage area that would have otherwise gone wasted.

 

[SteveBenson]

What they are doing in that picture is okay because that truss is the same load bearing trusses they will be using throughout. In fact, it's probably way overkill because they are securing it to the poles in the middle at both the top and bottom chords of the truss. Using those tall pole on both sides of the door makes for a very well braced roof and makes it much safer to put the trusses up. I wish I got the long poles to do that when I did mine. Oh well, there's always next time.

 

[aloha]

mopower440 - that photo looks okay to me.

One thing, though: if you are planning to attach the truss to the posts on either side of the door, I would check with the manufacturer about that and be sure they knew the spacing on the posts. They may say it is no problem, or may say to wait until after the roof is installed and the truss is fully loaded before attaching it, or may say to use an attachment that would allow some up and down movement.

You do not want to support a truss in a location the designer did not know would be supported. Part of what you are paying for is the manufacturer's liability insurance, and you want to be sure that in the event of a problem they cannot claim that your installation differed from their design.

 

[kemartin3]

Chucko,

Thanks for posting the bracing instructions. I've been digging around the web trying to find a free copy of the formal instructions for bracing on a pole building (I think the Truss Institute calls it instruction #HIB98). All I've found so far is a copy of the one for normal 24" spacing like used on a house (HIB91 as memory serves). Do you know if there is much difference and what the differences might be? And do you know if it is common for the truss manufacturer to ship a copy of the proper instructions with the trusses (seems that Truss Institute likes to sell copies to the manufacturers to supply to the consumer).

Thanks,
Kevin

 

[Glenn9643]

A few more:

http://www.stormsurvival.homestead.com/Hurricane_Truss_Bracing.html

http://www.wsitruss.com/HIB.PDF

http://scholar.lib.vt.edu/theses/available/etd-03312000-08240040/unrestricted/etd.pdf

 

[Lazy]

Did lowes tell you what to do for purlins? Don't put them between the trusses with hangers nail them to the top. We call the one between the trusses "KILLER CLEATS" it makes for a very unstble roof system. many people have got killed using them.


Hi that’s the type construction I have. Could you tell me how they kill you? We are going on 10 years and never have had a problem with the building. It is 30x50 and full we need another one should I construct one not using this type construction?

Charlie.

 

[mopower440]

Yes, im nailing the 2x4 purlins on the top of the trusses, not in between them.

 

[CamshaftLF]

Thats the way I did my pole building 8yrs ago. It's 36x48. And finished my sons 24x30 last fall. And they are both 12' high. With 10x10 doors. Plan on putting another one up this summer for my other son. The way you have your trusses in the pic, is the same way I did mine. My building has the over hang and my sons doesn't. You do one pole building and rest are gravy!!!!!